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05-07-2018, 08:11 AM | #21 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,052
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Re: Head Bolts on a 8BA
Quote:
Generally you have a fair amount of time to go over the fasteners again if necessary! (Add) Just a tip I keep mentioning when filling the cooling system from "day-one", do NOT put any anti-freeze in at all, use only fresh water (BUT, do be aware of the weather conditions?). The anti-freeze tends to retard any pin-leaks from sealing themselves up especially in the head bolt/stud area. Occasionally during a dyno session we'll see water coming up some studs on a few of the Chevy's, by the time the session is over they have all usually stopped leaking! Thanks, Gary in N.Y. P.S. On a side note here we've not found it necessary to re-torque any Flathead heads after they're bolted on, none of my customers have either that I'm aware of anyway! I assume much of this depends on the choice of gaskets/fasteners? We mostly use ARP on a regular basis!
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05-07-2018, 08:31 AM | #22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 10,939
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Re: Head Bolts on a 8BA
Thanks, Gary for that very helpful information.
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05-07-2018, 08:59 AM | #23 |
Member Emeritus
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fitzgerald, Georgia
Posts: 2,204
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Re: Head Bolts on a 8BA
I do not know how many engines (Flathead) I have dealt with but I have NEVER seen one that did not need head bolts/studs re-torqued after cycling. I have used several different thread "sealers" and mostly have used #2 Permatex over the past 10 years because it is easy to find and works.
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