The Ford Barn

ct1932ford · 06-06-2017, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

You are a very fortunate man - I'm surprised the valve head didn't pop off and then beat the piston all to Hell. As a side note - a compression check would have shown that you had a bad cylinder (or a leak down test).

While it is most likely possible to 'fix' that one valve/seat, one has to be suspect of all the valve seats. If it was mine, I'd pull it, clean it, inspect it and make a decision as to whether or not to replace ALL the hard seats (may need to go to larger ones). You got lucky this time . . . you may not be so lucky the next time!

B&S

By the noise I am sure other valve seats are also lose. I plan on taking the motor completely apart at this point. It is time. I knew I was living on the edge. Plus the trans needs some work so may as well do it all.
Gives me something to do besides cut grass in the summer.

Bored&Stroked · 06-06-2017, 07:33 PM

If you replace all the seats (recommended), you should machine the block to a larger OD seat size. BUT - many of the valve parts houses supply new seats with a thicker/taller height than stock. Some machine shops make the mistake of re-machining the seat pockets DEEPER as well as wider (to account for the thickness of the new seats). They should NOT do this!

The right way is to only go as deep as the original seats and then use a carbide cutter to cut the height down to the correct height/depth (from above). Once the height is correct, then additional cutters are used to cut the new 3 or 5 angle valve seat.

My machine shop does all of this in a milling machine - with a special 'main bearing support saddle' that is used to align the block and insure that all valves and both sides are consistent. Also, the valve angle (which also means seat angle) is DIFFERENT on one side to the next - this is how Ford designed the engine. The valve angles are different for early versus later 24 stud engines. If you need any info, just ping me.

ct1932ford · 06-06-2017, 09:08 PM

Thanks for the info!

scooder · 06-07-2017, 07:33 AM

Carefully inspect for cracks from the seat cut out to the bore. Lots of seats come loose because of these cracks.
Martin.

06-06-2017, 07:33 PM	#22
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,064	Re: The Noise From Hell! Gone But Not Forgotten. If you replace all the seats (recommended), you should machine the block to a larger OD seat size. BUT - many of the valve parts houses supply new seats with a thicker/taller height than stock. Some machine shops make the mistake of re-machining the seat pockets DEEPER as well as wider (to account for the thickness of the new seats). They should NOT do this! The right way is to only go as deep as the original seats and then use a carbide cutter to cut the height down to the correct height/depth (from above). Once the height is correct, then additional cutters are used to cut the new 3 or 5 angle valve seat. My machine shop does all of this in a milling machine - with a special 'main bearing support saddle' that is used to align the block and insure that all valves and both sides are consistent. Also, the valve angle (which also means seat angle) is DIFFERENT on one side to the next - this is how Ford designed the engine. The valve angles are different for early versus later 24 stud engines. If you need any info, just ping me.

06-06-2017, 09:08 PM	#23
ct1932ford Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: CT. Posts: 596	Re: The Noise From Hell! Gone But Not Forgotten. Thanks for the info! __________________ A man should do what he thinks best! "The Duke"

06-07-2017, 07:33 AM	#24
scooder Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 2,593	Re: The Noise From Hell! Gone But Not Forgotten. Carefully inspect for cracks from the seat cut out to the bore. Lots of seats come loose because of these cracks. Martin.