1930 Coupe squealing when clutch depressed after new everything

[BobWatts]

Hello, I am a first time poster living in Los Angeles the son of a Father who was a huge Henry fan and spent a lot of time taking us to Model A shows and restoring a 1930 Coupe we still have. Dad passed away in 2011 and his 6 classic Ford's 2-A's a,3 Flathead's and a 40 hot rod sat for years gathering dust.
In January an amazing thing happened when his 36 actually started with no effort and the first time I drove it I got the bug to get them all running again.
I have been successful in getting all except the 34 Cabriolet going which I'm also in the midst of doing.
In the 60's I helped rebuild the 1930 from the ground up and my brother drove it all through High School then my Dad put some more effort into it before parking it for a long sleep.
After rebuilding the carb and doing lots of other little things It runs great and I drove it for the first time in 40 years to give it to my brother who wants to keep it in Palm Springs but coincidentally the clutch gave out on the trip to his house.
So I hired a local transmission shop referred to on the local Model A club web site to replace the Clutch, Pressure Plate, Throw out bearing and Pilot Bearing.
I'm not so sure these guys knew much about Model A's but they did get it back together and therein lies the problem. When you depress the Clutch it makes this scratching or squealing sound which stops when you let the pedal out.
I didn't drive the car to see what happens on the road but they talked to Bratton's who supplied the parts and they gave the bizarre advice to adjust the Pressure Plate through the inspection plate which to my knowledge is not only incorrect but impossible.
So I gave the shop an article on correctly adjusting the pressure plate by removing the fly wheel attaching the pressure plate to it etc etc and I believe that's the avenue they'll soon take.
My question, is are we on the right track? Would you recommend any other course of action? Are the new bearings to be considered suspicious ?
Any advice is much appreciated and sorry for the long winded intro!

[Nabco]

Welcome to the barn and congrats on getting your father's cars back in the road.

[redmodelt]

I am guessing you have the repair manuals. Adjusting the clutch through the inspection plate is a bad idea in my OP because you have no way to check for correct finger adjustment. As it is the nuts are staked to the adjusting screws and depending on how well they are staked you could end up screwing up the slot on the screw part.

I would start with greasing the sliding collar (don't over do) and adjusting the free play in the pedal (1 inch) linkage. Your bearing may be staying in contact with the fingers even if the clutch is released.

If the clutch face was turned for clean up, the recessed area on the rim must be turned down the same amount. If that is the case, could be why Brattons suggested adjusting the fingers thru the door.

The flywheel might have been indexed to the crankshaft for balancing. Pulling the flywheel, it should be marked to return to same place.

[Dino's A]

Would there be anyway you could post a video of this on youtube? Sometimes a picture is worth a million words. If you can, take the inspection plate off and then video it. Maybe also include the throwout bearing in operation also???

[Art Newland]

Any Model A clubs around where the car is now? Contact one, you'll get lots of help.

[larrys40]

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Bob,

sorry to hear of your clutch issues after service and replacement. Model a knowledge specifically sure helps but the later single plate clutch is pretty conventional by most standards so it shouldn't be that big a deal.

The pressure plate cover does have specs for the fingers from the top of the lever where the throwout contacts to the face of the clutch cover. published specs vary from 5/8 to 3/4 but I use a set jig I made and generally set them to 5/8".

Most folks just bolt up a pressure plate ( rebuilt from the suppliers) and don't think or know that the fingers must be adjusted and dial in on these. That's what makes a proper smooth functioning clutch. I use a jig I made that sits on the tom of the clutch cover housing and has a spacer at 5/8" down to theclutch finger. You adjust the nut and screw until it just touches. I use a .002 feeler gauge to confirm correct contact. Do this on all fingers once bolted up. After doing recheck all fingers again. This along with proper trunoin/arm adjustment you should have your proper clutch free play.

I have done an adjustment in the car several times with a procedure and a socket on a string between the throwout bearing and fingers, but it has to be measured out and properly done... a little on the tricky side but can be done.

It is very possible they have damaged or has a defective throwout causing the noise when the clutch is depressed. Also you could have excessive crank movement that depressing the clutch causes the crank to move as well. Careful troubleshooting is in order to pinpoint the issue. If you have a schooled Model A service person in your area that is my suggestion. I'm in the St. Louis area and there are others around the country.
I hope that shed a little light and procedure for you.
Larry Shepard

[Tom Wesenberg]

Larry brought up a good point about the throw out bearing pushing the crankshaft forward. Make sure it isn't rubbing on a starter mounting bolt that is too long. All 3 bolts should be 1" long.

Also make sure the front pulley isn't getting pushed forward enough to rub on the crossmember. I'd oil the mount where it touches the crossmember, just in case squeaks come from there.

[larrys40]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Larry brought up a good point about the throw out bearing pushing the crankshaft forward. Make sure it isn't rubbing on a starter mounting bolt that is too long. All 3 bolts should be 1" long.

Thanks Tom! , excellent point. If they they removed the bolts one by one they might see if they have been nicked before. If too long replace with shorter bolts. make sure lock washers are installed. If this is occurring when the clutch is depressed they also have a rear main thrust/bearing issue but first things first!

Please let us know what the resolution is when you have an update.
Larry

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Also, make sure the ring gear hasn't "scooted" forward, on the flywheel & is rubbing the starter bolts.
Bill W.

[BobWatts]

Fantastic to have so many responses and I'll forward all of them to the shop. Thanks so much!

[Mike]

Maybe they installed the throw out bearing in backwards.

mike

[carolinamudwalker]

I have the same problem with noise when I push the clutch in. I found one of the adjusting nuts on the pressure plate fingers almost completely off. I took up the slack to where It looked like the rest of the nuts & preened it in place. No more noise. I guess I should check all of them for clearance but I dont know how. BTW just completed a 2500 mile tour with no problems. Just lucky Bob

[Mike]

Yes I am but anything is possible.

[1955cj5]

The right way(picture 1), and the wrong way(picture 2)..pushed on easily....

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by 1955cj5

The right way(picture 1), and the wrong way(picture 2)..pushed on easily....

Just goes to show, with some folks anything is possible.

[Tom Endy]

About 10 years ago the suppliers were all carrying a throw-out bearing with the word Aetna stamped on it. They would fail coming out of the box. Most of the better suppliers discontinued selling them. I suspect there are still some around and if you have one installed that may be your problem.

Bratton's carry them made by Federal Mogul and they are good quality. They are made in Mexico and have FM-MEX stamped on them.

Tom Endy

[Mike]

That's what I said anything is possible
Mike

[1955cj5]

Like this..

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by 1955cj5

Like this..

That one must be for the AA truck, as the bearing hub is so short.

[1955cj5]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

That one must be for the AA truck, as the bearing hub is so short.

Yes, but the AA throw out bearing itself is the same as the A bearing.

The AA carrier is shorter but functions the same as the A carrier.