Intro & Questions - '29 Special Coup

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by cpf240

A small update:

The car had both a 12v and a 6v battery sitting in it. The 12v was hooked up as negative ground. My uncle put in the 12v battery and coil - I verified 3 ohm - because he felt it was struggling to crank on 6v. I pulled both batteries to charge.

I wanted to put it back to positive ground, but had to read up on the conversion as I expected to need a starter. Well, no worries there. I do know I'll need to verify the coil is connected properly.

However, in doing this research I found out that the generator needs to be flashed. No problem. But... I also read that the generator should not be run while it is disconnected. Can you guess the next part? This generator has not been connected in 30 years or so!

Now I have to say that the wiring was never finished. Even the ignition switch is bypassed. Just enough wiring to start it. Now to read up on testing generators.

My uncle had said junk in the fuel tank plugged the carb. I pulled it off today, and didn't see anything right away. Then I pulled the top off of it. Hmm, lots of white powder in the bowl, but no sign of red rust flakes or particals. I think it is time to rebuild this carb.

I found the thread detailing this carb, and really appreciate the time that went into that post. I know where to get the rebuild kit, or where to send it in to be rebuilt. What I'm not sure of is how to adjust it when I'm done.

What I'd like to know is, is it a good method to soak it in a 50/50 mix of water and vinegar for a few hours? Also, the screw under the bolt on the bottom of the carb for the main jet is stuck. I'm hoping a good soaking will get it loose.

It is also missing the correct inlet fitting with the attached filter screen. I have been unable to find a replacement for it. There are some parts carbs for sale that may have it, but that's a gamble.

That's all for now. All comments, suggestions, etc appreciated!

Welcome!! Seems like you have a handle on things. Did the Generator spin with engine running? There should have been a melt down if the Gen was working and the pulley spun as the battery is the real regulator when using a generator.

Have you decided on 12 OR 6 volts?

And this thread may help with carb adjustments, Carb adjustments

Do you have any books yet?

[Barry B./ Ma.]

Good luck on your Special coupe, as you can see in my avitar I have one that I restored in 1980 . Mine has the trunk and most Special coupes came that way, I find it very handy compared to the rumble seat when you want to carry things. I have a good idea that solved the problem of the missing belt rail trim if you want to PM me. The brass trim piece bought from universal Tire duplicates the original moulding in looks. You have a good looking project there, good luck. Barry

[JohnLaVoy]

Welcome to the hobby. it looks like you are taking a real interest in the car. I hope you have looked into a local chapter, they usually have folks that share your interest and have lots of recommendations on where to find stuff etc. Bert's in Denver CO area is a good parts source for original parts and Arizona Model A in Chandler AZ also has lots of original parts both also sell reproductions so you can get both from them. Snyder's you were refereed to and Bratton's is another excellent choice. Hope to see you at a Model A event soon, there is a lot of fun to have in the hobby so get involved and go on a tour!

[rocket1]

Looks great,needs a little bit,many of started with a lot worse.

[cpf240]

Originally Posted by rocket1

Looks great,needs a little bit,many of started with a lot worse.

Well, it *was* a lot worse. My dad sent me some pictures from back when she first arrived. This was back in 1978, I hadn't realized how long he has had this car!

[Tom Wesenberg]

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If the generator has been run for more than a couple minutes while not connected to the battery, it most likely is burned up. It's so easy to just run a jumper wire from the cutout to the starter switch, if need be. The way to save a generator, when not connected to a battery, is to ground the output stud on the generator. This will keep the output at 0 so it can't cook the wires inside.

[cpf240]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

If the generator has been run for more than a couple minutes while not connected to the battery, it most likely is burned up. It's so easy to just run a jumper wire from the cutout to the starter switch, if need be. The way to save a generator, when not connected to a battery, is to ground the output stud on the generator. This will keep the output at 0 so it can't cook the wires inside.

Well, I've no idea how much run time it has had while disconnected. I know it has been driven around a parking lot a time or two, and probably idled a bit.

When grounding it out, does the wire run from the terminal on the cutout, or does the cutout need to be removed?

If I take a chance on it and hook the cutout to the starter switch, is there a chance that if it is fried, it will cause a short, or other issues beyond just not charging?

Assuming it is fried, how big a job is it to repair/rebuild?

[cpf240]

Got some time to fiddle around with the car today.

First up was to drain the coolant - not sure what it was, but it was a bit milky and there might have been some oil in there. I'm hoping it is just something left over from whatever work was done on it years ago, though the #3 & 4 plugs are rusty on the threads and tips. No sign of water on the dipstick. I'm hoping the worst case is a head gasket.

I poured in a 50/50 mix that should keep things happy until the temps warm up around here. Pulled the plugs, sprayed fogging oil in the cylinders and spun the engine a bit in the hopes that that would circulate the coolant a bit.

While the coolant was draining, I decided to ground out the generator, on the off chance that maybe it will still work one day. I went from the output stud to one of the cutout mounting screws, which I think should do the job.

At some point I went inside and ordered a rebuild kit for the carburetor from Renners. Nice folks to talk to, and lots of knowledge.

Lastly, I pulled some miscellaneous bits and pieces out of the trunk/rumble seat area. So far, I've identified the following:

2 battery hold down brackets
1 hand crank / lug wrench
2 door window anti-rattle strips
2 pieces of trim for the top
1 metal part that seems to go above the dash panel

Not sure on the other bits. Any ideas? What is the bracket/hinge piece for?

I also found the wood frame for the bottom of the seat. Yay! Another question I have is that the wood frame for the seat back doesn't seem to align properly with the L brackets at the bottom. The metal part that the L brackets are attached to seems to be loose, so perhaps it is not installed properly, or is just sitting there. I do have the tabs at the top of the frame slotted into the wood piece in front of the package shelf.

Also got notice today that more parts for/from this car will be shipped to me shortly. Can't wait to see what arrives.

[Tom Wesenberg]

You should see 3 holes in the header for the mirror bracket to attach to.

Do you have the dealer's parts catalogs? They can be a big help in matching up parts.

[cpf240]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

You should see 3 holes in the header for the mirror bracket to attach to.

Do you have the dealer's parts catalogs? They can be a big help in matching up parts.

So that bracket thingy is for the mirror, awesome!

My father had collected some reference materials, and I'm waiting for them to arrive so I don't duplicate anything. The Bratton's catalog has been very helpful so far, and a few others are on their way.

Thanks!

[cpf240]

I've received a few boxes of various parts, both old and new. After a lot of searching through the Bratton's and Snyder's catalogs and websites, plus other vendors sites, I have some parts I can't identify. There is a good chance they don't even belong to this car. Any help identifying these would be greatly appreciated!

I don't have a parts book yet, and have been told that even they don't show images of all the parts. Can someone recommend one that does?


Edited to remove two identified parts. Thanks to Tom and RJV.

[Tom Wesenberg]

The switch would be some aftermarket part for fog lights, electric fan, etc, or someone may have used it as an ignition switch if they didn't have to worry about theft.

[cpf240]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

The switch would be some aftermarket part for fog lights, electric fan, etc, or someone may have used it as an ignition switch if they didn't have to worry about theft.

Thank you!

I'm looking at my options. I'd love to have it be original, but that looks expensive. For a occasional use, no show car, I think I'll target the middle of the road after market switches.

I need to find a speedo as well, as it seems most places want a core, which I don't have. I'll check the ads here, and then maybe that evil auction site..

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by cpf240

...I need to find a speedo as well, as it seems most places want a core, which I don't have. I'll check the ads here, and then maybe that evil auction site..

Check with PapaNick over on the Swap Meet. He doesn't always require a core.

Also, if you do buy one on eBay, count on it being only a core.

The voice of experience talking here!

[cpf240]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Check with PapaNick over on the Swap Meet. He doesn't always require a core.

Also, if you do buy one on eBay, count on it being only a core.

The voice of experience talking here!

I was just looking at those, thanks!

[Randy in ca]

Picture #3 (top right in post #31) appears to be a rear spare tire carrier brace. See pictures about half way down in this link from Vince Falter's site:

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/trunkconstruction.htm

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[cpf240]

Originally Posted by Randy in ca

Picture #3 (top right in post #31) appears to be a rear spare tire carrier brace. See pictures about half way down in this link from Vince Falter's site:

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/trunkconstruction.htm

-

Thank you for the link, that does indeed look like the part I have. Looking through various catalogs and sites, I wasn't able to find an exact match. Given that this car was in the process of changing the stock trunk to a rumble seat, that is probably what it is.

[Dave in MD]

Picture number one has the two braces that go from the wood in the B pillar to the belt rail wood. I agree with Randy on picture number three. Picture number six might be an exhaust tip but not used on a Model A originally. The other items I do not recognize.
Dave

[cpf240]

Originally Posted by Dave in MD

Picture number one has the two braces that go from the wood in the B pillar to the belt rail wood. I agree with Randy on picture number three. Picture number six might be an exhaust tip but not used on a Model A originally. The other items I do not recognize.
Dave

Thank you! Now I know where to focus my searches. I don't suppose you know the part number for those two braces? They don't seem to match any items on Bratton's or Snyder's sites, or a few others I've checked.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Pictures in #31, notice the hood bracket (anti-rattler) with the missing rubber in my picture.