Paint questions

[Terry, NJ]

I'm priming the hood of my red wheeled coupe I'm having some problems!
1} I primed it the first time and when it dried, there were a lot of small Pimples/blisters in the paint. Are these water droplets from the compressor? Thinking maybe they were, I drained the line and tank for the second coat and they were gone.
2] I gave it a second coat yesterday and it came out rough. Instead of the paint being flat and smoothe, it was course and almost granular. I'm thinking that it was due to a setting on the gun. The paint was not atomizing properly, More thinner? Too much pressure? I'm too new to painting to be sure of anything.
The paint I'm using is PPG Shop line, JR 375, if that means anything!
Terry

[Bill in NJ]

I suggest you call the PPG hot line. They are very help full to me.

[J Franklin]

If I were you I would find a few things around the house that could use some paint. Maybe a wheelbarrow or something of that nature and practice with different settings, pressures, and technique. When you have things worked out then paint the hood.

[Dollar Bill]

1. I think you nailed the cause for your pimples/blisters. If you plan on painting very much, an air dryer would be a worthwhile investment.

2. Sandpaper finish could be a number of things. First one comes to mind is gun was too far from the paint surface allowing paint to dry before it reached the panel. Next concern would be not enough thinner. Measure everything until you get the hang of it.

What model gun are your using and what pressure are your spraying?

That's good primer you're using - Don't scrimp on the paint respirator.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Terry, you have too many variables in what you are telling us here for any of us to give you accurate advice. First off, 375 is an epoxy, -which in my opinion is not what you need to be going with but your car/your way. Epoxy does not sand well. Look for an urethane or synthetic high-build primer instead.

It is possible that water was present however you generally can see if bead up just like water. Based on your saying pimples & blisters, I am going to say it probably has more to do with the solvents you are using. Most of those cheaper lines of paint use bizarre types of solvents such as acetone, naphtha, etc., -but they don't work with thinner or reducers. Also, most of those cheap epoxies have a cross-link time of 15-30 minutes between the time it is mixed until the time you can spray it. Did you wait the prescribed amount of time??

As far as it coming out rough, You did not mention what type of gun or what tip size. Knowing that helps us know what cap pressure to use. The idea is to use enough pressure to properly atomize (bust-up the paint) where it can lay down smoothly. I would probably use a 1.6 cap on a HVLP gun with approximately 10 PSI at the cap. Depending on the gun, this will probably be 30-40 PSI where it enters the gun to keep the volume there. A smaller cap will require less gun pressure to maintain that cap pressure. You also need to check the recoat window on that paint as some of those can be around 48 hours.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

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Terry,
I was very FORTUNATE, I got LOTS of PRACTICE, painting Farm Equipment. I got REALLY GOOD!
We were using Synthetic Enamel, with Lacquer Reducer.
Bill Smooth

[Jeff/Illinois]

Bill, was that with a brush

[Terry, NJ]

Hey Guys! Thanks to everyone for their advice. Brent, You are right on the money When you said "Epoxy doesn't sand well"! This stuff sands like stone. I really don't like it, but I was told a few years ago to use an epoxy primer. I bought it in qts and only opened 1 so maybe they'll take the others back. Can you recommend a good paint for someone like me ?(minimal experience, minimal equipment, minimal cash) I think I have too much pressure at the gun (HVLP) and I'm sure the nozzle settings aren't right. But, I got a better job the second time than the first. I believe the window is about 72 hrs for this paint, so I'm sneaking up on the optimal.
Terry

[Terry, NJ]

Don't laugh, When I worked at the marina, We had a guy who could lay a coat of varnish on the Mahogany speed boats with a brush that would make you swear it was sprayed. That is when he was sober and not in jail.
Terry

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

Bill, was that with a brush

[ursus]

Originally Posted by Terry, NJ

Don't laugh, When I worked at the marina, We had a guy who could lay a coat of varnish on the Mahogany speed boats with a brush that would make you swear it was sprayed. That is when he was sober and not in jail.
Terry

I knew a painter like that fellow. He claimed that breathing the fumes from varnish and shellac made him very thirsty for beer. He was also very thirsty on his days off.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

Bill, was that with a brush

HEAVENS NO!!! It's all in the wrist/trigger action.
I've painted MANY cars with Synthetic Enamel & could still do a PRIMO job, in my driveway! Spraying Synthetic Enamel is NOT an EASY task, just ask ANY Painter----I can lay on a "perfect" shiny, smooth job that requires NO Color sanding, Buffing or Anything! I also take pride in my MASKING.
I won an "AWARD" for the repainting of a restoration of one of the FIRST International Cotton Picking Machines. It's called "OLD RED" & is on display in the Smithsonian Institute!!---My Dad, Chief, was the first operator of it, here in the San Joaquin Valley!!! (PROUD SON!) There's a lots about me, that you DON'T know!!!---IF you have 3 days to spare, come by & I'll tell you my "SECRETS", while the Dog entertains you.--LOL
Bill Shinyandsmooth

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I knew a painter who put 4 drops of Lacquer Thinner in his COFFEE! REALLY!
Bill W.

[Beauford]

Terry....to add, also clean your surface well. You can get what your saying from grease. Also, gun closer and slower speed will clear up dry spots. This is my first paint job ever and have learned a bit and have repainted quite a bit. LOL

[SeaSlugs]

Could be oil in your air if your compressor leaks...

[jb-ob]

Terry,

How old is your catalyst for the epoxy primer? You mentioned you bought the primer years ago.

Two part paint 'cat', once opened, has a shelf life and once it has soured your primer will come out as if you had mixed sand in with it.

The same applies to the cream hardener you get with bondo. If the hardener has gone bad, bondo will spread as if there was sand mixed with it.

Something else to consider. JB

[2manycars]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

HEAVENS NO!!! It's all in the wrist/trigger action.
I've painted MANY cars with Synthetic Enamel & could still do a PRIMO job, in my driveway! Spraying Synthetic Enamel is NOT an EASY task, just ask ANY Painter----I can lay on a "perfect" shiny, smooth job that requires NO Color sanding, Buffing or Anything! I also take pride in my MASKING.
I won an "AWARD" for the repainting of a restoration of one of the FIRST International Cotton Picking Machines. It's called "OLD RED" & is on display in the Smithsonian Institute!!---My Dad, Chief, was the first operator of it, here in the San Joaquin Valley!!! (PROUD SON!) There's a lots about me, that you DON'T know!!!---IF you have 3 days to spare, come by & I'll tell you my "SECRETS", while the Dog entertains you.--LOL
Bill Shinyandsmooth

Bill, I wish you lived close by so we could visit.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

When Chuck was doing Minervas' fenders, his BLACK Synthetic paint wouldn't mix up little globlets, in the paint. He got some more & it was OK. He added a hardener to it & after 3 days in the sun, he cut & polished it. The body was OLD/ROUGH Lacquer, from years back. He cut & polished it & the WHOLE car looked like a TOTAL Re-paint!!!
On the first paint, I suggested he put it in his Wifes' BLENDER, I won't tell what he replied?????
Bill W.