How did you make your 1934 or 1936 Ford coupe more driver-friendly?

[Ron Pilger]

I'm not talking about doing a Chevy engine swap, tilt steering or power windows....I'm thinking of things like a slightly later steering column, improved flathead, rear end gearing, transmission surgery, better braking, one less leaf spring in the front, better door lock closure system. 'Minor tweaks which would definitely knock a Coupe out of a judging competition but preserve the interior and exterior look of the car, allow for longer, somewhat faster drives and allow one to be safer while on the road. I'm interested in your decisions, final choices and how complex the modification turned out to be. Stories of regret also welcome. Thanks in advance. I look forward to reading about how you improved your car.

[Brian]

radial tires will transform an old Ford.

[19Fordy]

Minor tweaks can cost major dollars. The cost of modifying your present car may surprise you to the point that you might want to consider selling your coupe and buying one that has more of the features you want. Might save you money and time. Of course, if you do the work yourself, you save lots of dough. Shop rates now-a-days are pretty high.

[Lawson Cox]

If you want it to drive like a modern car, sell it and buy a modern car. Make all these changes and it is no longer a vintage car. Make up your mind.

[Kahuna]

Ron
I have a 32 Ford Tudor sedan. It's flathead powered.
Some of the changes I have made:
Replaced the 13:1 steering ratio to 15:1
Added Lincoln hydraulic brakes.
Added a 4 speed trans and an Overdrive behind that.
Changed to tubeless radial tires
Changed to 12 volts
Added electronic ignition
Unless you take the time to look under the car, or in the engine compartment, there isn't anything that looks non-stock.(well, maybe the dropped axle)
Just a few things that I thought would make the car safer/more reliable/easier to drive.
Jim

[V8COOPMAN]

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Originally Posted by Kahuna

Ron
I have a 32 Ford Tudor sedan. It's flathead powered.
Some of the changes I have made:
Replaced the 13:1 steering ratio to 15:1
Added Lincoln hydraulic brakes.
Added a 4 speed trans and an Overdrive behind that.
Changed to tubeless radial tires
Changed to 12 volts
Added electronic ignition
Unless you take the time to look under the car, or in the engine compartment, there isn't anything that looks non-stock.(well, maybe the dropped axle)
Just a few things that I thought would make the car safer/more reliable/easier to drive.
Jim

Hey Kahuna.......It's really refreshing any more when a guy like yourself can read a legitimate request from a guy like that of the original poster (Ron Pilger) above. You truly took a moment to understand and evaluate that he WAS NOT asking for a car that "drives like a MODERN car". I just don't get it when someone like another of the posters above has to reply with some "cute" (NOT really) remark about buying a "NEW" car! We could all use a few more people (like you) that still participate in the "real world". DD

[Ken Bull]

I had Radial tires on my 1940 Ford PU that I drove for 19 years. I went back to Bias ply for my 36 to get the pie crust & original look I desired. The next time I need tires -- they will be Radial. Noticeable better handling.

[Mart]

I've never driven a stock 33 or 34 coupe, but have driven my mildly modified 33 5w coupe. I only have one old to new comparison, and that is the steering. I changed from (admittedly not rebuilt) old stock steering to a custom setup based on 37-48 steering and it really improved the driveability of the car. This is still side steer, with the pitman arm pointing down like stock. A custom adjustable drag link to allow fine tuning also paid dividends. The car does steer really well.

I run 12V, electronic ignition (with points) and tube shocks. All of which work really well. I don't have a before situation to compare against, though.

On my roadster I have just fitted a set of 3.54 gears. I would imagine the 33 coupe would benefit from such a change too.

A 33 coupe is a nice driving car, based on my own limited experience.

Mart.

[dude]

look at the things you don't like ,reliability , brakes ,steering,ride . all those things can be improved on. go after those areas. The Ford will ever have the ride and comfort of a Caddy.

[JSeery]

Most of the changes I like revolve around the F1 & F100. Ford had made a lot of upgrades over the years that can be retro fitted onto the earlier models. I like and use the F1 steering and F1/F100 self energizing brakes. A generator with a voltage regulator is nice. I tend to like the type of mods/upgrades that were being made in the late 40s and early 50s (most likely because I grew up with them! )

[Ron Pilger]

For the most part these are the kinds of answers I had hoped to receive. I'm definitely not after a "modern" car (or a street rod)- that's why i posed the original question on Fordbarn and not the HAMB. If i feel the need to stay in 2017, I drive a 2013 Lincoln. The ONLY change made to my 34 Cabriolet is 3:54 gears in the rear end. Don't even have seat bolts - some would call me a purist - others an idiot, I'm sure. Now, i'm working on a 34 3 window and a 36 3 window. I will be doing minor mechanical upgrades to one or both, including a non-babbitt flathead. I have a pair of LB blocks and also a couple of 59 a engines. Can't decide which way to go. As you probably guessed, I wouldn't dream of cutting a firewall or boxing a frame ( or chopping a roof or other radical change to these beautiful old achievements of art) so i'm leaning towards the original looking LB in the 34 Coupe. I do appreciate additional thought-provoking positive responses to my original query.

[mrtexas]

"later steering column, improved flathead, rear end gearing, transmission surgery, better braking, one less leaf spring in the front"

I put in a 38 steering column
40 wheels
Front disc brakes and MT products rear Bendix brakes
Rear tube shocks
39 pedal set
Dual corvette master cylinder
37 flathead
40 rear motor mounts
Mitchell overdrive
12 volts
electric fuel pump
Halogen front headlights/LED rear head lights
12v GM alternator
Later model intake manifold to fit the alternator
Tinted windshield
Crab distributor with electronic ignition and modern plug wires
Photo process woodgrained dash
LED temperature gauge
Stainless steel single exhaust
Drake running boards
Stainless steel wood screws(major expense for a woodie)
Electronic turn signals controlled by a microswitch
Dual Mighty wiper electric windshield wipers

http://mrtexascitrus.weebly.com/more36wood.html

https://sites.google.com/site/mrtexa...36fordupgrades

[JSeery]

To keep going, I would certainly add dual tail lights as a minimum and would strongly consider turn signials and a thrid rear window brake light. Also front parking lights / turn signals.

[Tinker]

I put the Mitchell overdrive on my 38 truck 3.78 gears. Really made a difference on driving at hwy speeds. Plus it's truly a bolt on that doesn't destroy anything. (but you have 3.54 gears). 39 pedals and 40s backing plates. New king pins fit properly and all the shackles and rod ends replaced. I'm happy with its ride-ability now.

Plan to do the kingpins and rod ends on my 36 also. Already has 39 pedals and plates.

[Phil Gillespie]

Had a 34 Deluxe coupe so it already had the twin tail lights.
Got a halogen light kit to swap out for brighter lights, never got around to fitting.
Fitted a 6 v electric wiper motor, this was a good move.
Engine and gearbox were good but fitted a rebulit distributor and a new Stromberg 97.
Sttering box was in good order nice and tight, no wander.
Then had Flathead Teds floaters fitted, these also wer a good move as brakes were great.
Didnt change out the cross ply tyres as had just brought a set in witth the car.
These would be next on the list.
In my opinion this gave the car the relabity factor and was fun to drive.
Always seem to find the little things like rattle elinination to play with nothing major after above was done.
Phil NZ

[Dave/Green Bay]

Ron On my 35 Fordor.

39 Steering Box
40 Front sway bar
39 Pedal assembly with Master
40 Ford brakes
Early Columbia
Electric wiper
Working on the 42 to 48 rear sway bar and turn signals.
Still not on the road. But things are getting close
Dave/Green Bay

[jimTN]

Ted's floaters=good brakes
15-1 steering gear worm and sector+ shorten pitman arm 3/4 to 1"
11A advance in dist.
bore holes under carb 1/16 larger
Have heads cut thirty thousands (check first without head gasket for clearance)
Add pressure valve to overflow and rubber gasket under rad cap
Columbia on top of 4:11
clutch disc with springs in it
Master disconnect battery switch
Under floor at rear aux elec fuel pump for vapor lock and priming system

These are all mods that do not alter original looks.

[slowforty]

Also one of the new rear sway bar kits work wonders.

[drolston]

To me, the biggest component of drive-ability is reliability.

Probably the most common reliability issue is overheating. Many threads on this forum address this issue.

Next is fuel starvation from a failing mechanical pump or vapor lock on modern fuel. Put in a electrical pump near the tank; one that does not impede flow when off or failed. Use it to prime the carb after sitting, or when the mechanical pump is weak or vapor locked.

Then comes flooding or running rich from too high fuel pressure. By all means, put a pressure regulator between the fuel pump and carb, with a pressure gauge so you know what the pressure actually is.

Nest on the list of reasons to raise the hood is weak spark. On that score, I would go with Pertronix ignition and a matching coil to eliminate the aggravation of points wearing or crappy condensers causing points to burn. No more roadside tinkering with the distributor to make it home. It just keeps going and going without adjustment. I have never had one fail, but it eventually will, so I carry a spare module.

Safety enhancement would be the next priority. If your are going to drive at speeds over 50, you should probably convert to hydraulic brakes of the self-energizing variety (Bendix / Lincoln). Given the propensity of Ford doors to pop open under any kind of stress, I would put in lap belts. It is nothing to be ashamed of; real men wear seat belts. Just tell those that sneer that you use them to hold yourself in the driver's seat while hanging corners in a road race.

Then there is "effort/comfort". The '34 steering box design is notoriously stiff, even when not worn and properly adjusted. The design improved in subsequent years (I forget which), and many '34s have been converted to make steering easier.

Radial tires are a big plus in safety and comfort.

Have fun; keep us posted.

[Lawrie]

We do a lot of miles in our 33,basically stock,still 6v,but with rebuilt coil,
still mech brakes ,but with floaters fitted.still cross ply tyres,
the one thing thats made a BIG difference to the driveability was fitting rebuilt original shocks,
engine is a 39 99a with a bit more capacity,we do a lot of towing.
stock 3 speed trans, 3.78 rear gears,will run at 55mph towing and 60mph all day.
Just done about 7000ks in it towing,would have no problems doing another 7000.

Have also a stock 34 3w,with a 36 221 engine, 3.54 rear,only difference from stock is blinkers.
still nice to drive
Lawrie