The Ford Barn

30aadoodlebug · 10-18-2017, 08:42 PM

So awhile ago I posted about the 1950 Country Squire my uncle gave me, and how I was removing the hot-rod components and bringing it back to stock. I have a great 50 engine Im putting in the car, and everything has checked out well with the block thus far. Im in the final stages of the tear down process and the damn oil pump wont let go. the retaining screw is out, and it wont budge. The engine is frozen BTW, so Im guessing this has something to do with it.

Thanks in advance,

Jon

JSeery · 10-18-2017, 09:56 PM

A fairly common problem. Sometimes they just don't want to come off.

Fordestes · 10-19-2017, 12:11 AM

I use a good penetrant and turn the pump body with a pipe wrench, once it starts to move I use more penetrant and turn some more till it decides to give up. the oil pump housing can break if too much force is used, I had one do that so I wound up removing the pin in the drive gear of the pump shaft then removing the shaft and threading the shaft bore , I made a make sift puller from a washer and a short length of pipe, screwed the puller rod into the pump body and started to remove the broken pump housing, all the time spraying and tapping on the body. Otherwise I was going to try and plasma cut the broken pump body out. Good luck!

A bones · 10-19-2017, 02:06 AM

How about a little heat on the block? (or,,, a lot) I can't tell you I've been there but, that is the life of the engine. Good Luck

Look for a pair of those long jawed locking pliers that are used for welding.

Lawrie · 10-19-2017, 02:58 AM

If I was going to use the block ,I wouldnt be putting any heat on it. I have removed a few rust stick pumps ,use a pipe wrench to try and turn the pump,it it snaps off cut the shaft and weld a puller on to that and pull it out.
Lawrie

30aadoodlebug · 10-19-2017, 06:32 AM

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All great pieces of advice! I will give it a shot tonight when I get home from work. Thanks for all the input, and I'll let you know how I make out either way.

Jon

JSeery · 10-19-2017, 06:33 AM

I agree that applying heat to a block can be tricky unless you really understand what your doing.

A bones · 10-19-2017, 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSeery

I agree that applying heat to a block can be tricky unless you really understand what your doing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lawrie

If I was going to use the block ,I wouldnt be putting any heat on it. I have removed a few rust stick pumps ,use a pipe wrench to try and turn the pump,it it snaps off cut the shaft and weld a puller on to that and pull it out.
Lawrie

Copy that. I wasn't thinking there would be harm if one took care. You gentlemen, however, know the way. I'll retain this knowledge 'til its my turn to do one. Thank you.

JSeery · 10-19-2017, 07:47 AM

Cast iron can be tricky if it is not heated evenly. Concentrated heat in one area expands the metal at a different rate than the surrounding area and can lead to cracks.

Mart · 10-19-2017, 07:52 AM

Never tried it myself but I think someone mentioned attaching a slide hammer to the pump body using the four 1/4" screws that hold the end plate on. I think this is if you want to reuse the pump and not damage it. I also heard and have followed the advice to use a good used pump rather than a new one.

Choices, choices...

Mart.

kegmon · 10-19-2017, 10:45 AM

If you can get it to turn at all, keep dousing it with fluid (a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid) and just work it back and forth gently a little bit at a time. I got impatient and eventually mine came out in pieces. Ended up prying it with a tire tool from the inside after I removed the idler gear. I like the slide hammer idea that Mart mentioned should I ever do another one.

markdtn · 10-20-2017, 10:12 AM

I have used rubbing alcohol to get stuck distributors moving enough to get out. You need something thin to get the process started.

Ol' Ron · 10-20-2017, 06:58 PM

50/50 works for me.

V12Bill · 10-20-2017, 07:49 PM

Just removed a stuck oil pump a few weeks ago. I started with a a very large pair of channel lock pliers (16" handles) and worked the pump back and forth until it started to move. When it started to move, I put more pressure on it and moved it as far as surrounding pieces would permit and then started to pull it up as I moved it back and forth. Pump has now been cleaned and is back in the rebuilt engine.

10-18-2017, 08:42 PM	#1
30aadoodlebug Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Boxborough, MA Posts: 274	Stuck Oil Pump in a 50 Engine So awhile ago I posted about the 1950 Country Squire my uncle gave me, and how I was removing the hot-rod components and bringing it back to stock. I have a great 50 engine Im putting in the car, and everything has checked out well with the block thus far. Im in the final stages of the tear down process and the damn oil pump wont let go. the retaining screw is out, and it wont budge. The engine is frozen BTW, so Im guessing this has something to do with it. Thanks in advance, Jon

10-18-2017, 09:56 PM	#2
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: Stuck Oil Pump in a 50 Engine A fairly common problem. Sometimes they just don't want to come off. Last edited by JSeery; 10-19-2017 at 07:42 AM.

10-19-2017, 12:11 AM	#3
Fordestes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 886	Re: Stuck Oil Pump in a 50 Engine I use a good penetrant and turn the pump body with a pipe wrench, once it starts to move I use more penetrant and turn some more till it decides to give up. the oil pump housing can break if too much force is used, I had one do that so I wound up removing the pin in the drive gear of the pump shaft then removing the shaft and threading the shaft bore , I made a make sift puller from a washer and a short length of pipe, screwed the puller rod into the pump body and started to remove the broken pump housing, all the time spraying and tapping on the body. Otherwise I was going to try and plasma cut the broken pump body out. Good luck!

10-19-2017, 02:06 AM	#4
A bones Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: CLAYTON DE Posts: 1,283	Re: Stuck Oil Pump in a 50 Engine How about a little heat on the block? (or,,, a lot) I can't tell you I've been there but, that is the life of the engine. Good Luck Look for a pair of those long jawed locking pliers that are used for welding. __________________ Enjoy yer day. Tom Hate can't fix what it started. Last edited by A bones; 10-19-2017 at 02:22 AM.

10-19-2017, 02:58 AM	#5
Lawrie Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Qld, Australia Posts: 4,215	Re: Stuck Oil Pump in a 50 Engine If I was going to use the block ,I wouldnt be putting any heat on it. I have removed a few rust stick pumps ,use a pipe wrench to try and turn the pump,it it snaps off cut the shaft and weld a puller on to that and pull it out. Lawrie

10-19-2017, 06:32 AM	#6
30aadoodlebug Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Boxborough, MA Posts: 274	Re: Stuck Oil Pump in a 50 Engine Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) All great pieces of advice! I will give it a shot tonight when I get home from work. Thanks for all the input, and I'll let you know how I make out either way. Jon

10-19-2017, 06:33 AM	#7
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: Stuck Oil Pump in a 50 Engine I agree that applying heat to a block can be tricky unless you really understand what your doing.

10-19-2017, 07:47 AM	#9
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: Stuck Oil Pump in a 50 Engine Cast iron can be tricky if it is not heated evenly. Concentrated heat in one area expands the metal at a different rate than the surrounding area and can lead to cracks.

10-19-2017, 07:52 AM	#10
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,750	Re: Stuck Oil Pump in a 50 Engine Never tried it myself but I think someone mentioned attaching a slide hammer to the pump body using the four 1/4" screws that hold the end plate on. I think this is if you want to reuse the pump and not damage it. I also heard and have followed the advice to use a good used pump rather than a new one. Choices, choices... Mart.

10-19-2017, 10:45 AM	#11
kegmon Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 41	Re: Stuck Oil Pump in a 50 Engine If you can get it to turn at all, keep dousing it with fluid (a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid) and just work it back and forth gently a little bit at a time. I got impatient and eventually mine came out in pieces. Ended up prying it with a tire tool from the inside after I removed the idler gear. I like the slide hammer idea that Mart mentioned should I ever do another one.

10-20-2017, 10:12 AM	#12
markdtn Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Chattanooga, TN Posts: 139	Re: Stuck Oil Pump in a 50 Engine I have used rubbing alcohol to get stuck distributors moving enough to get out. You need something thin to get the process started.

10-20-2017, 06:58 PM	#13
Ol' Ron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chester Vt Posts: 8,860	Re: Stuck Oil Pump in a 50 Engine 50/50 works for me.

10-20-2017, 07:49 PM	#14
V12Bill Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mt. Holly,NJ Posts: 1,822	Re: Stuck Oil Pump in a 50 Engine Just removed a stuck oil pump a few weeks ago. I started with a a very large pair of channel lock pliers (16" handles) and worked the pump back and forth until it started to move. When it started to move, I put more pressure on it and moved it as far as surrounding pieces would permit and then started to pull it up as I moved it back and forth. Pump has now been cleaned and is back in the rebuilt engine.