Need 1940 Coupe seat removal advice

[gearheadbill]

For several reasons I need to remove the seat from my 40 coupe. Are the side 'covers' (don't know what the real name is...see photo) removable with the seat in the car? If not, how in the H#$"* does one get at the bolts to R&R the thing? Seems like I need a hand with 9 fingers and arm about 2 inches in diameter to get at the back bolts.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by gearheadbill

For several reasons I need to remove the seat from my 40 coupe. Are the side 'covers' (don't know what the real name is...see photo) removable with the seat in the car? If not, how in the H#$"* does one get at the bolts to R&R the thing? Seems like I need a hand with 9 fingers and arm about 2 inches in diameter to get at the back bolts.

I use a small ratcheting box wrench. To install that bolt, I shove my arm in from the front. Yep, tight fit and yep, I get scraped up but it's the only way I know.

[Ken/Alabama]

It all comes out as a unit after you unbolt it from the floor. Then you have to contend to the bellows that is attached to the backrest to the package tray.

[gearheadbill]

Kube: Do those seat bolts thread into a captured nut, or are they through bolted?

Ken: auxillary seats...no package tray etc..

[gearheadbill]

Kube: Do those seat bolts thread into a captured nut, or are they through bolted?

Ken: auxillary seats...no package tray etc..

[swoopNZ]

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For a 5 window coupe ( lift-up style seat ) they are sleeve type ( captive ) nuts.
3 x 5/16" UNC threads each side from memory.
Best to take the entire seat out and turn it upside to remove them.
Cheers,
Chris.NZ.

[mike42]

When I re-did those panels I took the seat out. It's really not that big of a deal to take out seat and a lot easier too. I also had to un-stick the seat adjuster at the time.

[fortyfords]

A very strong back or two weaker backs.

[47Merc]

I have had the front seat in my 40 Coupe which has jump seats out a few times and getting the bolts out is difficult. Much easier if it is on the hoist with the wheels about 3 feet off the ground and you slide the seat back and forward to get at the bolts.

I also found to physically remove the seat from the car if you are on your own it is easier if you remove the 2 back sections first as it cuts the weight in half. When you have it unbolted, push a small plank across the car underneath the seat supports and then slide the whole lot out the door on the plank.

[fortyfords]

That still sounds like back breaking work!

[Kube]

Originally Posted by gearheadbill

Kube: Do those seat bolts thread into a captured nut, or are they through bolted?

Ken: auxillary seats...no package tray etc..

Caged nuts as you thought.

[FordFanMan]

Thanks for sharing! I plan to remove the seat in my 40 coupe.

[marko39]

if you think they are hard to remove wait to you have to put them back. on my 39 i ran bolts up from bottom for the rear ones and it was easier to get two nuts on than line up bolts.

[Lawson Cox]

This posts got me to thinking about removing the rear seat from my old 48 Chevy coupe for a little "afternoon delight" in my younger days. Precious memories. LOL

[V8 Bob]

It's much easier to take the seat apart before trying to remove the entire assembly, at least with a split back. Remove the seat backs first, one by one, then lift out the bottom. What's left is the bare frame and mounts with easy access to the bolts by running the adjusters back and forth. Same holds true for installation, just reverse the order.