The Ford Barn

oliverguy · 03-13-2013, 09:25 PM

I'm putting a set of used ac brakes on my 23 roadster. I'm having difficulty getting the all thread through the backing plate hole and the band compressed enough so I can get the all thread through and attached through the eyelet on the opposite side of the band. On the surface this doesn't look complicated but I've been fighting these things for the last few nights and I'm not getting anywhere. anyone have any hints to put these on? Also any pictures of them installed? They look Colette but came with no instructions

Jack Innes · 03-13-2013, 09:37 PM

The following copy of an original AC instruction sheet was posted on the MTFCA site a while back;

DIRECTIONS FOR INSTALLING BRAKES

Remove rear wheels and clean all paint from drum surface. If drum is out-of-round, or badly rust-pitted, replace it.

Remove Lock Nut on the parking brake support bolt; also the lower nut holding the rear radius rod to rear axle. Drive out Radius Rod bolt and substitute longer on which comes with Brakes. Do not remove Radius Rod as the Brake Bracket fits over this.

Install brakes by slipping unit under lower edge of Backing Plate. (Do not dismantle Brake Assembly). Tighten nuts and slip wheels on to check alignment of Brakes. Due to differences in the Ford Rear Axle Castings, it is sometimes necessary to place thin washers as shims between the Backing Plate and the A-C brake Bracket to obtain correct alignment, and so that the Brake Band will track true on the drum. . . This is very important.

Installing Linkage

Brake pedal should have about five (5) inches of travel before hitting floor boards to give the correct leverage.
1. Take the pedal clamp bracket and fasten it to the angled portion of the brake pedal so that the clevis hole is at the top.
2. Install walking beam support around the drive shaft tube directly behind where the universal joint housing casting meets the drive shaft tubing. This Flange will prevent the supports from creeping when the brakes are applied.
3. Install linkage rod from brake pedal to the upper hole in the walking beam, adjusting so that the walking beam has a slight pitch to the rear when brake pedal is released. On 1921-25 Fords, this must be set so as not to hit the running board bracket when the brakes are applied.
4. Fasten turnbuckle and equalizer to the next lower hole in the walking beam.
5. Feed the cable through the equalizer and back through the activating lever on the rear brake. Tighten securely with the set screw. Install return springs from the lever arm to rear spring perches. If car is equipped with accessory shock absorbers, springs will have to be improvised.
6. Adjust turnbuckle until cable is snug.
7. Adjust brakes so there is no drag when released. When lining is new, it will take a day or two to wear down the high spots.

IMPORTANT:

1. A common problem with Model T’s is worn axle shaft tapers which allow the wheel to (sit) in too far. If the inside edge of the brake drum extends past the backing plate, it will be necessary to make a shim for the axle taper to bring the drum to the correct position. A piece of tin from an old can is fine for this.
2. It is advisable to remove the stock Ford transmission Brake Band tor educe drag.
3. Good rear axle seals are a MUST. Grease or Oil will ruin the Brake lining in a very short time. WE RECOMMEND OUR REAR AXEL SEALS!
4. Tighten all jam nuts on the linkage securely or the threads will quickly strip out of the clevises and turnbuckles.

oliverguy · 03-14-2013, 04:53 AM

Yes sorry should have been more clear. I've seen that. It goes through everything except how to get the brake band attached. I have the baking plate part attached already. My problem is the band attachment. I've seen a picture on the web where they took the wheel off maybe that's the way to do it

redmodelt · 03-14-2013, 10:46 AM

Yes, you should have the wheel(s) off. If you try putting the band on over everything you could end up bending the band out of shape. You want to keep the band as round as possible.

oliverguy · 03-20-2013, 02:50 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by redmodelt

Yes, you should have the wheel(s) off. If you try putting the band on over everything you could end up bending the band out of shape. You want to keep the band as round as possible.

Thanks, they went right on! Now all I have to do is get the damn things adjusted.

03-13-2013, 09:25 PM	#1
oliverguy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Reading PA Posts: 241	AC brake help I'm putting a set of used ac brakes on my 23 roadster. I'm having difficulty getting the all thread through the backing plate hole and the band compressed enough so I can get the all thread through and attached through the eyelet on the opposite side of the band. On the surface this doesn't look complicated but I've been fighting these things for the last few nights and I'm not getting anywhere. anyone have any hints to put these on? Also any pictures of them installed? They look Colette but came with no instructions

03-13-2013, 09:37 PM	#2
Jack Innes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Brooklin, Ontario Posts: 704	Re: AC brake help The following copy of an original AC instruction sheet was posted on the MTFCA site a while back; DIRECTIONS FOR INSTALLING BRAKES Remove rear wheels and clean all paint from drum surface. If drum is out-of-round, or badly rust-pitted, replace it. Remove Lock Nut on the parking brake support bolt; also the lower nut holding the rear radius rod to rear axle. Drive out Radius Rod bolt and substitute longer on which comes with Brakes. Do not remove Radius Rod as the Brake Bracket fits over this. Install brakes by slipping unit under lower edge of Backing Plate. (Do not dismantle Brake Assembly). Tighten nuts and slip wheels on to check alignment of Brakes. Due to differences in the Ford Rear Axle Castings, it is sometimes necessary to place thin washers as shims between the Backing Plate and the A-C brake Bracket to obtain correct alignment, and so that the Brake Band will track true on the drum. . . This is very important. Installing Linkage Brake pedal should have about five (5) inches of travel before hitting floor boards to give the correct leverage. 1. Take the pedal clamp bracket and fasten it to the angled portion of the brake pedal so that the clevis hole is at the top. 2. Install walking beam support around the drive shaft tube directly behind where the universal joint housing casting meets the drive shaft tubing. This Flange will prevent the supports from creeping when the brakes are applied. 3. Install linkage rod from brake pedal to the upper hole in the walking beam, adjusting so that the walking beam has a slight pitch to the rear when brake pedal is released. On 1921-25 Fords, this must be set so as not to hit the running board bracket when the brakes are applied. 4. Fasten turnbuckle and equalizer to the next lower hole in the walking beam. 5. Feed the cable through the equalizer and back through the activating lever on the rear brake. Tighten securely with the set screw. Install return springs from the lever arm to rear spring perches. If car is equipped with accessory shock absorbers, springs will have to be improvised. 6. Adjust turnbuckle until cable is snug. 7. Adjust brakes so there is no drag when released. When lining is new, it will take a day or two to wear down the high spots. IMPORTANT: 1. A common problem with Model T’s is worn axle shaft tapers which allow the wheel to (sit) in too far. If the inside edge of the brake drum extends past the backing plate, it will be necessary to make a shim for the axle taper to bring the drum to the correct position. A piece of tin from an old can is fine for this. 2. It is advisable to remove the stock Ford transmission Brake Band tor educe drag. 3. Good rear axle seals are a MUST. Grease or Oil will ruin the Brake lining in a very short time. WE RECOMMEND OUR REAR AXEL SEALS! 4. Tighten all jam nuts on the linkage securely or the threads will quickly strip out of the clevises and turnbuckles. __________________ Jack Innes, Brooklin, Ontario Last edited by Jack Innes; 03-20-2013 at 04:18 PM.

03-14-2013, 04:53 AM	#3
oliverguy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Reading PA Posts: 241	Re: AC brake help Yes sorry should have been more clear. I've seen that. It goes through everything except how to get the brake band attached. I have the baking plate part attached already. My problem is the band attachment. I've seen a picture on the web where they took the wheel off maybe that's the way to do it

03-14-2013, 10:46 AM	#4
redmodelt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland OR Posts: 6,340	Re: AC brake help Yes, you should have the wheel(s) off. If you try putting the band on over everything you could end up bending the band out of shape. You want to keep the band as round as possible.