The Noise From Hell! Gone But Not Forgotten.

[ct1932ford]

I am running a 48 Merc circle tack motor in my Deuce Coupe. I started getting a noise a while back. I have checked The starter motor! Under the intake. (thought the vent tube or oil baffles came loose). I also checked fuel pump area and I did find the tube had a bit of bent over area, fixed it and not there either. I did remove spark plugs and spayed some Marvel Mystery Oil in each hole and added 4oz. to the gas tank. The noise that before only started after the engine was up to temperature now happens right from the start. So it seems that the MMO has loosened up whatever it is. Valves? So today I removed the plugs and again sprayed MMO. It seems that is/was the problem. (Sticking Valves). The noise stopped ! This has been going on for some time. Motor sounds great and I can stop pulling my hair out! Wait I don't have any hair. Like to thank everyone that has posted similar issues/ problems. It does help. Also thanks to Mac Vanpelt for his phone call and input. I am going to do another dose of MMO and run it some more.

[1931 flamingo]

Use the MMO on a regular basis when you fuel up. It can't/won't hurt anything. FWIW
Paul in CT

[TomT/Williamsburg]

I use a small capful of Yamalube everytime I put gas in my roadster, my old 40 coupe with flathead, and the Nailhead engine I am building for my 5-window project t. This stuff works to combat this the harmful affects of ethanol in the gas we buy today and helps keep rings free. I have used this stuff for more than 6 years now and since the day I installed my carbs and fuel pump, I have never even touched my carbs or pump (other than to pull out pieces of tumbleweed but that's a story y'all know about). Don't know about sticky valves but now that they are not making noise, try this stuff out to keep them nice and quiet.

MMO is good and better than nothing but I did notice that my plugs seemed to foul a bit and my engines seem to like it better. Look it up, check it out - it can't hurt to try it. I buy it off eSlay.

PM me if you need further info ....

[ct1932ford]

Well the noise is back. The only way to quiet it down is to keep putting mmo in the sucker. I am running it in the gas but that is not doing it. So time to pull it out and take it apart. The noise is strange and even had some engine builders scratching their heads.

[J Franklin]

Have you determined where the noise is originating? I had a noise that I thought was engine but turned out otherwise. I can't think why MMO would kill it for a while and then it comes back unless it is smoothing out the running and stopping a secondary rattle or squeak.

[ct1932ford]

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It is in the motor for sure valve, lifter, ring ???

[corvette8n]

Can you isolate it with a stethoscope, I have a cheap one from JC Whitney I bought a long time ago, I think harbor freight has them also.

[J Franklin]

If you are sure and cannot isolate it I guess it is time for a thorough inspection. Be sure to return and tell us what you find.

[drolston]

If you don't have a stethoscope handy, use that really big long screwdriver; put the handle tight to your ear and touch the blade to the block between the head and intake manifold. Move along each cylinder and you will quickly isolate the culprit(s). It is a little less comfortable, but you can also use any metal rod of suitable length, or a string of 3/8 socket extensions.

[Lawson Cox]

You can also use a broom/mop handle or dowel as a stethoscope. Works just as well.

[alanwoodieman]

put about half a quart of MMO in the oil, spray some down the carb with the engine running--be sure to move to outside before doing this-don't ask me how I know to do this.
What oil are you using?

[ct1932ford]

I run Valvoline VR1 20/50 I have done the stethoscope thing. No luck. I drained the fluids today and will start taking it apart this week.

[Planojc]

Do a compression test.

[nobey]

Any news yet CT???

[joe 1950]

can you short it out by removing one ing. wire at a time to at least find the cyl. that noise is coming from remember the old saying take apart best find something or you haven't accomplished nothing

[ct1932ford]

Have been dealing with a sick 13 yr old Golden Retriever all week. Thought we were going to have to put him down until our vet discovered he had been bitten buy a spider and was very infected. Took Scout home yesterday with lots of meds. Doing better. Anyway have not pulled the motor out yet still taking things apart. Sun is finally out so will be cutting grass for awhile then off to see grandkids and hit LARS.
I will post when I have something!

[ct1932ford]

Well the dog is better so I had some time today and look what I found!

[drolston]

Could be a lot worse! Not that it matters now, but can't imagine why the stethoscope did not pinpoint that clatter maker. Glad the dog is better.

[Bored&Stroked]

You are a very fortunate man - I'm surprised the valve head didn't pop off and then beat the piston all to Hell. As a side note - a compression check would have shown that you had a bad cylinder (or a leak down test).

While it is most likely possible to 'fix' that one valve/seat, one has to be suspect of all the valve seats. If it was mine, I'd pull it, clean it, inspect it and make a decision as to whether or not to replace ALL the hard seats (may need to go to larger ones). You got lucky this time . . . you may not be so lucky the next time!

B&S

[Mart]

That happened to me. there were tell tale signs that it wasn't the first time it had happened. I bought an oversize seat and modified a tank cutter to ease the seat bore out to the required size. To be honest I don't know how I managed to fix it, but I did. The engine ran fine after. I did it in the car without stripping the motor.

Mart.

[ct1932ford]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

You are a very fortunate man - I'm surprised the valve head didn't pop off and then beat the piston all to Hell. As a side note - a compression check would have shown that you had a bad cylinder (or a leak down test).

While it is most likely possible to 'fix' that one valve/seat, one has to be suspect of all the valve seats. If it was mine, I'd pull it, clean it, inspect it and make a decision as to whether or not to replace ALL the hard seats (may need to go to larger ones). You got lucky this time . . . you may not be so lucky the next time!

B&S

By the noise I am sure other valve seats are also lose. I plan on taking the motor completely apart at this point. It is time. I knew I was living on the edge. Plus the trans needs some work so may as well do it all.
Gives me something to do besides cut grass in the summer.

[Bored&Stroked]

If you replace all the seats (recommended), you should machine the block to a larger OD seat size. BUT - many of the valve parts houses supply new seats with a thicker/taller height than stock. Some machine shops make the mistake of re-machining the seat pockets DEEPER as well as wider (to account for the thickness of the new seats). They should NOT do this!

The right way is to only go as deep as the original seats and then use a carbide cutter to cut the height down to the correct height/depth (from above). Once the height is correct, then additional cutters are used to cut the new 3 or 5 angle valve seat.

My machine shop does all of this in a milling machine - with a special 'main bearing support saddle' that is used to align the block and insure that all valves and both sides are consistent. Also, the valve angle (which also means seat angle) is DIFFERENT on one side to the next - this is how Ford designed the engine. The valve angles are different for early versus later 24 stud engines. If you need any info, just ping me.

[ct1932ford]

Thanks for the info!

[scooder]

Carefully inspect for cracks from the seat cut out to the bore. Lots of seats come loose because of these cracks.
Martin.