What is the best quality ignition points?

[Ed in Maine]

When I purchased my Victoria I went through everything. The first job was an inspection of the distributer and a new set of points and condenser from NAPA. They cost about $30.00. I am using the modern upper distributer plate with 1957 Ford points and condenser. Now, 1600 miles later, the points rubbing block is at the point that no further adjustment for wear is possible. The mounting screw is at the edge of the oval hole. The gap is 0.019. The car is running fine but the points are at the end of their useful life.

I remember back in the sixties when you could get 4000 to 5000 miles on a tune up. What is everyone using that could get me at least 2000 to3000 miles on my Model A? This would get me through the touring season. Thanks for your help, Ed

[alexiskai]

Seems like maybe a problem with the distributor cam? Too rough or insufficient lube?

[rotorwrench]

Echlin points sold by NAPA were the best for a long time. Standard Motor parts used to be good but have fallen short in the modern era. Standard now owns Echlin so I don't know if they are what they used to be either. Finding old NOS points prior to 1975 or so would be relatively safe but condensers not so much. They don't age well in a lot of cases.

Polish and lube your cam or replace it if it's rough in any way. I've noticed that the plastic rub blocks on some points don't hold up well and especially if the cam isn't smooth. Some points have the phenolic plastic wear block but have poor point contacts. It's hard to get a winner now days. Buying three to get one good one is just not good at all.

[mcgarrett]

Due to that exact problem, I switched back to the original style Model A points with the phenolic rubbing block. Buy the best ones you can from the Model A suppliers. They seem to be more durable and point adjustments are more precise.

[modela4shane]

Has anyone used the NU-REX upper plate with their NU-REX brand of modern points? They claim to have the best points on the market, points number NN-53 for $9.75 and condenser NN-54 for $9.95. I have never used NU-REX parts before, just curious.

[J Franklin]

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Polish the cam, give it some cam grease and make sure the spring tension isn't too strong.
I think that would make things last longer.

[lrf]

I'm not bragging but I just bought nos Ford points in the original box and FoMoCo points set (from the 1960's) at a local Model A club swap meet and at $15. each set. There are still "things" out there. I'd suggest get on the Want List in this forum. There are members here that can help you. Happiest of Holidays to ALL! LRF

[J Franklin]

If your points are NOS, NORS, or china, still address the cam finish and cam lube for long life.

[CWPASADENA]

Originally Posted by alexiskai

Seems like maybe a problem with the distributor cam? Too rough or insufficient lube?

I agree,

I have had just one set of modern points running in my tour car for more than 18 K miles and they are still just fine. I do not know where I got them but I think they will go well past 20 K miles without a problem. However, my other 2 Model A's have original style points. Much easier to deal with.

Chris W.

[Bruce of MN]

Be sure and note this:

Originally Posted by Ed in Maine

I am using the modern upper distributer plate with 1957 Ford points and condenser.

[ndnchf]

When I rebuilt my distributor last year, I first polished the new cam in the lathe. The new cams are not very well polished and need it, otherwise they will eat point rubbing blocks. Mother's Aluminum Polish brings it to a mirror finish.

[nkaminar]

Polish and grease is important. The vendors sell grease for the cam.

I found Blue Streak points and condensors to be the best quality available for modern configurations. You can get them from the local auto parts dealers or order from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Moto.../dp/B006RAAC46

[rotorwrench]

Old Standard Motor Parts "Blue Streak" were all good but I've had the point contact come off on more moderns sets. If they scrimp on one little thing than the whole thing can be ruined by that. Old NOS sets are good.

The current reproduction model A sets can be problematic. I've seen the point arms that are too short to properly center the contacts without filing the holes out for more adjustment of the stationary block. One outfit even started making an offset stationary point block to match up with the bad point arms. In other words, the NOS Ford points won't work with it due to the arm being too long. What's next with all this crap. Something that used to be so easy is now complicated. Condensers are a whole other hair pulling problem. So far the A&L blow proof units are still seemingly good but who knows what the future will bring.

[Rob Doe]

Originally Posted by modela4shane

Has anyone used the NU-REX upper plate with their NU-REX brand of modern points? They claim to have the best points on the market, points number NN-53 for $9.75 and condenser NN-54 for $9.95. I have never used NU-REX parts before, just curious.

I'm running the Nu Rex modern upper plate with their points and condenser. I use Lubricam grease. The distributor cam was from Brattons and came in one of their repro distributors. I've checked the points gap many times but only adjusted them once in 8000 miles.

[nkaminar]

If you have the original distributor, the original points and condensor, manufactured by Ford, will last many thousands of miles.

[katy]

Originally Posted by ndnchf

When I rebuilt my distributor last year, I first polished the new cam in the lathe. The new cams are not very well polished and need it, otherwise they will eat point rubbing blocks. Mother's Aluminum Polish brings it to a mirror finish.

I used crocus cloth to polish one, worked well.

[ndnchf]

FWIW - I rebuilt this distributor with original Ford script points and a new burnout proof condenser. It's the perfect combination.

[Joe B.]

Since you have the more modern points, this could be relevant. I needed points for my recently acquired '50 so as to get rid of the electronic ignition and ordered several from various places.

Two sets from ebay went back because they were not as pictured in the ad. The ad pictured high end points with the felt rub strip, brass nuts, etc, the ones that shipped were today's generic.

Between Echlin, Standard, etc., the best quality to my eye are the "United" brand from Rock Auto which are actually cheaper than the "Standard".

[mcgarrett]

ndnchf,
I'm with you - the original point sets have proven themselves to be quality parts and endure the test of time. Henry's boys knew what they were doing when they made them. I know the originals are getting harder to find, but I buy them every chance I get. I think some of the reproductions are close to the same quality as genuine FoMoCo. Besides being a quality part, the original design points are easier to adjust and yield a more precise adjustment, in my opinion.

[Benson]

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