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Old 12-13-2020, 01:33 PM   #41
billybronco1
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

So a little more on the brake situation. I feel I can't get the adjustment on the wedge right until I get the proper adjusting tool. An open end wrench will only tighten them so much, then slips off and I can't get the last click to go.

Right now it pulls to the left a little when I hit them quickly, does that mean I need to tighten up the right?

Also as someone suggested check the temperature on the drums. The fronts are running cooler than the rears. 95 on front 125 on rear. Are the fronts suppose to do most the stopping or should everything be equal? I would think the fronts would be a higher temp if they are doing most the stopping.

I hope I connected the rods right. I first tightened up all the wedges so I had about the same drag on each wheel. Then I hooked up the rods by pushing the lever back about 1/32" (which is nothing) in the release direction, not to apply anymore drag on the drum.
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Old 12-13-2020, 02:30 PM   #42
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

Yes, just like the rear brakes, both shoes will move outward at the bottom when the brake pedal is depressed. That's the function of the wedge 68-2050 shown in #19, namely to force the rollers at the bottom of the brake shoes outward taking the brake shoes with them.


A 7/16" eight point socket is a good substitute for one of the original special purpose adjusting wrenches.
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Old 12-13-2020, 06:02 PM   #43
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

Hi Everyone. Here's pics I found of something similar to what I think was commonly used in the day like DavidG mentions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by billybronco1 View Post
Right now it pulls to the left a little when I hit them quickly, does that mean I need to tighten up the right?
Reduce braking power on the side that it pulls towards.



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File Type: jpg 2.jpg (17.3 KB, 188 views)
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Old 12-13-2020, 06:08 PM   #44
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

I like the idea of the 7/16 eight point but the wrench attached here seems like it would do the job well.
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Old 12-13-2020, 07:16 PM   #45
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

Beware of a wrench such as in your illustration that only has four points. There are lots of things in the way that will limit your ability to make complete 90 degree rotations with such a wrench, especially in the front of the car. An eight point socket and the eight point wrenches shown in Jeff's photos only require a 45 degree rotation before you can again engage the brake adjusting stud.
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Old 12-13-2020, 07:45 PM   #46
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

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Good point I will try the socket in the spring car is put away for the winter.

But, can someone comment on my other questions on the left pull and how I adjusted the brakes? Thanks.
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Old 12-13-2020, 07:57 PM   #47
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

Jeff did; see the sentence above the photos in #43.
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Old 12-13-2020, 11:01 PM   #48
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

Hi Everyone, Hopefully getting these into this thread will help.











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Old 12-14-2020, 09:52 AM   #49
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

My 5 cents make sure there is NO bows or bent rods Just one little bend will act like
air in a hydraulic system. I remember going to work at the 40mph limit a kid with a
bike right out in front I slammed the binders and smoked all four ok. then last summer
wife comes to a red light "Pong" there goes a brake hose good thing I trained her its called
the emergency brake: So I guess a 2017 is not that stupid & "Modern" as all think. Ain't it funny things goes south about when the last payment is made? Mechanical brakes are positive air brakes are positive, hydraulics - cross ya fingers unless you live in a perfect world. and we have a dumpster loaded with worthless rotors calipers rotted brake lines all from the century and rarely a brake drum...
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Old 12-15-2020, 09:32 AM   #50
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

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Originally Posted by VeryTangled View Post
Hi Everyone, Hopefully getting these into this thread will help.











Jeff, I like these documents. Are they all in one book or are the several books. Can you send a pic of the cover so I can buy one? I see there are several different variations of service bulletin books, I want to make sure I get the right ones for my 36 fordor
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Old 12-15-2020, 09:48 AM   #51
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

You are looking for Ford V-8 Service Bulletins 1932-1937 (tan cover hardbound) from Post Motor Books dated 1968. (all Ford issued service bulletins)

You can also get the ABC's of Brake Adjustment (DVD of original Ford Training Film) from the Early Ford V-8 Foundation.
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Old 12-15-2020, 09:53 AM   #52
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

There's a re-print of all of the 1932-37 U.S. Service Bulletins including those above from many of the hobby suppliers. For example, Bob Drake offers it (in stock) for $22. Used copies show up frequently on Amazon and ebay.
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Old 12-15-2020, 09:58 AM   #53
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

Hard cover looks like this?
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Old 12-15-2020, 10:33 AM   #54
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

Yep, but I believe that Bob's $22 version is soft bound.
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Old 12-15-2020, 11:40 AM   #55
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

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Originally Posted by billybronco1 View Post
Jeff, I like these documents. Are they all in one book or are the several books. Can you send a pic of the cover so I can buy one? I see there are several different variations of service bulletin books, I want to make sure I get the right ones for my 36 fordor
Hi Everyone! billybronco, I tried.

See post 11 in this thread from 11/24.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...7&postcount=11

They show up in their original monthly pamphlet format but they get snapped up by literature collectors and I'm fine using the reprinted ones.
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Old 12-15-2020, 12:51 PM   #56
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

Okay thanks, I found and ordered one on eBay (used) hardcover shipped $15
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Old 12-15-2020, 01:33 PM   #57
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

Quote:
Originally Posted by billybronco1 View Post
So a little more on the brake situation. I feel I can't get the adjustment on the wedge right until I get the proper adjusting tool. An open end wrench will only tighten them so much, then slips off and I can't get the last click to go.

Try using a 12" or larger crescent wrench that you can tighten against those adjusters before trying to turn them. An open end or box end wrench that does not fit those adjusters properly will definitely slip

Right now it pulls to the left a little when I hit them quickly, does that mean I need to tighten up the right?

I would suggest setting your front adjuster's so they engage first....prior to the rear engaging. It's possible that the rear brakes are causing your car to pull in either direction. This is exactly what was happening on my '35 fordor with mechanical brakes the last time I had to adjust them. I could not stop the pulling to one side when making quick stops by just adjusting just the front. By adjust the rear brakes properly, I was able to completely stop it from pulling to either side.

Also as someone suggested check the temperature on the drums. The fronts are running cooler than the rears. 95 on front 125 on rear. Are the fronts suppose to do most the stopping or should everything be equal? I would think the fronts would be a higher temp if they are doing most the stopping.

If you are trying to set braking by the temperature of the drums, then it's my opinion the front drums will be hotter than the rear drums.

I hope I connected the rods right. I first tightened up all the wedges so I had about the same drag on each wheel. Then I hooked up the rods by pushing the lever back about 1/32" (which is nothing) in the release direction, not to apply anymore drag on the drum.
I think that's okay initially when you reassemble all the braking components, but for subsequent fine tuning the braking adjusters on the backing plates, I would not disconnect the rods unless adjustment of the rod length becomes necessary,. JMO
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Old 12-15-2020, 01:49 PM   #58
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

John, thanks for those tips. Yes, I agree the front drums should be warmer than the rears if they are grabbing first. So with that said, I assume I should adjust them in such a way that the rears have less drag, meaning the wedge is backed off some and the front brakes more drag or tighter so they engage first. Does that sound right? If so how much drag is too much?
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Old 12-15-2020, 02:17 PM   #59
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

Quote:
Originally Posted by billybronco1 View Post
John, thanks for those tips. Yes, I agree the front drums should be warmer than the rears if they are grabbing first. So with that said, I assume I should adjust them in such a way that the rears have less drag, meaning the wedge is backed off some and the front brakes more drag or tighter so they engage first. Does that sound right? If so how much drag is too much?
If I were you, for now, I would leave the rears as they are, and just set the drag a little more on both fronts. I usually set the drag at each wheel by giving the tire a hard spin clockwise so that tire is only able to complete about one half revolution before coming to a complete stop.

It's been my experience when trying to set the drag, the brake shoe linings will wear pretty quickly, requiring repeated adjustment after a short drive until the linings wear enough to fit the brake drum curvature more completely.
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Last edited by JM 35 Sedan; 12-15-2020 at 02:24 PM. Reason: Clarification of post
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Old 12-25-2020, 10:19 PM   #60
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Default Re: Brake Adjustment 1936 Mechanical

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My 5 cents, make sure there is NO bows or bent rods. Just one little bend will act like air in a hydraulic system.
Thank you big job, this may be the best hint presented in the whole thread.

And I absolutely must tip the hat to my sensei (since my Dad passed... https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...05&postcount=1), JM 35 Sedan.

I tried to remember their lessons but I'm not the best student.

If your brake rods are bent, just the slightest bit, them things won't work with any kind of sensible behavior.
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