Sound deadening Q ?

[hardtimes]

Ive got a roadster that has a nasty hollow ring sound.
Have any of you successfully used material to “deaden” / eliminate this tinny sound. What material to use for best results.
BTW... no interior yet.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Dynamat is a great product for this.

[hardtimes]

Thanks.
There is a ‘bed liner’ spray that is super tough. Ive used it in trucck beds. Bullet proof strong.
Wondering if anyone has tried this. It is used as under coating to protect bottom surfaces.
Is there more than one grade dynamat ?

[Bruce of MN]

There are Dynamat competitors, also.

[Wick]

I use the silver roof or air duct insulation material. Comes in a roll and is super sticky on one side.
Buy it at Lowe's. I've used it on A's and old VW's. It works.

[nkaminar]

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I have the Dynamat in my car and I can report no drumming or ringing sound.

[77Birdman]

Dynamat comes in different thickness's I believe. At least when I did my car a few years it did. There is also a product called lizard skin which is supposed to be very good. Both are expensive, I have also heard of people doing what Wick did as well with good results.

[Bob Bidonde]

The science of sound deadening body panels is to change their mass. This can be done by adding weight using roofing starter course material which is sticky on one side. The photos show this technique in my 190A. This technique is less expensive than using mat materials.

[Conaway2]

I installed a cowl insulation kit from QuietRide Solutions on my ‘31 roadster, and also installed a firewall insulated panel available from most vendors. I also used dynamat on the underside of the floorboard above the muffler, and covered this with 1/16” aluminum metal sheeting. Insulating these areas made an immediate and very noticeable decrease in noise and heat inside the car.
Jim

[Jack Shaft]

Noico is way cheaper than dynamat, adheres as good and is very effective.. the roofing material can droop in hot weather conditions.

[dmaxweb]

Removed duplicate post

[dmaxweb]

Originally Posted by Wick

I use the silver roof or air duct insulation material. Comes in a roll and is super sticky on one side.
Buy it at Lowe's. I've used it on A's and old VW's. It works.

Peel and Seal from Lowes. 3 layers in doors and 2 most other areas.
You need to use it when fairly warm

It's sticky stuff so you pretty much get once chance. I cleaned surfaces with rubbing alcohol and applied in manageable lengths of 12" or so. Peel backing a bit at one end of a strip and remove from behind as you press the strip in place. I then used a J-Roller and wallpaper seam roller and covered all seams with foil tape.

[whirnot]

I have not used Dynamat, but have used Fatmat, and Killmat, in one car, two pickups, and a motor home. The killmat was 50 mil, the fat mat 60 mil. They make a big difference. I think I actually prefer killmat. Even though it is thinner, it works well and comes in 10x16 sheets instead of a roll. It seems to be the stickiest as well. I used deadener in the complete floor pan of my roadster, including on top of the floor boards.

[GeneBob]

I just installed Vibro Solutions sound deadening mat because it is made in USA. I covered most of the body metal surfaces in the doors, inside of the cowl, and around the back surfaces (Tudor). It made a fantastic improvement in the sound level and made the doors sound nice and solid when closed.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

The science of sound deadening body panels is to change their mass. This can be done by adding weight using roofing starter course material which is sticky on one side. The photos show this technique in my 190A. This technique is less expensive than using mat materials.

Great thought. I guess an even cheaper way to change the mass of those body panels would be by plastering large globs of Bondo onto the inside of those panels!!

[Brentwood Bob]

Bob, in #8, you have a modified plastic container as a work tray. Clever.
As a 20 year waterproofer, I have thought the aluminum backed deadener might trap moisture next to the body metal over time. I guess full adhesion is the best answer to this possibility.
I have no experience sound deadening the model a, so ignore my thoughts, just that the sound of a model a door closing like an old icebox would be worth it.

[woodiewagon46]

I used a 3M sound deadener, product PN, 08840. It comes in 19"x19" self sticking, paintable, squares and ten in a box. It's $75 for a box of 10, a heck of a lot cheaper than Dynamat. One box is probably enough for 2 Model A's.

[hardtimes]

Some different and good ideas given !
Ill have to do some research on what you guys gave.
How can insulation be installed inside roadster doors ?

note:
In past, I've found that the firewall insulator...sold commercially...did a good job !

[CarlG]

I have used Dynamat, but more recently I have been using RoadKill. I have to order Dynamat and pay freight to get it here. RoadKill I can get locally. It is actually a little easier to work with and does a good job.

[PotvinV8]

Bob Bidonde's photos are a perfect example of how to apply any decent "deadener". You don't need to coat the entire door skin, roof, etc., small strips will suffice. Knock on the sheetmetal with your knuckles and you'll hear the difference. A little goes a long way.

[Bob Bidonde]

Hi Terry,
I think Ford read your mind, and that's why the doors have gobs of that tar-like stuff.

[Dick Carne]

You asked about sound deadening for roadster/touring car doors. When we first did our phaeton back in the 1960's, we stuffed the doors with fiberglass separated from the traditional house insulation roll. It seemed to substantially deaden the sound, and also added more of a "classic door closing sound" as well. Since these doors would otherwise be difficult to add a more conventional sound deadening material (like Dynamat, for instance), this seemed to be an otherwise inexpensive means of deadening the door sound. Perhaps the only real caveat that I can see is the possibility of trapped moisture inside the door, but we seldom drive our open cars in the rain (if we can help it), and are generally careful not to let water run down the side curtain rod opening in any event. After more than fifty years, no problems to this point.

[DkFordor]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

The science of sound deadening body panels is to change their mass.

Bob, that holds for vibrations of the car itself for sure. Does it hold for transmitted noises from the outside also?

\Dan

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by PotvinV8

Bob Bidonde's photos are a perfect example of how to apply any decent "deadener". You don't need to coat the entire door skin, roof, etc., small strips will suffice. Knock on the sheetmetal with your knuckles and you'll hear the difference. A little goes a long way.

While Bob's method may work well for the tinny body panels, it does nothing for engine and road noise and for heat.

I covered my entire floor in my Town Sedan with DynaMat, followed by Jute backed foil and finally carpet. Nice and quiet. I also insulated the fire wall.

I eventually went back and fully insulated the insides of the doors and body to make it even quieter inside.

[old31]

I agree 100% with Y.

Bob's method would change the sound/vibration of an item, but does nothing to truly soundproof or heat/air proof the car. On top of what Bob did I would apply Dynamat to all surfaces while the upholstery is out.

[DkFordor]

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What have you guys done (if anything at all ) to insulate the roof, soundwise and thermally?
Could a material like dynaliner, or something similar, be used above the metal net instead of the cotton wadding/padding?

\Dan

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by CarlG

I have used Dynamat, but more recently I have been using RoadKill. I have to order Dynamat and pay freight to get it here. RoadKill I can get locally. It is actually a little easier to work with and does a good job.

Hey Carl,
ROADKILL....eh ?
That's got to be one smelly car !!
And here I thot that A skunk, stuck up in the chassis was bad..whew !!
Never thot of insulating withem...lol

Lot of roadkill moose up that way....wonder how many cars/trucks one of those would do ?

[GeneBob]

DkFordor,
I sound deadened the sheet metal on my Tudor and have found that the roof really isn't a problem. I think the stock construction may work very well for insulation.

[PotvinV8]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

While Bob's method may work well for the tinny body panels, it does nothing for engine and road noise and for heat.

I'll give you that, but now we're splitting hairs as to the OP's original post!

I've found the Dynaliner product line works very well as a second layer of insulation on the floor, firewall and roof to block out additional heat and noise. It's available in a few different thicknesses as well.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by hardtimes

Hey Carl,
ROADKILL....eh ?
That's got to be one smelly car !!
And here I thot that A skunk, stuck up in the chassis was bad..whew !!
Never thot of insulating withem...lol

Lot of roadkill moose up that way....wonder how many cars/trucks one of those would do ?

This is the "RoadKill" I use: