Convert to 12v

[Jims52F1]

I really want to convert my 52 F1 to 12volt as I’m redoing it. Does anyone know of an article that gives good guidance for this? Want to convert to electronic ignition, better lights, etc.


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[51504bat]

Try this:
https://vintageautogarage.com/how-to...c0223e68310bb1

[Jims52F1]

Thanks for taking time to send this link. Have a good day


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[19Fordy]

Do a search on "6 to 12V" and "12v conversion". Much valuable info appears. When I converted my 1940 Ford with an 8BA to 12V I used a Constant Voltage Reducer so I could continue to have the instruments and the gas tank sending unit and gauge operate on 6V. I am using a Pertronix ignition module. Avoid the Mallory Unilite Electronic ignition as the modules are poor quality and expensive. Read about it here:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...olt+conversion

[wga]

To go from 6 to 12 volts, you don't need to change your wires - 6-volt wiring is
twice the thickness required for an equivalent 12-volt circuit. But you do need
a 12-volt battery with the same or greater cold-crank amp rating as the 6-volt
battery it replaces. The 12-volt battery will most likely be standard polarity
(negative ground), but your old Ford is reverse polarity (positive ground).
Therefore you will have to reverse the polarity on selected polarity-sensitive
circuits and electrical devices.

You must address the charging system. You can install a 12-volt generator, but
an alternator is much more efficient. The 6-volt starter and solenoid work: The
starter will crank twice as fast, which means the engine should start more
easily, at the possible cost of slightly reduced starter life. One way to extend
starter life is to actually promote some voltage drop in the crank circuit by
installing a smaller and longer starter cable than standard.
In theory, you can keep the existing points distributor and just install a
12-volt coil-but if you're going to all this trouble to install a modern
electrical system, why not install a modern electronic ignition while you're at
it? Use a Bosch blue 12V coil, it is internally resisted. Pertronics makes a
Conversion to electronic. A good stock or modified GM distributor (8BA engine),
Mallory dual point with that Bosch coil is good for trouble free driving.
CharlieNY on this site for GM conversion distributors

You can retain most 6-volt switches, including the headlight switch, heater
switch, and ignition switch. However, you must replace all 6-volt bulbs -
including the headlights, taillights, brake lights, turn-signal lights, park
lights, and instrument panel and interior bulbs - with 12.volt equivalents. Also
replace the 6-volt turn-signal flasher with a 12.volt unit.
Finally, you'll have to deal with the 6-volt fuel gauges, electric oil and
coolant temperature gauges, electric clocks, and motors like the heater/blower
motor, A/C compressor clutch or solenoid, electric fuel pump, and/or
windshield-wiper motor [stock Fords typically used vacuum-powered windshield
wipers]. However, if it's a custom street rod, you could upgrade everything to
modern 12-volt equivalents. If it's an original factory car, the best solution
is to use an electronic voltage regulator.
Ron Francis is one source for a universal aftermarket version. It markets two
units: PN VR-l is designed to power low-current devices like instruments and
radios with less than 6 watts/channel output. [Positive-ground radios usually
don't respond well and should be converted to 12-volt operation by Antique Auto
Radio or replaced entirely by a modern 12-volt radio.] The higher-current rated
Francis unit (PNVR-4) can handle some electric wiper motors and early
air-conditioner solenoids; it has a 15-amp rated output capacity.
Fifth Avenue Antique Auto Parts is another source for transistorized voltage
drop units, conversion alternators, brackets, and instructions, and also sells
The Official 12-Volt Conversion Guide. The guide covers alternators and
generators, mounting brackets, pulleys, overdrives, ignition coils, and 6- to
12-volt bulb crossover numbers.
Yet another solution to your dash instruments is to install a factory-style
instrument cluster voltage regulator. Believe it or not, most '60s-vintage
Fords, even though they had 12-volt electrical systems, still retained 6-volt
electrical gauges-so there's a standard replacement regulator for those cars
that could also be used for your application. A common stock application would
be for a '68 Mustang (AutoZone PN IVR601 or equivalent). I've used the Ron Francis
VR1 for 15 years, and no issues.
The ammeter doesn't care if it sees 6 or 12 volts. However, if you're using a
high-amp alternator that puts out a lot more juice than the original generator,
consider converting to a voltmeter the old amp gauge won't read high enough to
accurately report the alternator's output, and it's really not a great idea to
run all that high-amp current through the dash anyway.
If you're handy with electronics and need to reduce voltage to a high-current
motor (over 15 amps' draw), it's possible to build your own custom voltage
regulator out of transistors, resistors, and a potentiometer. The
current-carrying capacity would equal the rated output of the power transistor
inside the unit. Newark Electronics is one source for high-end electronic
components. Otherwise, there's always the old wire-wound ceramic resistor
routine. But it's not a cure-all-only a crutch! Typical automotive-type
heavy-duty resistors may have up to a ±40 percent variance from their nominal
rating. This means a resistor could take that 12-volt input and output it to
any-thing from 2.4 to 8.4 volts. The input voltage can also vary widely
depending on the battery's state of charge, changing electrical demand in the
vehicle, and ambient temperature changes. Precision close-tolerance resistors
are available, but if the input voltage varies significantly, they may not be
able to handle the fluctuation in output without failure. And in any event
high-power resistors radiate lots of heat. Because of these drawbacks, resistors
should only be used as an absolute last resort, and only on devices like motors
that are robust enough to handle current fluctuations. They should not be used
for delicate instruments or electronic equipment.
SOURCES
CharlieNY on this site for GM converted distributors PM him for info
ANTIQUE AUTOMOBILE RADIO INC.; Palm Harbor, FL;
800/933-4926 or 727/785-8733;
www.radiosforoldcars.com
AUTOZONE; Memphis, TN; 800/288-6966;
www.autozone.com
FIFTH AVENUE ANTIQUE AUTO PARTS; Clay Center, KS;
785/632-3450; www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com
M.A.D. ENTERPRISES; Springville, CA; 559/539-7128;
www.madelectrical.com (not sure if he is in business, good info on the site)
MALLORY IGNITION www.malloryperformance.com
NEWARK; Chicago, IL (branches nationwide]; 800/4-
NEWARK or 773/784.5100; www.newark.com
PERTRONIX PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS; San Dimas, CA;
909/599.5955; www.pertronix.com
RON FRANCIS WIRING; Chester, PA; 800/292-1940 [sales]
or 866/330-1933 [support); www.ronfrancis.com

[Jims52F1]

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Thank you so much for taking time to send great information and resources. New to this group but really have seen value of great people who have great knowledge and are willing to share!


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[Scotty's 52 F3]

Here's what I did on my 52 F3. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-numbers.html

[19Fordy]

Scotty: Thanks for posting that excellent presentation with photos and descriptions

[GB SISSON]

I like the idea of the skinny starter cable. Of course you wouldn't want to over do this. Could someone advise a cable gauge and length?

[sugarmaker]

Jim,
If your building a driver for you. It's a good update. The 6 volt systems will work fine if all things are in good order. I like the upgrade to 12 volt as you mentioned.
Welcome to the Ford barn. We need some pictures.
Regards,
Chris

[MidState-Flathead]

Scotty - really appreciate the photo that you included

[Scotty's 52 F3]

I'm glad it helped. I get a lot from this forum so I try to contribute when I can.