Engine balance during install

[1930artdeco]

Hi Brent and welcome.

When I took my engine out and put her back in we used two angle brackets that dad created out of 3/8" steel. We used two studs w/o the head and just positioned the chain and brackets so that everything was balanced front to back. Left to right is no real concern as there is nothing to hit and the engine minus manifolds is not side heavy.

Mike

[dean from bozeman]

I have used devices like John Stone's angle iron and Tin Lizard's eye bolt to take engines out or put them back in. Both have worked fine except for the occassional alignment problems or rear engine mount problems. However, it seems like Mike K's device would work best to aleviate the above mentioned problems and for use on a vehicle that you shouldn't scratch.

I do love threads like this one....American ingenuity and multiple correct answers for the same question. Priceless.

[Tin Lizard]

Originally Posted by Colorado Greg

p.s. Do yourself a favor and get the frame spreader as it can be a real pain in the neck without it

Sounds good, thanks for the heads up. I found a couple pictures and see what you mean.

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

Hi Brent and welcome.
Left to right is no real concern as there is nothing to hit and the engine minus manifolds is not side heavy.

Mike

Seems like this is the consensus on the importance of balance. Not critical; but helpful to be close.

Originally Posted by dean from bozeman

I do love threads like this one....American ingenuity and multiple correct answers for the same question. Priceless.

Well said. I've had mostly good experiences in various forums, but everyone's comments in this thread are the model of what I like in a healthy forum discussion.

I got a little carried away with this project, but had a blast putting this stuff together. Here is the new lift bracket attached to the head puller. It has two sets of mounting holes so I have a couple options for side to side balance. I expect I will pick one position after a trial run and call it good enough.



The assembly seems like overkill (Ain't no kill like overkill). I think it will work fine with just the bracket, as seen below. Also pictured is the load leveler, completed over the weekend. Not pictured is a 1/2 ton hand lever hoist and small crane rig I use for various tasks.


The first lift will be a spare motor from a family member's pole barn in a couple weeks.

Thanks to all for the helpful comments!

[F.O.G.]

Reading this thread I had to make my first post. The damage to the end
spark plug threads was probably caused by lifting the engine using only a
chain attached to the eyebolts screwed into the head causing a severe
sideload on the threads. The use of a lifting plate (angle; plate etc.) which would put the threads under a straight line load a.k.a. tension.
I am starting on the long process of putting a '31 Tudor back together
that is a 31K mile car that was disassembled 10 years ago. Should be very
interesting.

[Tin Lizard]

Originally Posted by F.O.G.

The damage to the end
spark plug threads was probably caused by lifting the engine using only a
chain attached to the eyebolts screwed into the head causing a severe
sideload on the threads. The use of a lifting plate (angle; plate etc.) which would put the threads under a straight line load a.k.a. tension.

Just to add to your point, some method of including the passenger side head studs would be necessary to avoid a side load on the plug bolts. The commercial puller in the first post and the one pictured above in post #23 both have provisions for the plate to push down on the studs as the hoist is pulling up on the other side. The plug bolts act as a pivot and could cause an even greater side load in the absence of compression on the other side than the eyebolts alone. In this case, I would be more concerned about bending the hardware grade bolts than damaging the 7/8" spark plug threads.

[Dave in MN]

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Originally Posted by Tin Lizard

Great stuff, Dave. That's the heart of it. Thanks! Are the dimensions what they appear to be?... meaning; the upright plate is about 3/8" to the right of the front middle and rear middle head studs?

Yes...you are right on..about 3/8" to 1/2" to the driver's side of the center studs.

[Bill Stipe]

Hello Marc,
The engine lift and head puller comb pictured is my product. I have used it many times not only to lift the engines in and out but to pull a stuck head. I will tell you if you thread the lifting studs into the head with full engagment you will never damage or strip the threads unless some one previously damaged them. I have torqued the 7/16 diameter threads until the bolt snapped trying to remove a stuck head but the spark plug threads where fine. This lifter works great and was used to lift motors since high school when I was at home yet. I added the lifter to Ron Cloats stuck head puller Idea for a dual purpose tool. Hope this helps a little if anyone is thinking about purchasing one for the club or themselves.

Thanks


Bill Stipe

www.stipemachine.com