My beautiful 34 Coupe has not started and ran right for 2 years!!!!!!!

[Mig29pilot]

Background: I bought the vehicle in 1984. Took it all apart. Every last nut, bolt and screw. For the next 23 years I worked to create a world class, perfect, original, 34, 5 window deluxe coupe, w/rumble seat. I turned out better than expected. It usually was awarded the top of class or show, every time I showed it. At the end of the 2008 show year I parked it for the winter. It was starting and running perfectly when I parked it. The next year 4 months later, I got ready to start it and it would not start. So.... I changed or replaced the following:
New MAC's Fuel pump.
Even though it only had 500 miles on Uncle Max's rebuilt S-97 I put my spare, Uncle Max S-97 on.
All new plugs. The plug wires are all new and in original (powder coated) Ford wire looms.
It had "Skip Haney's" excellent Coil and rebuilt distributor and good condenser, but, just in case I put my spare Skips rebuilt coil and distributor. Skip set the points to proper specs.
It has a new steel/Copper coated fuel line and the tank was steam cleaned and coated with a tank protectent.
The fuel level transmitter is original Ford and in good shape.
It has exhaust headers and two "Smitty" type flow through mufflers with good tail pipes.
It has a new "Robert Sherman" crafted fuel line to fuel pump, flex hose, with check valve.
I put some Marvel Mystery oil in the tank just in case a valve was acting up, (It has adjustable lifters installed)
I have worked with this for more than two years with no luck. I do know 34's and flatheads as I won the "C" Fuel class trophy at the Great Bend KS, very first NHRA Drag meet in 1956 but this thing is eating my lunch!
Finally, last month, I got the engine to the point that it would start and idle very smooth, but when RPM is advanced above idle RPM, it "pops" and back fires and runs lousy. I took it out for a run and it runs smooth up to about 25 MPH then it starts popping, and missing and I can't get it faster than 40 to 45 mph! When I check the spark at the plug, the spark will not "jump" to ground more than about 1/8 inch and it looks weak in color.
This missing could be the cause of a vacuum leak but I do not know how to check for leaks. The manifold is aluminum and very nice.
I believe the dash mounted Coil voltage reducer is not working correctly so I jump wired from the 6 volt source direct to the coil so it could have 6 volts for start.
Sorry for the long post but I wanted you all to have all your possible questions asked before replying.
Can anyone PLEASE help me got my sweetheart running correctly again??

[Lanny]

Just one comment, Have you added any fresh gas to it ?

It could be any of many different things, I'm sure someone
on here will chime in with some good advise to help.

[gearhead1952]

Sounds like you have a nice car. I second what lanny said about using fresh gas. Also when you look down the carb bowl are you getting a solid squirt of gas when you move the accelerator plunger? With the engine running you can spray starting fluid around the intake manifold and if engine speed increases you found a vac leak.

[maud]

Sounds just like my '36 pickup was doing. It had too much timing advance. Someone had removed the mechanical advance limiter and spring. It would run fine up to 25mph, then start popping. Try retarding the timing. That still doesn't explain the weak fire though. I swapped both my flathead powered motors to a crab dist. They are far easier to service. I also had one that would idle fine but would die when you gave it any gas. It turned out to be the battery was hooked up neg ground, swapped the cables and it ran fine. Good luck!

[55 dude]

Post some pic's of your car.

[296 V8]

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Iv found white goo in the bottom of carb bowls and in the jets in the last few years. I assume it is from the sh.. gas they sell us.
Bowl must be dry to see it (clear when wet)

[Kahuna]

I would also look closely at the advance unit in the distributor

[1932tub]

Adjustable tappets may need resetting, have become too tight?

[fordscript]

Sticking valves? I have seen this when a V8 has been sitting for a while...the valve guides gum up and cause the valves not to close quickly enough. They will idle good but start missing with a few revs on.

[FlatheadTed]

Some things to try(1) ,Remove plugs use a 4th feller gauge under the vavle head to check for valves not seating,.(2) run a jumper wire all the way from the battery to the coil ,as a test, run the car on the street like this ,This will tell you if you have any issues in the switch wiring harness ect Skips coils can take full 6v ,(3) change the condenser (5)tighten down the manifold or replace gasket check it for cracks .(4), Distributors sitting around can get a film over the points clean them.
If you have poor spark there seems to be a voltage drop work on # 2
,

Originally Posted by Mig29pilot

Background: I bought the vehicle in 1984. Took it all apart. Every last nut, bolt and screw. For the next 23 years I worked to create a world class, perfect, original, 34, 5 window deluxe coupe, w/rumble seat. I turned out better than expected. It usually was awarded the top of class or show, every time I showed it. At the end of the 2008 show year I parked it for the winter. It was starting and running perfectly when I parked it. The next year 4 months later, I got ready to start it and it would not start. So.... I changed or replaced the following:
New MAC's Fuel pump.
Even though it only had 500 miles on Uncle Max's rebuilt S-97 I put my spare, Uncle Max S-97 on.
All new plugs. The plug wires are all new and in original (powder coated) Ford wire looms.
It had "Skip Haney's" excellent Coil and rebuilt distributor and good condenser, but, just in case I put my spare Skips rebuilt coil and distributor. Skip set the points to proper specs.
It has a new steel/Copper coated fuel line and the tank was steam cleaned and coated with a tank protectent.
The fuel level transmitter is original Ford and in good shape.
It has exhaust headers and two "Smitty" type flow through mufflers with good tail pipes.
It has a new "Robert Sherman" crafted fuel line to fuel pump, flex hose, with check valve.
I put some Marvel Mystery oil in the tank just in case a valve was acting up, (It has adjustable lifters installed)
I have worked with this for more than two years with no luck. I do know 34's and flatheads as I won the "C" Fuel class trophy at the Great Bend KS, very first NHRA Drag meet in 1956 but this thing is eating my lunch!
Finally, last month, I got the engine to the point that it would start and idle very smooth, but when RPM is advanced above idle RPM, it "pops" and back fires and runs lousy. I took it out for a run and it runs smooth up to about 25 MPH then it starts popping, and missing and I can't get it faster than 40 to 45 mph! When I check the spark at the plug, the spark will not "jump" to ground more than about 1/8 inch and it looks weak in color.
This missing could be the cause of a vacuum leak but I do not know how to check for leaks. The manifold is aluminum and very nice.
I believe the dash mounted Coil voltage reducer is not working correctly so I jump wired from the 6 volt source direct to the coil so it could have 6 volts for start.
Sorry for the long post but I wanted you all to have all your possible questions asked before replying.
Can anyone PLEASE help me got my sweetheart running correctly again??

[FlatheadTed]

I would also consider blasting out the new Carb s high speed jets with compressed air, if its been sitting you could have filled both Carbs with dirt (Iv seen this before )

[37 Coupe]

I would check for a fuel problem from using a tank coating,some of the coatings that were sold years ago dissolve with 10% ethanol.Friend of mine went through this with carburetor after carburetor,white goo gums up everything you put on new,fuel lines,pumps and carb.

[Mig29pilot]

Thanks a bunch for the suggestion. It is new gas.
Ron

[FlatheadTed]

I have worked on a 36 3window that had compression but when it revved it missed it turned out the Valve Keeper was in the last loop of the spring .just about drove the owner nuts ,between that and swapping carbs with dirt in them A filter is a good idea to use until l you know how much Dirt coming from the tank

[Pat/Ohio]

I would try replacing the flex fuel line. I had one of Bob Sherman's on my car and the fuel pump didn't seem to have enough power to pull the gas through the flex line with the check valve built into it. Just a hunch! Good luck, Pat

[55 dude]

what no pic's? lets see a beautiful 34' coupe.

[Mig29pilot]

Originally Posted by 55 dude

what no pic's? lets see a beautiful 34' coupe.

I would love to but I can't figure out how to send photos with this new site!
Ron

[dude]

I had the same problem as 37 Coupe . Coating from gas tank came loose and was restricting fuel flow. Had some great times at Great Bend myself F/G.

[FL&WVMIKE]

mig29pilot .......................
It is really simple to load photos onto FORDBARN.
If you can load photos onto your DESKTOP, make them no more than 800 pixals wide.
After you have done that,
1. Write your message.
2. Scroll down a bit, to "Manage Attachments".
3. Click on it.
4. Click on "Brouse"
5. Double click on your picture.
6. Click on "Upload".
7. Click on "Close This Window".
8. You are done !
Preview your post and if it is correct, Click on "Submit". If not, just try experimenting. Once you get the hang of it, it is simple.
You can post more than one picture, by repeating "Brouse" and "Upload", before "Close This Window".
This will post "thumbnail" pictures.
Good luck !
MIKE

[BOSSY]

Get a gas can and hook a line into your fuel pump and run it off that. Eliminate the original gas tank. My guess is the new ETHANOL GAS ate your coating of the inside of the tank and is pluging everything up. Worth a try!