1932 BB Dump

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Pete,


You rascal; you switched the photo from a red '33 to a very handsome blue '32!

Guilty!....

[DavidG]

Robert,


The horn, however, is for a Model A, including where it is attached.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Robert,


The horn, however, is for a Model A, including where it is attached.

Appears to have a 25 Louvre hood??? I would imagine more of a common item on a truck of that nature and the expected loads to be carried? OR was that a "stock" item on a BB truck?


*****CORRECTION******* had to get the magnifying glass and count and its 21 NOT 25


SORRY

[sugarmaker]

You guys are awesome! Has me looking and thinking, and I can barely tell them all apart!
That blue dump is very nice. I expect Redpond2's dump may look something like that in a year or so!
If things work out I would like to drool on his truck in BG in a week or so!
Anyone see a dump like he has?
Wait,,,,,listen,,,, does he have that B engine running??
I would have tried to fire mine up if it would have looked half that clean and fresh.
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

There were three different sets of hood sides used in U.S. production during the '32 model year. The first was a true twenty louver set, short lived due to its flimsiness, followed by the twenty louver hood with only the forward-most nineteen louvers actually open, and then the twenty-five louver variety late in the model year. The hood side in Pete's photo is likely the twenty/really nineteen variety which is by far the most common.

Not likely realized by many is the commonality of sheet metal and other components of '32s across the various categories of vehicles from the cowl forward. At any point in time during the model year, whatever hood version was in use in production was used on the passenger cars, commercial vehicles, and big trucks. The same goes for the firewall and front fenders (excluding big truck fenders with wells for side-mounted spares), the apron below the radiator shell, the radiator shell and grille and head lamps and head lamp bar (passenger cars and deluxe versions of commercial vehicles and big trucks).

That practice ended abruptly with the start of the '33 model year.

[Redpond2]

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Chris,

Between work being busy, which is good this project needs funds, this week and my loud shop time getting cut short with the little one asleep above me I haven't got much done on the old truck.

I did go to put the head and pan back on as everything is free (had some valves sticking but 50/50 took care of it) but realized the head gasket and oil pan gasket are both incorrect. the head gasket does not have holes for the little weep holes surrounding the head stud between cylinder 1 and 2. and the oil pan gasket looks completely wrong.

Also, it looks like the prior rebuild was cut short before any attention was given to the carburetor. on the carb, has anyone had luck with electrolysis on cleaning these up? or am I better off sending this to someone who really knows these old Zenith-2's? also is that cast piece in center supposed to look broken?

Did get some literature in, still waiting on some other books to show. Got some misc parts I found while scrolling eBay; hood latches, door hinge pins (Currently they are barn nails) and some tooling I needed.

Also took a wheel off and put it on my spare to check interference with the drivers door; really isn't any, door opens up about 90 degrees and leaves plenty of room to get in/out. Lucked out there!

Once I get the gaskets and the carb squared away, I don't see why I cant use an aux fuel tank and see what happens.

Did get a gift from the grandpa- He found some Kentucky 1932 license plates, talk about some icing on the cake when she's going down the road!

[DavidG]

Nathan,


Please do not invest any further effort in that carburetor as it is for a Model A and not for a Model B. There is a real performance difference between them.


Dave Renner of Manchester, MI is your best bet for four-cylinder carburetor work (rennerscorner.com).


The choke control is more important on a B four than it is on V8, accordingly, please share what you have.


Thanks.

[Redpond2]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Nathan,


Please do not invest any further effort in that carburetor as it is for a Model A and not for a Model B. There is a real performance difference between them.


Dave Renner of Manchester, MI is your best bet for four-cylinder carburetor work (rennerscorner.com).


The choke control is more important on a B four than it is on V8, accordingly, please share what you have.


Thanks.

thanks David for keeping me on the path, went down and got you some pictures of the choke cable, while down there I remembered the box the previous owner gave me with some misc. parts. in there was a carb in much better shape but I didn't pay it any mind since the zenith was what was bolted on. whats the chances this other carb (pictured below) is correct? it would sure be handy as its in much better shape.

[Bob C]

That also looks like a Model A head gasket, Snyder's has the head gasket.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...3956&cat=41691
I don't think anybody makes a head gasket shaped like the originals.
See the link to Vince's site. https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/ABc...asketguide.htm

[Redpond2]

Originally Posted by Bob C

That also looks like a Model A head gasket, Snyder's has the head gasket.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...3956&cat=41691
I don't think anybody makes a head gasket shaped like the originals.
See the link to Vince's site. https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/ABc...asketguide.htm

Yes, it is for an A but was in this B engine. vince's site was what lead me to look at the head gasket again and found it didn't have the steam holes in it.

somewhat cumbersome site the first time I got on but is chock full of info and not too bad at navigating once I figured out the method.

[DavidG]

Your second carburetor has the general appearance of the original, but appears to have die cast construction rather than cast iron. I'll see if I have any spares.


Unfortunately the end of your choke cable has been modified to fit that Model A carburetor in your early photos. There appears to be enough left of the original tip to bring it back to its original length and shape (half round without a notch).


Yes, Vince's site is outstanding and worth investing time in navigating it. We disagree on a few details, but nothing fundamental.

[Bob C]

The other carburetor you have is a Marvel Schebler / Allstate, Renner's has parts
for them.

[Redpond2]

Originally Posted by Bob C

The other carburetor you have is a Marvel Schebler / Allstate, Renner's has parts
for them.

Bob- thanks, If I don't get my hands on a good original one at this upcoming meet I at least know now I can get parts for this one and it should work.

Originally Posted by DavidG

Your second carburetor has the general appearance of the original, but appears to have die cast construction rather than cast iron. I'll see if I have any spares.


Unfortunately the end of your choke cable has been modified to fit that Model A carburetor in your early photos. There appears to be enough left of the original tip to bring it back to its original length and shape (half round without a notch).


Yes, Vince's site is outstanding and worth investing time in navigating it. We disagree on a few details, but nothing fundamental.

David- My choke cable measures out to about 32 1/2" a couple inches shorter than the specs I found on vince's site (34 1/2"). is this enough to cause problems and should be replaced or is the consensus this should probably be fine?

thanks,

[DavidG]

That 34 1/2" (actually 34 1/4") measurement is for the B-9700 cable assembly which is for passenger cars. BB-9700 was 32 3/4" and for the vehicles with shorter cowls (commercial vehicles and your truck). So what you have is the right starting point.


It can get a bit confusing with your truck having a mixture of parts with B part number prefixes and BB prefixes.

[Redpond2]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Please be aware that there is a distinct difference between early and late production four-cylinder wiring harnesses, both for the lighting/horn harness and the engine compartment/instrument panel harness. I raise this subject given that your engine number is sort of mid-year production and the best reproduction wiring source (Rhode Island Wiring) for '32 fours (in my opinion) has a current lead time of about four months.

Check on the inside of the left 'leg' of the instrument panel (between the panel and the inside of the firewall) to see if there is a fuse block present and if there is a switch knob marked 'dash light' on the lower center of the instrument panel or not. That information will dictate which lighting/horn wiring harness you need. Then check your starter motor to see if it uses a switch mounted directly on the starter motor or if there is just a threaded terminal stud for a connection with a cable from the switch mounted on the bottom of the back of the steering gear box. The former switch set up is operated by a steel cable running through the firewall into the left side of the steering column support bracket attached to the dash with a knob marked 'start' (surprise, surprise). The latter switch set up is operated by a rod through the #1 floor board with a mushroom-shaped end directly below the steering column.


I should have also noted that the starter motor/switch configuration directly affects which cable was used from the battery to the starter switch and whether or not there is a second short cable between the starter motor and the steering column-mounted switch in the later configuration.

Originally Posted by 51504bat

A couple of thoughts. First instead of PB Blaster try a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF. Second, given the lead time quoted for Rhode Island Wiring you might want to check out YandZ wiring. Quality original wiring and the around might be less if you you're in a hurry. JMO
https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/

David/5150,

I would like to revisit my wiring questions; to figure out if I need the early vs late year I have attached some pictures of whats left of my dash and dash light control switch. pictures were taken early this morning as is showcased with my intense concentration while trying to get good lighting/picture quality.

If YandZ has the correct harness; that will be the vendor I go with as I want this driving as soon as I can muster.

Also got the correct head gasket ordered from snyders and new driver side door hinge pins put in, got cut short on putting in the passenger side hinge pins, as it was the kids nap time and I was making far too much noise!

will continue chipping away at the little stuff while researching/shopping/ tackling the big stuff as time/parts availability permits.

[DavidG]

Except for the bulb socket, your dash light set up is not original so what you need are the early wiring harnesses (engine compartment/instrument panel harness and lamp/horn wiring harness). Also add the ammeter to your wanted list as the one there is not an original '32 ammeter, nor even usable.

[51504bat]

Originally Posted by Redpond2

David/5150,

I would like to revisit my wiring questions; to figure out if I need the early vs late year I have attached some pictures of whats left of my dash and dash light control switch. pictures were taken early this morning as is showcased with my intense concentration while trying to get good lighting/picture quality.

If YandZ has the correct harness; that will be the vendor I go with as I want this driving as soon as I can muster.

Also got the correct head gasket ordered from snyders and new driver side door hinge pins put in, got cut short on putting in the passenger side hinge pins, as it was the kids nap time and I was making far too much noise!

will continue chipping away at the little stuff while researching/shopping/ tackling the big stuff as time/parts availability permits.

Gene from YnZ wasn't at the swap meet on Saturday. I'll try to stop in on Tuesday when he usually is at work and see if he can shed some light on this. Even if they can produce the correct harness as referenced by DavidG they might be as backed up as the other manufacturers. More when I know.

[sugarmaker]

Nate,
Good pictures to start to document what you have, where your going, and where you have been, on the 32 dump truck project!
You have the A team working with you. It will take some time but you will get there. I did not see a picture of the carb side of the engine, or missed it. Do you have the distributor? Fuel pump?
Regards,
Chris

[Bored&Stroked]

If you haven't put the new head gasket and head on, then it would be a very good idea to pull the valves (obviously keeping track of what goes where), and inspect the valves faces and seats. Given that the engine sat for a long time, there may be rust on the ones that were open. I'd clean them well with some steel wool, inspect carefully and determine if any need to be touched up. If they all look good, then get some fine lapping compound (not coarse!) and lap them back in to ensure a good seal. This is not a big job (if everything is not rust pitted) and you'll know that all your valves will correctly seal. Now is the time!

[Redpond2]

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

Nate,
Good pictures to start to document what you have, where your going, and where you have been, on the 32 dump truck project!
You have the A team working with you. It will take some time but you will get there. I did not see a picture of the carb side of the engine, or missed it. Do you have the distributor? Fuel pump?
Regards,
Chris

Chris- I don't believe I've posted that side of the engine; lets fix that! I do have a distributor and fuel pump. with some of the other components on this block being wrong already, I'll post both fuel pump and distributor to check for correctness. (Distributor has $8 sharpied on it so I am sure its been replaced and with other A parts being put on it very well may be different than what I need)

I hadn't planned on any work today on this old truck, but as one does, I found myself in the garage after the family cookout.

finished getting door hinge pins install, got all wheels off without much trouble and got front hubs off before kiddo went down for the night. rears are a little tight and may require some percussion mechanics to free them- for another day when little eyes aren't closed. ( I abide by the "let a sleeping dog lie" carefully with young children) Found AA drums, and brake material/ hardware to be in good shape, will adjust once back together.

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

If you haven't put the new head gasket and head on, then it would be a very good idea to pull the valves (obviously keeping track of what goes where), and inspect the valves faces and seats. Given that the engine sat for a long time, there may be rust on the ones that were open. I'd clean them well with some steel wool, inspect carefully and determine if any need to be touched up. If they all look good, then get some fine lapping compound (not coarse!) and lap them back in to ensure a good seal. This is not a big job (if everything is not rust pitted) and you'll know that all your valves will correctly seal. Now is the time!

Bored&Stroked- this exact topic came up today with my grandpa. I had the Intake valve on cylinder #3 soaking in 50/50 and it kept wanting to stick slightly, with no luck as of today and this is the grungiest part of the engine as it doesn't look like it was touched in the "recent" rebuild. This has bothered because I would be a ripe fella to have to take it all back apart if it didn't work as it should when I was already this far in.

Conclusion: A model A friend with deep machinist background has agreed to do a proper valve job on this engine much better than grandpa and I feel we can pull off; I think this will complete the rebuild. I will also see if he will check if both head and block mating surface is true flat while he has it. I'm told I will "shit myself" when I walk into his shop.

with that said; this engine is now getting pulled. while it is out I'll be replacing the ring gear as there are about a dozen teeth with some damage and will have a good opportunity to take a look at clutch/ throwout bearing/ etc.

any other recommendations for Bill to check while this is at the machine shop??

thanks all for checking in and keeping me out of the weeds too much. everyones recommendations are taken seriously into my decision making on this project.