The Ford Barn

CarlG · 05-04-2014, 01:59 AM

I'm using ARP studs and they have an allen socket in the top of the stud so that you can: 1) insert/remove studs, 2) keep them from turning when applying torque to the nuts.

Came in real handy when I had to remove a stud to fix a leaky one today.

Marshall57 · 05-04-2014, 03:06 AM

A little off topic but what do you chase the threads with? A regular tap or a flat bottom one? (is there such a thing?)
I’m worried that the stud might bottom out if any junk is still in the hole and will leave the stud higher rather than lower...
Has that been a problem?
I am just about to put in new studs and a high compression head.

freak · 05-04-2014, 07:34 AM

Flat bottom tap. There is such a thing.

Tom Wesenberg · 05-04-2014, 01:29 PM

Rather than use a bottoming tap, I would cut an X in a bolt and use that to clean the threads.

Marshall57 · 05-04-2014, 09:01 PM

great ideas,, thanks

freak · 05-04-2014, 09:31 PM

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I messed around for a while today with the studs. I placed the gasket, a couple of studs and set the head on. According to the guide that someone posted, the stud should stick out 1/32". 1/32" is a very small amount and I had to use dial calipers to get it right. Of course one you tighten the nuts the gasket will compress a little and the head will pull down and more than 1/32" will be present. Once I was happy with the studs I pulled the head and measured the deck to stud top. Of the three I tried one was at 2.780 and the others were close to that. That is very close to 2.75 or 2-3/4". Someone also posted that number as well. So what I assume is that they were set at 2-3/4" at the factory and that is where I am going to set mine. The water neck studs bottom out and have much more than 1/32" stud showing but I'm not going to worry about that. #8 I have no clue and I'm not using a clamp so I will bottom that one out as well and use a washer if needed. I'm going to use red loctite, set them at 2-3/4", let the loctite set for a day then torque down the head. Thanks for all the input everyone!!

RonC · 05-04-2014, 09:31 PM

I would use a thread chaser not a tap. You want to be careful you don't cut the threaded holes oversized

freak · 05-04-2014, 09:55 PM

If you have the same class tap (typcially 2b) the threads really can't get oversized. A problem can arise of the threads are damaged. If you have damaged threads then more material could be removed. The threads may not be oversized when checked with a thread gage but they could be missing material making the threads weaker. A tap cleans threads very well and used correctly they won't cause damage. The idea of the chaser is that they can form and cut damaged material that makes up a thread back into place. They don't fix cast threads very well but they may clean them ok. I've never used one since I have a tap set but a set of chasers is much cheaper.

freak · 05-04-2014, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1930 coupe

You might want to look at the Loctite website and read about red versus blue.
Red is permanent, the only way you can get the studs back out is to heat them to 500 degrees. Blue will come out cold and is plenty strong for your application. If you ever need to remove your studs you will be sorry if you use red.

It's not that hard to take apart. On a stud as large as these they will come out without heat. On a small bolt, maybe 1/4-20, that was deep in a hole you would probably break it without heat.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 05-04-2014, 10:41 PM

Dog here,
Wull, we got more important things to wurry about, than if ALL our threaded studs stick up jist right, above the NUT! Ol' Gregg, (RIP) even put thet looong stud in the rong hole---BUT, Ol' Bill's got thet covered, he bought 10 CHROME acorn nut covers!! "Why 10? it only has 9, (count them) studs"?----"In case we drop 1 down the bellhousing,DUMMY"!
Ol' Bill sez if he ever has to take the head off, he's gonna' git sum REAL acorn nuts & copper plate them & tell folks it's a Model "T" motor!! Ol' Bill's a RASCAL, but he loves me!! He wanted to take me to the car show today, BUT I couldn't fit in the scooter basket---Buster T.

Mike · 05-05-2014, 06:04 AM

Bill we are just trying to do the job correctly so we do not have to do it again!!

Mike

Mike V. Florida · 05-05-2014, 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

Bill we are just trying to do the job correctly so we do not have to do it again!!

Mike

He's just having fun with you!

freak · 05-05-2014, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

He's just having fun with you!

That's right but that was Bill's dog not Bill.

05-04-2014, 01:59 AM	#21
CarlG Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 9,115	Re: setting head stud height? I'm using ARP studs and they have an allen socket in the top of the stud so that you can: 1) insert/remove studs, 2) keep them from turning when applying torque to the nuts. Came in real handy when I had to remove a stud to fix a leaky one today. __________________ Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club

05-04-2014, 03:06 AM	#22
Marshall57 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Elko Nevada Posts: 217	Re: setting head stud height? A little off topic but what do you chase the threads with? A regular tap or a flat bottom one? (is there such a thing?) I’m worried that the stud might bottom out if any junk is still in the hole and will leave the stud higher rather than lower... Has that been a problem? I am just about to put in new studs and a high compression head.

05-04-2014, 07:34 AM	#23
freak Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Pemberville, Ohio Posts: 456	Re: setting head stud height? Flat bottom tap. There is such a thing.

05-04-2014, 01:29 PM	#24
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: setting head stud height? Rather than use a bottoming tap, I would cut an X in a bolt and use that to clean the threads.

05-04-2014, 09:01 PM	#25
Marshall57 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Elko Nevada Posts: 217	Re: setting head stud height? great ideas,, thanks

05-04-2014, 09:31 PM	#26
freak Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Pemberville, Ohio Posts: 456	Re: setting head stud height? Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I messed around for a while today with the studs. I placed the gasket, a couple of studs and set the head on. According to the guide that someone posted, the stud should stick out 1/32". 1/32" is a very small amount and I had to use dial calipers to get it right. Of course one you tighten the nuts the gasket will compress a little and the head will pull down and more than 1/32" will be present. Once I was happy with the studs I pulled the head and measured the deck to stud top. Of the three I tried one was at 2.780 and the others were close to that. That is very close to 2.75 or 2-3/4". Someone also posted that number as well. So what I assume is that they were set at 2-3/4" at the factory and that is where I am going to set mine. The water neck studs bottom out and have much more than 1/32" stud showing but I'm not going to worry about that. #8 I have no clue and I'm not using a clamp so I will bottom that one out as well and use a washer if needed. I'm going to use red loctite, set them at 2-3/4", let the loctite set for a day then torque down the head. Thanks for all the input everyone!!

05-04-2014, 09:31 PM	#27
RonC Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 1,868	Re: setting head stud height? I would use a thread chaser not a tap. You want to be careful you don't cut the threaded holes oversized

05-04-2014, 09:55 PM	#28
freak Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Pemberville, Ohio Posts: 456	Re: setting head stud height? If you have the same class tap (typcially 2b) the threads really can't get oversized. A problem can arise of the threads are damaged. If you have damaged threads then more material could be removed. The threads may not be oversized when checked with a thread gage but they could be missing material making the threads weaker. A tap cleans threads very well and used correctly they won't cause damage. The idea of the chaser is that they can form and cut damaged material that makes up a thread back into place. They don't fix cast threads very well but they may clean them ok. I've never used one since I have a tap set but a set of chasers is much cheaper.

05-05-2014, 06:04 AM	#31
Mike Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: ASTON, PA. Posts: 725	Re: setting head stud height? Bill we are just trying to do the job correctly so we do not have to do it again!! Mike