GearRat's '35

[GearRat]

Hey Guys!

I'm making this my official project blog for the 1935 5 window coupe we inherited from my Grandfather. Yesterday we removed the engine to make sure we get it cleaned out right, and to have better access to other matters that need attention. Anywhere oil had settled, oil pan, casting indentations, etc., the oil had become coal like. I'm not sure if in my grandfather's old age he had used some kind of additive that caused this, but we are tending to it as best we can. Carburetor cleaner seems to do the trick, turning the substance back into an oil like consistency. Oil pan is clean and painted, and lifter galley cleaned out as well.

I'm not completely sure what all these casting numbers on the block mean, so if anyone has some insight I'm very interested in knowing more of this car's history.

Thank you,

-Garrett

[Styles]

Good luck with your project. Having a car that's been handed down through the family makes it that much more special.

[36tbird]

Along with the later engine, looks like you got a later steering box. Is the light switch still on the wheel center? I have a complete '39 column in your neck of the woods if not.

And oh, please take the engine off that stand immediately. Do a search about flathead bell housings breaking for an explanation why.

[ken ct]

Originally Posted by GearRat

Hey Guys!

I'm making this my official project blog for the 1935 5 window coupe we inherited from my Grandfather. Yesterday we removed the engine to make sure we get it cleaned out right, and to have better access to other matters that need attention. Anywhere oil had settled, oil pan, casting indentations, etc., the oil had become coal like. I'm not sure if in my grandfather's old age he had used some kind of additive that caused this, but we are tending to it as best we can. Carburetor cleaner seems to do the trick, turning the substance back into an oil like consistency. Oil pan is clean and painted, and lifter galley cleaned out as well.

I'm not completely sure what all these casting numbers on the block mean, so if anyone has some insight I'm very interested in knowing more of this car's history.

Thank you,

-Garrett

You have a 42-48 engine their not a 35. Yea also get it off that stand,i see the chains but to work on it you must remove the picker and ALL the weight is on the bell bolts,known to break.Watch your toes. ken ct.

[VeryTangled]

Howdy GearRat, Thanks for starting the thread and posting the photos.

Got any 'before' pictures of the oil pan? Any estimate of the volume of the gunk that was in the pan, 1/2 cup, etc? (Collecting data on the theory that solids in the pan and other places are one of the reasons people say 5qts of oil makes their dipsticks read high.)

-VT/JeffH

[GearRat]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the warning about the bell housing. I'll definitely keep the hoist attached and take more load off of the bell housing. I knew the engine wasn't a '35 but I didn't know exactly what year it was. The steering gear being different is intriguing, my dad said my grandpa had to do some kind of mod to get rid of a lot of play in the steering.

Originally Posted by VeryTangled

Howdy GearRat, Thanks for starting the thread and posting the photos.

Got any 'before' pictures of the oil pan? Any estimate of the volume of the gunk that was in the pan, 1/2 cup, etc? (Collecting data on the theory that solids in the pan and other places are one of the reasons people say 5qts of oil makes their dipsticks read high.)

-VT/JeffH

Yes, here are some before photos of the pan. Note: all the stuff you see in the pan is solid, but i'm not sure of the amount of junk. I'm sure it would skew oil readings though.

Also, have a question. How do I go about removing the oil pump?

-Garrett

[JM 35 Sedan]

Good idea on doing a project blog so you can keep everthing in one thread. Others who make many posts on the same project make it difficult to follow what they have done or have not done. The 59 series engines are dated '45-'48 in US passenger car production. As someone else mentioned, the 59 blocks with 3-1/16" bores were supplied as service replacements for earlier 24 stud engines. Just as the '37 blocks were supplied as service replacements for the earlier 21 stud engines. The 59 on top of the bell and the numbers/letters cast in heads are the only thing that means anything to most of us today. The steering box is '37-'48 which usually steers much better than earlier boxes because of the rolling sector gear design. The lifter valley looks clean, wonder what you used to clean that? You could make some kind of support for the front of the engine on that stand but would be better to use an exhaust manifold outlet mounting adaptor. The crud buildup like you have in the bottom of your pan is probably why there are so mamy debates here on how many quarts of oil these engines will actually hold based on dip stick readings. Keep posting progress with pictures. Looking forward to helping you with any answers to your questions that I can provide.

[smtichy]

Hi GearRat,

John beat me to the punch. I've been researching my casting numbers and have run across a lot of info. The following site has some info on the number reference to year.
http://www.telusplanet.net/public/bboogaar/engine.htm
Your engine looks to be a '45, or at least the heads with "59A" and the following numbers usually indicate a part number.

Looks like you have a fun project, cool to be handed down in the family and hope you get a chance to pass it on eventually.

Good Luck!

[GearRat]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

The lifter valley looks clean, wonder what you used to clean that?

I used a lot of carb cleaner to liquefy the nasty gunk, let it sit and dry out, and then took the gunk out in manageable chunks. Then more carb cleaner, some rags to get the smaller stuff, and then the air gun to blow the rest of it out.

Just got the oil pump out, it was stuck in there pretty good. More of that gunky stuff to be cleaned, but after that the engine is close to being put back together.

Thanks Guys!

-Garrett

[G32]

GearRat: Before you put the 59 back together--can make some checks ?

Confirm that it's a 3 3/16 bore - oversize?
Read con rod part #s ---- trying to confirm rod journals are 2.139 " , not 2"

That 12-1-1948 casting date on the head makes me think replacement part rather
than factory. If a replacement engine from parts it could be a 221 ci "59" like
myself and others have found

Just trying to confirm what you have.
Thanks
Gene Tulsa

[G32]

GearRat: Con rod # to confirm the 100 Hp 59 crankshaft is 99A or 29A ( may
be stamped 99A).
90 hp 221 crank is 91A or 21A { may be stamped 91A}
Enjoy 35!
Gene Tulsa

[Ol' Ron]

It also looks like it has valve rotators, witch wasn't available until late 51. someone with better eye sight might take alook.

[GearRat]

Originally Posted by G32

GearRat: Con rod # to confirm the 100 Hp 59 crankshaft is 99A or 29A ( may
be stamped 99A).
90 hp 221 crank is 91A or 21A { may be stamped 91A}
Enjoy 35!
Gene Tulsa

Hey Gene,

The # I found on the rod ends was 99, but i'm not sure if there was an "A" by them or a triangle. The bore from what I measured was around 3.218", mind you that probably isn't very accurate, but it is a larger bore. My grandfather had this engine rebuilt in the 1980's so chances are there were a few up-grades like valve rotators and such.

-Garrett

[HELENT]

At this point i think you should clean the block just me

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

OL,Ron I noticed those rotor valve when I first looked at the pic. I was going to say something about but you beat me to it. The engine has been rebuilt, The valve train is late 51-2-3 the bore 3. 218 is .030 over std. Gene, good luck cleaning the engine. To me I couldn't stand not stripping the engine and having the block backed or a good cleaning tank job and make sure the water jacket is cleaned out good. Walt

[harley]

#7 exhaust valve rotator ?

[Ol' Ron]

Walt, I wasn't sure, glad you checked it out. I met a driend of yours from North Vermont. Howard. He picked up a steel bell housing for me and dropped it off this morning. Also showed me his SBC distributor built by Charley NY. Really nice unit. Bubba has some real competition there.

[GearRat]

Hey Guys!

Progress has been slow, but the engine is coming along. Just a few more things to take care of and then we can prepare to get the engine back in place.

Question: This car looks to be running a 9" clutch. Do any of ya'll have part numbers for the disc and pressure plate you're running? And where do you recommend buying the parts for this clutch?

Thank you,

-Garrett

[oldskool]

fort wayne clutch has the best clutch assemblys...usa the rest sell china garbage

[JM 35 Sedan]

You could send your clutch & pressure plate as cores to Fort Wayne Clutch and have them rebuild those parts. Not that expensive for the peace of mind knowing you have quality parts made in the USA.

[GearRat]

Hello all,

Long time no see! We recently started working on the '35 again. The engine fired up for the first time in at least 20 years so we are excited about that (link to video below). I've currently been working on rebuilding the fuel pump and carb. So far the fuel pump is rebuilt and only the carburetor remains. Question though.... We got Berryman chem-dip and set the carb in there to clean but, we left it in there and were busy taking care of other obligations. So it has sat for about a week and a half in the cleaning solution and now it has a flat light gray finish. Is this bad?

Thank you,

GearRat

https://youtu.be/U_S1M3e_Ad0

[GearRat]

Fuel pump before and after...

[jmaotto]

Looks like two different fuel pumps.

[GearRat]

Didn't capture a before photo, but there was another pump in the trunk that looked very identical to its prior condition.

[COE Dan]

Originally Posted by GearRat

Hello all,

Long time no see! We recently started working on the '35 again. The engine fired up for the first time in at least 20 years so we are excited about that (link to video below). I've currently been working on rebuilding the fuel pump and carb. So far the fuel pump is rebuilt and only the carburetor remains. Question though.... We got Berryman chem-dip and set the carb in there to clean but, we left it in there and were busy taking care of other obligations. So it has sat for about a week and a half in the cleaning solution and now it has a flat light gray finish. Is this bad?

Thank you,

GearRat


https://youtu.be/U_S1M3e_Ad0

You'll find that many (most) original carbs are a dull gray now as the survivors have been cleaned using chemical dips (of various types) over the years. Mine are all that way and it doesn't appear to affect performance. If you're looking for a concours level look, there many be folks who can restore the original finish. Others may know more.

[GearRat]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Hey there guys!

Trying to track down a radiator for the '35 is a pretty difficult task. Is there a company that you all would recommend as far as getting a new radiator? I cant seem to find any if at all radiators for this car.

Thank you,

-GearRat

[Phil Gillespie]

Look at Swap Section at present there are some 35 and 36 radiators for sale.
Could require work?
Phil NZ

[PeterC]

Originally Posted by GearRat

Hey there guys!

Trying to track down a radiator for the '35 is a pretty difficult task. Is there a company that you all would recommend as far as getting a new radiator? I cant seem to find any if at all radiators for this car.

Thank you,

-GearRat

Original radiators are out there .. I sold two nice ones in the past - check ebay - put a wanted ad on this site - also some of the forum members specialize in parts for the 35 and may have some to sell.

[Tinker]

Brass works isn't cheap but have good reviews. A used swap radiator might need a recore. Recores aren't cheap either. Best to get the best radiator you can afford to get, it'll be worth it in the long run.

http://www.thebrassworks.net/shop/Re...6b9ada5829ec0d

[Randy in ca]

Note that there are two styles of the '35 radiator - these are both shown on the Brassworks link. Your body appears to be an early version but you may want to post a few pictures of the radiator rod firewall brackets if you're not sure.

[tiquer]

Originally Posted by GearRat

Hello all,

Long time no see! We recently started working on the '35 again. The engine fired up for the first time in at least 20 years so we are excited about that (link to video below). I've currently been working on rebuilding the fuel pump and carb. So far the fuel pump is rebuilt and only the carburetor remains. Question though.... We got Berryman chem-dip and set the carb in there to clean but, we left it in there and were busy taking care of other obligations. So it has sat for about a week and a half in the cleaning solution and now it has a flat light gray finish. Is this bad?

Thank you,

GearRat

https://youtu.be/U_S1M3e_Ad0

I havw used Pinesol to clean my carbs and fuel pumps and rinced them off in a good cleaning solvent it worked very well

[GearRat]

Not an expert on flathead v8's so I'd appreciate feedback on how ours is idling. Adjusted the idle screws a bit as the plugs were pretty sooty. We are also running with open manifolds right now so any noises are amplified.

Here's the link to see the video: https://youtu.be/aO0fNHoUrU0

Thank you!

[russcc]

Fort Wayne is the way to go. Quick turnaround, excellent service. I just bought a Aetna throw out bearing from them, Made in the USA in Franklin Park IL. The best there is.

[rotorwrench]

It doesn't sound too bad to me. Manifolds and exhaust should improve performance a bit. They need that for proper scavenging.

I bet your a happy camper to have it running again. You've been at it a while.