Bullet wire connectors onmy 40MERC

[Clem Clement]

I struggle on. When a bullet wire end is inserted in a tubular connector, what holds the connection in place. Does to overhanging rubber insulation grip the bullet? I see no spring involved. The bullet shaped head has a indentation past the rounded head for? I want to extend the wires and change bullet head sizes.

I'm replacing the broken dash lights dimmer switch. The bullet heads are too big for the switch mountings. Also the wire harness bullet-headed wires are too sort to get a good grip on the head.
Not enough room to file the heads.

[Phil Gillespie]

When the bullet wire end is inserted into the rubber clad tubular connector,
the male end, the bullet wire end fits snug into the double ended connector encased inside the tubular connector. For these to work they require to be of same matched sizes for firm connection.
Recently had bad connection ans cleaned up bullet end with emery paper.
Phil NZ

[ford38v8]

If you don't anticipate further changes, or even of you do, consider soldering the bullets permanently. The only reason they are there was to facilitate fast assembly during manufacture. If you solder them now, you'll have a superior resistance free connection, which if done carefully, will not be detectable on the Concourse should the car ever be point judged.

[Clem Clement]

Thanks. I'll look at it closely the wires hang down about an inch below the dash.
Is the dash rheostat judged for operation and connections? it is a National car.
clem

[Kube]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

If you don't anticipate further changes, or even of you do, consider soldering the bullets permanently. The only reason they are there was to facilitate fast assembly during manufacture. If you solder them now, you'll have a superior resistance free connection, which if done carefully, will not be detectable on the Concourse should the car ever be point judged.

Excellent advice. I do this on my all of my restorations.

[Clem Clement]

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Thanks Kube

[tubman]

If it's good enough for "Kube", it's good enough for me.

[Clem Clement]

I'll try
Thanks
Clem

[Strick]

Clem - facing the same dilemma right now on my recently purchased 40 Merc. the bullet ends on the repo wiring harness I purchased are too small to properly connect to the original dash light dimmer switch

[32phil]

Most old Ford connections were two male bullet ends in a small metal tube covered by a rubber slip over sleeve.
If I have to replace a connection or create one I use new bullet connectors.
It's always good practice to use the same manufacturer for the bullet connectors male and female.
I have had good results and appearance using current new bullets male and female.
You can find them at Lowes or your local hardware store.
Most new ones come color coded with a plastic end. Make sure you get the correct size for the wire you are using.
I remove the new plastic covers and solder the bare ends to the wire. Using shrink tubing I seal up the solder joint. Doing the same on both ends.
I then use a piece of rubber tubing to hide the joint when they are coupled together. Once the joint is complete it's hard to tell from an original crimp style connection.
It will still easily come apart.
You may not be able to mix and match old Ford stuff with new pieces. In cases like that I just replace the old Ford end with a new bullet if it fits snugly. If not I replace both ends.
Joe's Antique in Mass. has some loose male bullet ends available. Call and ask he is very helpful and knowledgeable. I try to have some of them on hand if I need to repair a connection and don't want to replace everything.

[Bob Ingram]

Hi,I just joined and I’m currently working on the wiring on my 48 F1.

I’m using bullet connectors in quite a few location, mostly to make disassembly easy. After I verify the connection I’m putting a piece of heat shrink over it. If I need to disconnect I just cut away the heat shrink.

I’m not concerned about original look so this works for me.

[1931 flamingo]

35FordTN (Mike Driscall (sp)) just had a bunch made I believe. He posts here. FWIW
Paul in CT

[Clem Clement]

My friend Bruce Metcalf and lady came by today before the storm. He has a special tool for close in wire soldering. Her tried with 3 diff soldering irons. Not enough heat. Also, as I has complained before, the wires extending from the loom and too short to use gas heat. So, we took someone advise and put both bullet ends in a Ford double wire jointer and we are good to go. We have dash light or none. Switch is in place. If I am out a night, I will get dash lights and a reminder not to be out at night.
Thanks all f or the help. I do so much better working with a real expert!
thanks Bruce.

[51 MERC-CT]

There are 2 indents on the female connector receptacle that engage the bullet.
The female connectors are made of spring brass and can be squeezed to make them tighter prior to insertion of the bullet.

[Clem Clement]

Thanks. I wondered how they stayed together. The repo dash light dimmer switch has brass inserts. Bullet ends don't fit in.

[oldman]

in a pinch, use an empty .22mag case with base cut off. Clean/polish, slip over 1 bullet end, slide a length of heat shrink tubing over, connect 2nd bullet, crimp, then heat shrink

[325w]

Few times I have dealt with the bullet connector I did a slight crimp on the female with crimp plier. If I found one being stubborn I’d connect them and give a firm crimp to the whole connection.