Cant keep my Model A running.. Help me troubleshoot!

[Theo]

Hey guys. Ive had my Model A since July now, it was passed down to my from my grandfather. When I got the car, it wasnt running. Since then, I have gotten the car to run. Now, when the car runs, its runs rough. I have to have the choke on for it to stay running, and it will cut out from time to time. If I give it any gas, it stalls. Im thinking it is a fuel issue. I had the car running good a few weeks ago, but the radiator was bad, which caused the car to overheat, which ruined the condensor. Since then, i put a new radiator and condensor in. I also changed the plugs at the same time. Correct gap and all. Timing is set, but I will check it again this weekend.

Heres a list of all of the new parts i have put in:
-New Zenith carb. This one:
http://www.autotestsys.com/Merchant2..._Code=ZEN13922

^ I know this isnt the problem because the car ran perfectly with this before. The old zenith had a broken jet and was all gummed up
-New coil
-New coil wire
-New plugs (motorcraft)
-New points (gapped and timing set)
-New radiator, hoses, thermostat and water pipe
-New starter
-New battery, cables, and ground strap
-New condensor


And thats about it. One other question. Which way do I turn the fuel shutoff? Does the end point down towards the floor, or does it go parallel with the line? I just want to make sure I have it turned the right way.

Thanks guys!

[Tom Wesenberg]

When the fuel handle is pointed up and down it's ready for take off, just like a rocketship. Horizontal is off. This is original fuel valves and I don't know if any repro valves were set up differently.

[Theo]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

When the fuel handle is pointed up and down it's ready for take off, just like a rocketship. Horizontal is off. This is original fuel valves and I don't know if any repro valves were set up differently.

Ok that is what I thought.. Just wanted to make sure I wasnt brain dead and doing it wrong the entire time.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Have you installed this little screen in the shut off valve on the gas tank, to keep any junk from clogging the tank outlet and limiting fuel flow to your new carb?

http://www.brattons.com/uploads/imag...arge/13280.jpg

[1931 flamingo]

Have you disconnected the fuel line, either at the firewall, sediment bowl or the carb inlet and checked for GOOD fuel flow??
Paul in CT

[jackball]

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Drain the fuel tank, make sure the shutoff valve is clear, stick a screwdriver into the tank where the fuel line exits the tank. My 31 would not run but about 2 minutes and I found a glob of rust snot in the tank right at the exit of the tank. And please have a fuel filter in the line. I like the clear type so I can see what is happning.

[Jason in TX]

I'm thinking vacuum leak from the windshield wiper motor. Plug the vacuum line on the intake above the carburetor and see if that helps

[700rpm]

Keep in mind you only need spark, gas and timing to make a Model A run. Make sure you have all three, and then start throwing money at other potential problems, like radiators. You don't need a thermostat. And finally, as you work on your A, don't throw anything away, even if you think it's broken or doesn't work; you never know when you'll need it or want it for some other purpose. Welcome to one of the best hobbies there is.

[jackball]

Don't forget to check the filter/strainer in the carb.

[johnbuckley]

Sounds like fuel starvation. Not all fuel taps are the right way round! to make sure reasonable fuel flow to carb disconnect fuel line from carb and blow back through it to dislodge any crud stuck at tank oultet. at least that'll be one possiblity eliminated.
( also try running it with fuel cap off just in case it not vented properly- on later As they looke the same and fit but the rad cap is non vented the fuel cap vented)

[jkeesey]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned it but there is supposed to be a filter on the tank side of your shutoff valve. It may have become clogged and restricting the fuel flow. If you blow air back into the tank it may dislodge the filter and cause more problems. Id pull the line from the carb and attempt to drain the tank if it doesn't flow from the line suck it out through the fill hole. Remove the shut off and inspect inside. If you pull the line at the carb and get a good steady fuel flow disregard everything I just mentioned.

[Dick M]

In addition to trying the above suggestions, you can also check to see that your fuel line from the filter bowl to the carb is not in too far past the compression ring. If it is too far into the filter bowl the gas flow will be restricted.

[Theo]

Little bit of an update. My dad and I tried messing with the car abit today. First we checked the fuel, and it was flowing good, and the fuel was not dirty.

Next we started the car up. With the choke on it idled pretty good. Eventually once the car was warmed up, we adjusted the carb a little bit, and now it idles very well. You can give it gas and it does not stall. Took it for a little ride around the backyard and it seemed good.

I think the problem we were having was not giving the car enough time to warm up. The car seems to be running much better. Only issue we were having is when you tend to push the gas pedal at a pretty decent rate (not flooring it, but pushing it pretty good) it tends to bog a little bit. Is that a common issue with these cars?

[kp]

open the GAV ,maybe 1/4 turn while Giving it Gas driving down the road ,sounds like it may be starving for fuel. Also make sure the spark lever is pulled bout 3/4 way down.Need to be advanced as the motor turns over faster .

[Jason in TX]

I had the bogging throttle response in another car. The float in the carb was set too low. Doesn't allow the bowl to fill up enough. You may need to check your float height.

[Theo]

Originally Posted by kp

open the GAV ,maybe 1/4 turn while Giving it Gas driving down the road ,sounds like it may be starving for fuel. Also make sure the spark lever is pulled bout 3/4 way down.Need to be advanced as the motor turns over faster .

The GAV isnt adjustible on the 13922 Zenith I have in the car. The 2 adjustments are on the carb instead of 2 on the carb and 1 in the car like the old zenith.

And Should I leave it 3/4 down or all the way down? once the car starts up I usually bring it all the way down.

[Jake]

Theo: The spark advance should be adjusted to the point that the engine runs the best for the speed that you are driving. Running with the advance all the way down is usually when you are running at high speeds.

[Theo]

Originally Posted by Jake

Theo: The spark advance should be adjusted to the point that the engine runs the best for the speed that you are driving. Running with the advance all the way down is usually when you are running at high speeds.

Ok thanks! I never knew that! I thought the only time it wasnt supposed to be all the way up was when you were starting the car.

[Jake]

Theo: The spark lever should be all the way up when starting! Then moved down a few notches until warmed up.

[Jake]

1. In Step #1, the breaker point gap is the space between the end of the little silver arm (the breaker point arm), and the tiny adjustable screw, under the black plastic disk (the rotor). It was a bad moment for me when I didn’t even know what the book was talking about in the first step.
2. In Step #2, a really good tool for bending the rotor tab up or down without marring it is a big crescent wrench.
3. In Step #5, when it says to “fully retard the spark lever on the steering column” that means push it all the way up.
4. In Step #7, when you have reversed the timing pin and are feeling for the small recess in the cam gear, keep in mind that it is very small, it takes two full rotations with the crank to get back to the same point on the cam gear, and the small recess will be there when the rotor is pointing roughly toward the front of the car. For me this operation took a good deal of time and a LOT of patience. I hope it is easier for you. While you can only turn the crank in one direction, if you go past the notch just a little bit you can grab hold of a fan blade to go back a bit.
5. In Step #14, when I tightened the cam locking screw, I had to turn the cam a little farther counter-clockwise than I wanted it to end up in order to account for the movement of the tightening screw.
6. Don’t forget to screw the timing pin back in, and remove the crank before you try to start the car