The Ford Barn

Bobpro · 05-21-2021, 11:44 AM

Earlier I posted a HEADLIGHT ISSUE message on my 1930 Ford Model A CCPU. After much effort to determine the cause, without resolution, I resorted to Plan B, and ordered, all from Bert's Model A Center, a good quality Main Wire Harness (2 bulb), a good quality USA made Light Switch, new 2-bulb Headlight wiring, and new plastic Headlight Plugs. I have now installed, and apparently resolved my first issue. However, I now have another problem - Light switch rod positions are not correct. I am aware of the correrct positions, namely, 6 o'clock, off; 5, dim; 4, high; and 7, park/cowl (which I do not have on the CCPU). But what I now have is: 4, High; 5, High; 6, Off; and 7, Dim. Am I correct, that I should have NOTHING at the 7 o'clock position?
The Light Switch is in the proper position, with the drain hole to the bottom. The notch in the plastic disc on the end of the Main Wire Harness is located on the bottom. All were installed with the light switch rod held in the 6 o'clock position.
I am baffled as to what to correct, look at next. Any and all suggestions are appreciated. Bob

john charlton · 05-21-2021, 12:01 PM

If you have the single bulb reflector then on 7 the main bulbs high or low should not glow even dimly . If just the high beam element lights on 4 and 5 then there is a fault somewhere . I do not use the original style repro connector plugs they are pain and give troubles shorts etc etc .I use the fool proof rubber covered steel sleeve connectors which fit snugly in the conduit connector end . Swap to this style the junky original style could be the cause of your problem .

John in stormy Suffolk County England .

Bob C · 05-21-2021, 12:45 PM

If you have two bulb headlights the 7 o'clock position should be the small
upper parking light bulb.

Ruth · 05-21-2021, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john charlton

I do not use the original style repro connector plugs they are pain and give troubles shorts etc etc. I use the fool proof rubber covered steel sleeve connectors which fit snugly in the conduit connector end . Swap to this style the junky original style could be the cause of your problem .

John in stormy Suffolk County England .

Amen to that. The only time I have ever blown a fuse was because of original style connector.

Bobpro · 05-21-2021, 03:33 PM

I do have the 2 bulb headlight. So, do I understand correctly that the upper bulb in the reflector is considered a “parking” light, and not a “dim” light? Thus the 7 o’clock position turns it on and off? If that is the case, both the 4 and 5 o’clock settings are BOTH “high” lights?
Bob

Bobpro · 05-21-2021, 03:35 PM

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John, I have the 2-bulbreflector.

Bob C · 05-21-2021, 04:13 PM

There are two filaments in the large center bulb, one for High and one for low beam.

MAG · 05-21-2021, 06:19 PM

BobPro I understand your frustration. Like some of the other posts, I used to struggle with that area myself until I studied that system quite thoroughly and figured out how to properly install it.

Henry Ford designed a very simple method for connecting the Main Wiring Harness to the base of the Headlight, He used a plastic plug with the color of the wires R, G, Y embossed on the top of the plug. When all the components that make up the system are “factory” correct it works perfectly. In the past there were some REPRO parts that were not made correctly. That has been mostly corrected now.
However there are some Main Wiring Harnesses that have the wrong terminator connectors installed. They have Bullet Terminators installed on the Head Light Wires instead of the correct Flat Terminators. The Bullet Terminators stick up too high above the surface of the plastic plug and cause the springs in the Headlight Base Connector to distort which causes both filaments to light and or short to ground blowing fuses. The fix is order the Main Wiring Harness with correct Flat Terminators or if the Bullet Terminators are already installed, grind or file the tips to where they stick up no more than 1/32” above the plastic plug.

I would suggest this:
Disconnect one headlight and see if the other light operates correctly. If it operates correctly, the light wires in the disconnected light are in the wrong location in the plastic plug. If still wrong, connect the disconnected lamp and repeat the procedure for the other light.
Make sure you are installing the plastic plug correctly into the HeadLight Base Connector.
Good luck with it.

Badpuppy · 05-22-2021, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobpro

I do have the 2 bulb headlight. So, do I understand correctly that the upper bulb in the reflector is considered a “parking” light, and not a “dim” light? Thus the 7 o’clock position turns it on and off? If that is the case, both the 4 and 5 o’clock settings are BOTH “high” lights?
Bob

That is correct. Park/Cowl are the same thing electrically except for location. Henry called High and Low beams "Bright" and "Dim", which are contained in the center bulb.

The wiring at the column plate is confusing when properly wired. It looks like Bright and Dim connections are reversed, but that's because Park connects to the hot terminal through a different leg of the triangle than the other two.

With your setup you should get Park lights at 7:00.

old31 · 05-23-2021, 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john charlton

If you have the single bulb reflector then on 7 the main bulbs high or low should not glow even dimly . If just the high beam element lights on 4 and 5 then there is a fault somewhere . I do not use the original style repro connector plugs they are pain and give troubles shorts etc etc .I use the fool proof rubber covered steel sleeve connectors which fit snugly in the conduit connector end . Swap to this style the junky original style could be the cause of your problem .

John in stormy Suffolk County England .

John, do you have a photo of what you mean by "rubber covered steel sleeve connectors"?

redmodelt · 05-23-2021, 09:14 AM

The item John is talking about are the regular connectors used to join two wires together on the car. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...earchByKeyword Each end of the wire has a soldered on bullet.https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...-CONNECTOR-SET Bypassing/getting rid of the three wire connector original used, https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...earchByKeyword just use the wire connectors on the leads for the head lights. There should be enough slack when the 3 wires are pulled thru the conduit, to do that.

john charlton · 05-23-2021, 10:06 AM

Redmodelt has it they are the connectors I mean . You clip off the ends of the headlight wires and solder on the brass bullets .There is a special tool like pliers with a fork at each end . It squeezes the connector then you hear the click when the connector is seated .The 3 connectors sit in the headlamp base tube and conduit end no problem ,no more shorts !!!

John still in Suffolk County England .

Badpuppy · 05-23-2021, 10:07 AM

You also have to tear out the inside of the headlight sockets and solder bullet ends to the bulb socket wires. If your new harness has the proper flat-ended contacts, you'll have to replace those too with the bullets. Personally, I wouldn't, unless you can determine that's the problem.

Well, John walked over my post.

05-21-2021, 11:44 AM	#1
Bobpro Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2021 Posts: 9	Headlight Issue Round Two Earlier I posted a HEADLIGHT ISSUE message on my 1930 Ford Model A CCPU. After much effort to determine the cause, without resolution, I resorted to Plan B, and ordered, all from Bert's Model A Center, a good quality Main Wire Harness (2 bulb), a good quality USA made Light Switch, new 2-bulb Headlight wiring, and new plastic Headlight Plugs. I have now installed, and apparently resolved my first issue. However, I now have another problem - Light switch rod positions are not correct. I am aware of the correrct positions, namely, 6 o'clock, off; 5, dim; 4, high; and 7, park/cowl (which I do not have on the CCPU). But what I now have is: 4, High; 5, High; 6, Off; and 7, Dim. Am I correct, that I should have NOTHING at the 7 o'clock position? The Light Switch is in the proper position, with the drain hole to the bottom. The notch in the plastic disc on the end of the Main Wire Harness is located on the bottom. All were installed with the light switch rod held in the 6 o'clock position. I am baffled as to what to correct, look at next. Any and all suggestions are appreciated. Bob

05-21-2021, 12:01 PM	#2
john charlton Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,304	Re: Headlight Issue Round Two If you have the single bulb reflector then on 7 the main bulbs high or low should not glow even dimly . If just the high beam element lights on 4 and 5 then there is a fault somewhere . I do not use the original style repro connector plugs they are pain and give troubles shorts etc etc .I use the fool proof rubber covered steel sleeve connectors which fit snugly in the conduit connector end . Swap to this style the junky original style could be the cause of your problem . John in stormy Suffolk County England .

05-21-2021, 12:45 PM	#3
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,750	Re: Headlight Issue Round Two If you have two bulb headlights the 7 o'clock position should be the small upper parking light bulb.

05-21-2021, 03:33 PM	#5
Bobpro Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2021 Posts: 9	Re: Headlight Issue Round Two I do have the 2 bulb headlight. So, do I understand correctly that the upper bulb in the reflector is considered a “parking” light, and not a “dim” light? Thus the 7 o’clock position turns it on and off? If that is the case, both the 4 and 5 o’clock settings are BOTH “high” lights? Bob

05-21-2021, 03:35 PM	#6
Bobpro Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2021 Posts: 9	Re: Headlight Issue Round Two Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) John, I have the 2-bulbreflector.

05-21-2021, 06:19 PM	#8
MAG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 925	Re: Headlight Issue Round Two BobPro I understand your frustration. Like some of the other posts, I used to struggle with that area myself until I studied that system quite thoroughly and figured out how to properly install it. Henry Ford designed a very simple method for connecting the Main Wiring Harness to the base of the Headlight, He used a plastic plug with the color of the wires R, G, Y embossed on the top of the plug. When all the components that make up the system are “factory” correct it works perfectly. In the past there were some REPRO parts that were not made correctly. That has been mostly corrected now. However there are some Main Wiring Harnesses that have the wrong terminator connectors installed. They have Bullet Terminators installed on the Head Light Wires instead of the correct Flat Terminators. The Bullet Terminators stick up too high above the surface of the plastic plug and cause the springs in the Headlight Base Connector to distort which causes both filaments to light and or short to ground blowing fuses. The fix is order the Main Wiring Harness with correct Flat Terminators or if the Bullet Terminators are already installed, grind or file the tips to where they stick up no more than 1/32” above the plastic plug. I would suggest this: Disconnect one headlight and see if the other light operates correctly. If it operates correctly, the light wires in the disconnected light are in the wrong location in the plastic plug. If still wrong, connect the disconnected lamp and repeat the procedure for the other light. Make sure you are installing the plastic plug correctly into the HeadLight Base Connector. Good luck with it. __________________ I noticed the harder I work the luckier I get!

05-23-2021, 09:14 AM	#11
redmodelt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland OR Posts: 6,340	Re: Headlight Issue Round Two The item John is talking about are the regular connectors used to join two wires together on the car. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...earchByKeyword Each end of the wire has a soldered on bullet.https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...-CONNECTOR-SET Bypassing/getting rid of the three wire connector original used, https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...earchByKeyword just use the wire connectors on the leads for the head lights. There should be enough slack when the 3 wires are pulled thru the conduit, to do that. __________________ I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!

05-23-2021, 10:06 AM	#12
john charlton Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,304	Re: Headlight Issue Round Two Redmodelt has it they are the connectors I mean . You clip off the ends of the headlight wires and solder on the brass bullets .There is a special tool like pliers with a fork at each end . It squeezes the connector then you hear the click when the connector is seated .The 3 connectors sit in the headlamp base tube and conduit end no problem ,no more shorts !!! John still in Suffolk County England .

05-23-2021, 10:07 AM	#13
Badpuppy Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Guthrie, OK Posts: 1,145	Re: Headlight Issue Round Two You also have to tear out the inside of the headlight sockets and solder bullet ends to the bulb socket wires. If your new harness has the proper flat-ended contacts, you'll have to replace those too with the bullets. Personally, I wouldn't, unless you can determine that's the problem. Well, John walked over my post.