Head Gasket

[JD 1931]

I used the modern style head gasket for my model a original motor and it worked well, stopped all seepage. Installed it about 8 yrs ago...JD

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

If you use the Best Graphite 509g, Rich Falluca's recommendation is NOT to use any type of sealer, that way the graphite "bonds" to the block and cylinder head metal. Don't know, as I am not a metallurgist, just going by Rich's recommendation and he should be in a position to "know".

As does Charlie Yapp at the Secrets of Speed Society;

"ABOUT HEAD GASKETS:
Our Best Brand head gaskets do not require "sealant" if the decks are flat, near-new, fresh, unscored and clean. Sealant is built into the gasket.
Name goes to up to sky. Start Torque at 25 pounds, using the sketch above, in numerical sequence and increase incrementally 5 pounds at a time to a final torque of 55 pounds."

I have a Snyder's 5.5 on my '30 Town Sedan using a Best 573G gasket. No sealant, no problems.

[Flathead]

Pertaining to water droplets at the tailpipe----don't forget that water is a by-product of combustion and some water is perfectly normal.

[Railcarmover]

^^^Not only that,^^^ grey iron castings crack...

[Smog Tech]

Flathead is correct, when you burn gasoline, water is a product of combustion.
The Best website says to use copper spray on their graphite head gaskets. I do and it works well.

[denniskliesen]

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Originally Posted by AL in NY

If you use the Best Graphite 509g, Rich Falluca's recommendation is NOT to use any type of sealer, that way the graphite "bonds" to the block and cylinder head metal. Don't know, as I am not a metallurgist, just going by Rich's recommendation and he should be in a position to "know".

Exactly what I did when installed my 6:1 head over 3,000 miles ago. No leaks, no weeping around the edges. Something AER also recommended at the time was a dab of RTV around the stud at the base of the stud. No coppercoat or anything else for sealer on the surface of the head gasket.

[Brendan]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

You are vague about the need to change your gasket. I would agree that you may open up more than you wish if it is not needed.

yup! it took me 3 weeks to get my head off! the studs where stuck to the head

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

I don’t think anyone sells the 509 G anymore, as it only fits an A. The venders seem to sell the 573, which is for a B with the steam holes. So it will work on either a B or an A. That’s the one recommended for the high compression head.

[CT Jack]

Graphite doesn't bond. It is an excellent high temperature lubricant. If your head is in good condition, flat and not warped, and without cracks I would recommend using a copper gasket. The key to making a Model A gasket not leak is to torque, torque, and retorque the head frequently after installation. Doing this is key to preventing leaking.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by CT Jack

Graphite doesn't bond. It is an excellent high temperature lubricant. If your head is in good condition, flat and not warped, and without cracks I would recommend using a copper gasket. The key to making a Model A gasket not leak is to torque, torque, and retorque the head frequently after installation. Doing this is key to preventing leaking.

A while back, someone here said they check the tension on the head studs at each service. I have adopted that regime and so far, so good. It only takes a few minutes but a blown gasket can be a real PITA.

[updraught]

The copper ones use graphite.

http://www.bestgasket.com/about_our_products.asp
"GraphTite™ head gaskets have superb sealing characteristics, excellent torque retention, and hold up to the punishment dished out by high-performance engines"

[pbishop]

'29er' seems to have covered most everything I could think of and more. Senior Members have those years of experience that cannot be gained any other way.