Rear spring

[jrd-28]

I've got a '28 which I'm slowly going over and cleaning up. I want to get the rear spring out, so that the frame and spring can each be cleaned up. I've read a lot about how dangerous that thing is, and want to make sure I don't do something stupid.

The rear end is out, so no tension on the spring. It *looks* like I should be able to just back off the nuts on the two big U bolts holding the spring into the frame. Is that a bad idea? If it's not safe to simply unbolt it as is (with the tension off) what's the correct technique to avoid damage or injury?

Thanks in advance ...

[RawhideKid]

From what I have read, if it is already unhooked from the rear end, as long as the center bolt is still intact, you should be fine removing it from the chassis.

If it was me, I would place a C-clamp on either side of center just to be on the safe side before you remove it. It is still under tension even without being attached to the rear end.

My wooden nickle worth.

[1955cj5]

When I took mine out I used both C-clamps and a couple short lengths of chain, having read the warnings here on the forum.

I had a replacement center bolt. The bolt comes much longer than needed so I used it to slowly release the tension on the spring while slowly relaxing the clamps and chains. I used the reverse process to re-assemble...

It has quite a lot of tension and power even though it is no longer attached to the axle..

I took out several leaves as you can see.....

[Tom Endy]

The safe way to remove a Model A rear spring is as follows:

With the frame sitting on jack stands at the rear install a proper spring spreader and spread the spring slightly.

With a floor jack under the banjo unhook the spring shackles. The rear axle assembly can now be lowered out of the way.

Collapse the spring spreader and remove it. The spring is now no longer lethal. Some amount of tension remains in the leaf stack, but it is very little.

You can now unbolt the four bolts that hold the spring to the car with the U-bolts and hangers and remove it from the car.

If all you are going to do is clean it you don't need to take the spring apart and it poses no danger.

If you plan to take it apart for more cleaning and grinding off of the witness marks where the leafs rub. you should put a large C-clamp on either side of the center bolt. Remove the bolt, then back off on the clamps. The spring tension that is in the stack is minimal it will scar you more than hurt you if you try to take it apart with out C-clamps. When you put it back together install a new center bolt. The suppliers provide them twice as long as necessary to aid in pulling the leafs together. It makes the job easier if you use the C-clams to pull the assembly together when running the nut down. Cut off the excess of the bolt and peen the end to keep the nut from backing off.

Reinstall the spring back into the car the reverse of how it was removed.

It is extremely dangerous to remove the rear axle assembly from a Model A with the spring still attached. You are betting your life that the head on the 3\8 center bolt will not pop off and release a calamity of spring leafs into the air.

Tom Endy

[Terry, NJ]

The problem comes in the form of a rusted away center bolt. It may look ok at the exposed bolt ends, but the shank may have had 80+ years to rust away. I recently took mine out and luckily the bolt was intact and held. Also, Once you have it out, Check the bushings at the ends and the wear on the shackle (U) bolts. These are usually worn and they're easy to replace while the spring is out. Also, I stand the spring on end a put oil on the leaves and let it saturate down between the leaves. If you're disassembling the spring, Just grease the springs as you assemble them.
Terry

[jrd-28]

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Thanks all for the advice.

My center bolt appears to be completely missing. It sounds like I should install something there before I do anything else. Then it should be safe to take that the spring out and apart.

[Beauford]

I used a tow strap wrapped around the axle and rear of frame.(keeps spring from going anywhere) I had to cut off shackles as they were rusted solid. All it did was just pop a little at each side when cut. After all the scares I got on here I was waiting for something more dramatic. Now maybe there is this HUGE power stored in fresh springs but it was childs play with mine. Just be safe.

[Terry, NJ]

You were damn lucky! Don't expect that on the next one. Look at the pics of my home made spreader (3/4 " sched 40 pipe and 3/4" X 10 Ready rod. Bent like a pretzel In my album "My A". In album "My other Coupe" there's a picture of the new spreader I just made of 1 1/4" chrome moly. scrap.
Terry

[Beauford]

Not going to be a next time in my life with this car. Everything is new!! HAHAHA

[100IH]

Let's clarify something. A rear spring completely assembled and intact IS under high tension with the body off and the axle out. Since your center bolt is gone, the upper leaves must be partly relaxed but not totally. If you were to reassemble just the lower leaf to the axle, it would be a very difficult one man job. A spring spreader would be called for then, and would be a must if the rest of the spring pack was assembled. If you can't put it back together without the tool, why not buy or borrow one now.

[jrd-28]

Well, I did get the spring out. Turns out I was wrong, there was a center bolt there, it just looked like there wasn't one because the top was all rust, and not coming up through the hole in the frame member.

I used some big clamps, got the U bolts loose, and slowly backed everything out until there was no obvious tension, then dropped the spring out of the frame.

I think after I pull it apart and clean everything up, I'm going to use the long-center-bolt trick to keep the leaves under control.

Thanks all for your advice.

[1955cj5]

Good Work!

When I put mine back together I used some graphite spray between the leaves...

That made it pretty "springy" when hitting small bumps or low spots going through intersections.

I finally put shocks on.

The shocks were planned anyway but the fewer leaves( from 13 to 8) and lubricated spring made them happen a little sooner..I may put a leaf back someday...

This is what I used. It dries almost immediately.

There are other similar products..Slip Plate is one...

[RawhideKid]

After you posted those pictures and I counted 13 leaves in your spring, I did some searching and found that the most I could find listed for the rear was 10 leaves, and that was for everything but the Roadster and Coupe.

You may want to leave a couple of those leaves out when you reassemble that.

Another wooden nickle worth.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Phaeton had 8 leaves.
I don't know why someone would make a 13 leaf rear spring.

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Phaeton had 8 leaves.
I don't know why someone would make a 13 leaf rear spring.

Maybe to carry a heavier load.

Bob

[1955cj5]

In the JS page 4-5 there is a chart, and there was a 13 leaf A-5560F for the 130 A & B Canadian...

Why a 29 ccpu had a 13 leaf is anybody's guess...It had 12 in the front if I remember right.

Here is the thread where I removed the spring and replaced the broken rear cross member.....I'd guess they were hauling something darn heavy to break that cross member...

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182182