The Ford Barn

tubman · 01-24-2021, 01:43 PM

I hate to be the one to say this, but if the problem persists after you have everything back to normal (hint, hint - replace the restrictors with proper thermostats), the problem may be a failed head gasket, a cracked head, or (shudder), a cracked block.

Ggmac · 01-24-2021, 04:32 PM

Makes no sense .

VeryTangled · 01-24-2021, 06:24 PM

I'ma just say that 1935/36 cooling systems have been a "hot" topic here on the barn for ten years and counting!

Super entertaining for some, super frustrating for others.

BobR35 · 01-27-2021, 07:39 PM

UPDATE:

So after three day trips, none less than 60 miles and a few short runs in town, this is what I came up with.
1) Only fill the radiator up just over the cores to leave room for expansion. The coolant would rise over an inch when hot and that's where the overflow happens.
2) I've come to the conclusion that the high flow water pumps are too much and the system is not designed for that much pressure/flow. I'm running 180* Stats with 3/4" restrictors at the radiator input to resolve that and it is working perfect, however I'll probably go back to the 160* Stats for the summer. The temp as is stays at 180* at all speeds and also at idle in trafffic in 82-85* weather. I've let it idle for 10 minutes after a long hot run, "No" loss of fluid...

So I'm really appreciative of all the input that eveyone has contributed and I can't say enough about your interest and desire to help with the issues that arise and I'm sure this topic will be a common topic for future owners'.

JSeery · 01-27-2021, 07:59 PM

Not sure why you would want to go to 160 deg thermostats, what is the point in that? You want the engine to run at least at 180, 185 or 190 would be better.

51woodie · 01-28-2021, 01:25 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I agree with JSeery. When I got my 46 Coupe, I started with 160s in my 59AB, and it ran about 160, which was too cold, and the plugs looked sooty. I knew the carb and ignition were good, so I installed 180s, which made a big chance in the plugs, as they generally look dark chocolate after a good drive.

BobR35 · 01-28-2021, 07:28 PM

You're absolutely right 51woodie! Since I put the 180's in I no longer have that black soot coming out the exhaust and the plugs are looking normal instead of sooted up. I'll keep the 180's!!

01-24-2021, 01:43 PM	#21
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,312	Re: '35 Radiator / water out the tube I hate to be the one to say this, but if the problem persists after you have everything back to normal (hint, hint - replace the restrictors with proper thermostats), the problem may be a failed head gasket, a cracked head, or (shudder), a cracked block.

01-24-2021, 04:32 PM	#22
Ggmac Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Lake worth Florida Posts: 1,095	Re: '35 Radiator / water out the tube Makes no sense .

01-24-2021, 06:24 PM	#23
VeryTangled Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: (Not far enough...) Outside of DC Posts: 3,387	Re: '35 Radiator / water out the tube I'ma just say that 1935/36 cooling systems have been a "hot" topic here on the barn for ten years and counting! Super entertaining for some, super frustrating for others. __________________ -Jeff H Have you thought about supporting the Early Ford V-8 Foundation Museum?

01-27-2021, 07:39 PM	#24
BobR35 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2020 Location: Pt. St. Lucie, FL Posts: 104	Re: '35 Radiator / water out the tube UPDATE: So after three day trips, none less than 60 miles and a few short runs in town, this is what I came up with. 1) Only fill the radiator up just over the cores to leave room for expansion. The coolant would rise over an inch when hot and that's where the overflow happens. 2) I've come to the conclusion that the high flow water pumps are too much and the system is not designed for that much pressure/flow. I'm running 180* Stats with 3/4" restrictors at the radiator input to resolve that and it is working perfect, however I'll probably go back to the 160* Stats for the summer. The temp as is stays at 180* at all speeds and also at idle in trafffic in 82-85* weather. I've let it idle for 10 minutes after a long hot run, "No" loss of fluid... So I'm really appreciative of all the input that eveyone has contributed and I can't say enough about your interest and desire to help with the issues that arise and I'm sure this topic will be a common topic for future owners'.

01-27-2021, 07:59 PM	#25
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: '35 Radiator / water out the tube Not sure why you would want to go to 160 deg thermostats, what is the point in that? You want the engine to run at least at 180, 185 or 190 would be better.

01-28-2021, 01:25 PM	#26
51woodie Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Chelmsford, ON Canada Posts: 528	Re: '35 Radiator / water out the tube Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I agree with JSeery. When I got my 46 Coupe, I started with 160s in my 59AB, and it ran about 160, which was too cold, and the plugs looked sooty. I knew the carb and ignition were good, so I installed 180s, which made a big chance in the plugs, as they generally look dark chocolate after a good drive.

01-28-2021, 07:28 PM	#27
BobR35 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2020 Location: Pt. St. Lucie, FL Posts: 104	Re: '35 Radiator / water out the tube You're absolutely right 51woodie! Since I put the 180's in I no longer have that black soot coming out the exhaust and the plugs are looking normal instead of sooted up. I'll keep the 180's!!