What 2bbl carb is this?

[JimNNN]

Hi. Wanting to find out if this carb is original to my '61 Mercury Monterey (352 c.i.) What brand/model is it? Don't see any markings on it. I always figured it was original to the car, but when I ordered an elec. choke kit from Mike's, it won't fit this carb. I called Mike's and they said there are only two different kits that will work on the original carbs for the '61 Merc.



I know for a fact that the other kit won't fit either because I have one on my T-Bird. If this is a non-original carb on my '61 I need to find out what it is so I can get an appropriate choke kit. Thanks for your help.

[mercman from oz]

JimNNN asks - What 2bbl Carb is this?

[KULTULZ]

It is a FORD 2100 2V.

The ASSEMBLY ID TAG is missing so look for any ID NOS on the left front mounting ear (foot) or possibly right above it on the fuel bowl.

[Gene F]

I think it is an Autolite 2BBL. Pretty much like one off of a first generation Mustang. The choke cap will not work right unless you have the heater hose clamp for it.

[darrell]

these 2100 carbs are as commom as hell.theres only a few different kits.

[Gene F]

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Yep. No tag means no big deal. If you take the throttle plate off, and dip it, there will be a short series of numbers on one side of it. You can decode what type of car it left the factory on from that. However, who cares. The holes in the choke plate tell me it's likely from something like a 1972 Maverick, Fairmaont, something like that.

[scicala]

Posted by mistake.

Sal

[JimNNN]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I'll be sending these photos and some others to Mike's tomorrow so they can ID the carb for the right choke kit, but I was interested in seeing if it really was non-original, as the fellow from Mike's suggested. Everything else on the car was original when I bought it. It's interesting because the air cleaner - almost certainly original - fits the carb fine, but I guess that's not that pertinent since that diameter seems to be a common size for '60's 2bbl FoMoCo's. I have a shop manual, but it's up at the storage place.

What's not going to fit is the round plastic choke cap from the new kit on the metal choke housing (shown in the pic w/the three screws.) It's the correct diameter, but the spring apparatus in the cap (that moves the lever in the housing) is recessed only a little from the edge of the plastic cap...yet the shaft in the housing that holds the lever extends out of the housing at least 1/4". Not enough clearance for the cap to mount on the housing...the shaft runs into the spring apparatus, if that makes any sense. Sorry if my terms are wrong. If I had a spacer I could make it work/fit.

[KULTULZ]

... but I was interested in seeing if it really was non-original, as the fellow from Mike's suggested ...

I gave you the info to ID the CARB.

And yes, the ASSEMBLY TAG matters.

[Gene F]

Just a fun fact, some of them, had a vent hold atop the air horn over the float area. It had a spring leaded linkage the would slightly open to vent the bowl area when you had your foot on the accelerator. I know my mustang had a 1968 289 in it, and it had that. I see the boss atop yours just no hole and no linkage with a stopper on it.

Don't forget the heater hose clamp, or the choke cap will never actually open up very far. It's a seperate part, so ask Mike's about it.

[KULTULZ]

Don't forget the heater hose clamp, or the choke cap will never actually open up very far. It's a seperate part, so ask Mike's about it.

The HEATER HOSE ATTACHMENT design is to cool the thermostat cap (on heater core return line). Hot air (from choke stove) or an electric heating element actually operates the heating coil to open/close.

[KULTULZ]

Who installed that PCV hookup? Where is the vacuum source, at the booster?



Does the brass block-off cap at the choke housing hot air intake have a filter in it?

EDIT -

I see the manifold vacuum source now ... duh ...



That brass fitting @ the choke housing. Is it the OEM fitting for the choke stove hot air line?

[JimNNN]

That brass fitting @ the choke housing. Is it the OEM fitting for the choke stove hot air line?

Hi KULTULZ. I don't know if that fitting is OEM, but I think it is the choke hot air stove line. I can't remember if I blocked it off, but I did recently replace the exhaust manifold on the passenger side, and took out the non-functioning "flapper" and put a spacer in its place. There's no stove line going up to my choke. (My old cars are all strictly fair weather vehicles...but not so fair I can do without a choke)

You have a good eye noticing my convoluted PCV setup. I pulled the downdraft tube out and was able to put a line of the same diameter in its place. I didn't have much to go off of, but just tried to do it in a way that made sense to me. If you can think of a better way to do it, please let me know.

One question: back when I did the PCV (about 10 years ago) I decided - for whatever reason - that I needed a breather at the valve cover, which is what I have now (not in picture.) I can't remember why I thought I needed that. Should I have that breather in place? Or should I remove it? I should say the car runs really well and idles well...don't seem to have any problems, other than getting the choke figured out. I'll call Mike's today.

[Crankster]

That's an earlier style 2100, pre-64 iirc( they need a different type rebuild kit for the accelerator pump. You can tell at a glance by the large slotted screw on top of the pump housing. Internally there is a ball check and a phenolic block, etc.

They also conveniently take standard threaded HOLLEY jets, later versions used FORD jets.

What size Venturi?

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by JimNNN

I don't know if that fitting is OEM, but I think it is the choke hot air stove line. I can't remember if I blocked it off, but I did recently replace the exhaust manifold on the passenger side, and took out the non-functioning "flapper" and put a spacer in its place. There's no stove line going up to my choke. (My old cars are all strictly fair weather vehicles...but not so fair I can do without a choke.

It is OEM. HOLLEY made an air inlet fitting to replace that when going to electric. The drawn air cools the electric choke assy.

If that fitting is left open, it causes a vacuum leak that will lean the fuel mixture.

You have a good eye noticing my convoluted PCV setup. I pulled the downdraft tube out and was able to put a line of the same diameter in its place. I didn't have much to go off of, but just tried to do it in a way that made sense to me. If you can think of a better way to do it, please let me know.

No, you did good with the conversion, even the booster supply.

See OEM DIAGRAMS below -

One question: back when I did the PCV (about 10 years ago) I decided - for whatever reason - that I needed a breather at the valve cover, which is what I have now (not in picture.) I can't remember why I thought I needed that. Should I have that breather in place? Or should I remove it? I should say the car runs really well and idles well...don't seem to have any problems, other than getting the choke figured out.

The open (filtered) oil filler cap should be on the intake manifold oil filler tube on that year. The system draws fresh air through it to ventilate the crankcase. The rocker covers were the closed style.

[JimNNN]

The open (filtered) oil filler cap should be on the intake manifold oil filler tube on that year. The system draws fresh air through it to ventilate the crankcase. The rocker covers were the closed style.

You're correct. I guess the cap isn't on the valve cover but the filler tube. I'm not good at remembering stuff like that. The original filler cap has a breather function, but it was so filthy and I didn't know how to clean it. Doesn't look like the filter element (which is metallic as I recall) is meant to be removed. I still have that cap, but I've just been using after market caps with a paper type filters. When they get too dirty I throw them away and get a new one.



Thanks for the diagrams. Very helpful.

[KULTULZ]

The original filler cap has a breather function, but it was so filthy and I didn't know how to clean it. Doesn't look like the filter element (which is metallic as I recall) is meant to be removed.

Believe it or not, the early original used hogs hair for a filtering element. You serviced it at every oil change by filling the element with gasoline and letting her rip with a match (or dip it in solvent and put air to it if not adventurous). At some point the cap had to be replaced. If the filtering element is a fine steel wool, you are good to go. You would just replace the cap as needed, especially with a road draft system.

As mentioned, your 2100 is the early version (1958-64) and it's choke style is different from the 1965/. That is why it is difficult to find the correct conversion kit. What did Mike's say?

Is this a driver or are you trying to restore it?

[JimNNN]

Wow, now that I look at it, I'm pretty sure the element in the filler cap is what you say. I thought it was metallic because, well...I wasn't expecting it to be hogs hair! I'd like to go back to the original cap, but I'm not confident it can be cleaned as it should. I'll try the gas...without the match. I can see the headlines: "Man loses hand in internet stunt!"


The car is definitely a driver, in the "survivor" category (Original paint, interior, engine.) I try to keep it as original as possible, but I make very minor mods to make it more usable and to protect essential components, e.g., I put in an aftermarket radiator when I couldn't find someone locally to recore the original.



I haven't yet contacted Mike's because they want additional photos (the back of the carb) that I haven't taken yet, and the car is up in storage. I'll get up there next week. The one thing I'm trying to figure out is if part of the end of the shaft in the choke housing can be removed. It didn't look like it to me when I took the photos, but if that's the case, then there may be enough room to install the new cap with the spring. I'm including a closer picture. You can see a spring thing on the end of that shaft, and I have no idea what that's for. That's all different than on my T-Bird.



Also, I noticed at least one of the openings in the choke housing (maybe both) are drawing vacuum when the car is running. Should those be closed off? There are two of them and they should be visible in the photo.

[JimNNN]

Originally Posted by Crankster

That's an earlier style 2100, pre-64 iirc( they need a different type rebuild kit for the accelerator pump. You can tell at a glance by the large slotted screw on top of the pump housing. Internally there is a ball check and a phenolic block, etc.



What size Venturi?

Thanks for the info, Crankster. The car is in storage, so I'll have to wait to find that info. How do I determine the size of the venturi? I know what that is, but I don't know where to measure it. Thanks.

[scicala]

Originally Posted by JimNNN

Thanks for the info, Crankster. The car is in storage, so I'll have to wait to find that info. How do I determine the size of the venturi? I know what that is, but I don't know where to measure it. Thanks.

The drivers side of the fuel bowl should have a number cast on it, like 1.08 or 1.12. That is the venturi diameter in inches. Some early carbs I've seen didn't have that.

Sal