The Ford Barn

TNTim · 11-19-2023, 12:41 AM

Hello all,

New here. Always wanted a 30’s Ford car. Just recently picked up a really clean and mostly original 35 Standard Tudor.

Original 81k car. Bought from second owner.
Original interior
Repainted once in the 60’s.
Mostly original except juice brakes (good thing). Engine rebuilt a few thousand miles ago.

It has been sitting for about 20 years but in the dry.

So far I haven’t been able to get it started. No spark coming from the distributor. I have spark coming from the coil. Condenser and coil test good.

No clue or experience with one of these distributors. Should I fix this or look for an adapter and swap to a crab style distributor?

TNTim · 11-19-2023, 12:44 AM

Evidently I can’t post pics or show a link to pics. Have to post more so here is #2.

Kube · 11-19-2023, 08:56 AM

Hi ya Tim. Welcome aboard!
There are a number of knowledgeable guys on here that are willing to share their expertise.
Me? I'd stick with the stock distributor and points. They are very good units when properly rebuilt.
Charlie Schwendler in NY is the guy for the distributor and George Haney in Florida is the guy for the coil.
If you like, I can provide contact info for each of these guys.

Pat/Ohio · 11-19-2023, 08:58 AM

You might try a little emery cloth on the face of your points.

Good luck,
Pat

Robert/Texas · 11-19-2023, 09:31 AM

I installed a Mallory crab type distributor on my '34 some years ago because I couldn't get the original one to work. I bought that distributor from Patrick's in Arizona. After 5k miles or so the bushings wore out and I couldn't get the points to hold their adjustment so I sent the original distributor to Charlie Schwendler to rebuild it. The car never ran better.

TNTim · 11-19-2023, 10:36 AM

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I appreciate all the reply’s.

Ill give the emory cloth a try.

Still wrapping my head around positive ground!

So should the positive side of the coil go to the distributor/condensor?

tubman · 11-19-2023, 10:45 AM

The points closing grounds the circuit. Thus, the negative "hot" lead should go to the coil on a positive ground system.

BTW, posting pictures on this forum can be a challenge. A Search should yield several threads that explain the process.

38 coupe · 11-19-2023, 11:59 AM

Please post a picture or provide a detailed description of the engine (head studs vs head bolts, number of studs, number of bolts holding the coil or adapter plate to the distributor, etc.). Even very stock appearing cars can have engine swaps done so long ago that to the uninitiated everything appears year correct. It will help to make sure we are all talking about the same thing before we give you detailed advice.

A bones · 11-19-2023, 12:16 PM

Including your area of locale,, with your Avatar, may show that you might have a seasoned, capable, and willing member near by.

dean333 · 11-19-2023, 12:28 PM

My personal preference is upgrading to a crab distributor that Charlie prepared, much easier to diagnose for the future.

deuce_roadster · 11-19-2023, 01:21 PM

You didn't mention anything about the fuel system. 20 years ago the rubber products most likely were not compatible with the alcohol in today's fuel. ANY rubber in the entire fuel system should be replaced with new versions that can handle the alcohol. The fuel pump diaphragm, the flex line from the hard fuel line to the pump and any other should be replaced. Look into the tank for rust, blow the hard line out. Even if you have non alcohol gas available, if out on a tour you might not.
As mentioned above, oxidation on the points will prevent them from doing thier job and you will have no spark. A good tip is to watch the ammeter as you are turning the engine over with the switch on. The needle should wiggle. If not, the points are not working, or rarely, the switch is not making a good connection to the distributor.
When you get more posts, send us pictures! and WELCOME!

TNTim · 11-19-2023, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A bones

Including your area of locale,, with your Avatar, may show that you might have a seasoned, capable, and willing member near by.

I’m in Knoxville TN.

Fritz · 11-19-2023, 02:47 PM

Not too far from you is another leading source on early Ford ignitions and parts distributors, Third Gen Auto in McMinnville. They can test/rebuild your distributor and recommend/sell good parts.

TNTim · 11-19-2023, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 38 coupe

Please post a picture or provide a detailed description of the engine (head studs vs head bolts, number of studs, number of bolts holding the coil or adapter plate to the distributor, etc.). Even very stock appearing cars can have engine swaps done so long ago that to the uninitiated everything appears year correct. It will help to make sure we are all talking about the same thing before we give you detailed advice.

21 stud engine. 68-6050B 8-3-48

Single Ford 59 carb.

Factory intake .

Adapter installed on top of 3 bolt helmet distributor (condensor on top and external 6 volt coil with two terminals)

Tested coil and i lt measured good resistance. I have 6 volts at the distributor.

Tested condenser and it charges and discharges.

Checked with spark wire tool and indirectly there is a spark at the top of the coil but no spark at either side of engine plugs. This tool just hovers over the wire and when you try to start it will show an arch through a neon bulb.

TNTim · 11-19-2023, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fritz

Not too far from you is another leading source on early Ford ignitions and parts distributors, Third Gen Auto in McMinnville. They can test/rebuild your distributor and recommend/sell good parts.

Thank you. Will check them out!

TNTim · 11-19-2023, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 38 coupe

Please post a picture or provide a detailed description of the engine (head studs vs head bolts, number of studs, number of bolts holding the coil or adapter plate to the distributor, etc.). Even very stock appearing cars can have engine swaps done so long ago that to the uninitiated everything appears year correct. It will help to make sure we are all talking about the same thing before we give you detailed advice.

Updated my original post with pics!

TNTim · 11-19-2023, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kube

Hi ya Tim. Welcome aboard!
There are a number of knowledgeable guys on here that are willing to share their expertise.
Me? I'd stick with the stock distributor and points. They are very good units when properly rebuilt.
Charlie Schwendler in NY is the guy for the distributor and George Haney in Florida is the guy for the coil.
If you like, I can provide contact info for each of these guys.

Please do so. Thank you.

Kube · 11-19-2023, 04:48 PM

Tim, Now that I see your car, I'd strongly suggest you keep it as close to factory as possible. That is one heck of a nice car that seems to have avoided modification.
It, in my opinion, would be a shame to modify it now.

Mike Driskell, as mentioned in post #13, is one heck of a good guy. He also rebuilds distributors. Not certain how far he is from you, but if within reasonable driving distance, he'd be a great fellow to become acquainted with.

Charlie in N.Y. : 716.662.9159 / [email protected]

George Haney in FL. : 941.637.6698 / [email protected]

petehoovie · 11-19-2023, 04:53 PM

Tim,
I love your Slantback!

38 coupe · 11-19-2023, 05:15 PM

Nice looking car, I agree on keeping it stock.

Speaking of keeping it stock, that looks to me like a 37-41 distributor under the aftermarket coil conversion plate. That could cause problems if 32-36 inner caps are used since they are different lengths and are clocked 90 degrees different than the later distributor.

If it was me I would get a proper 33-36 distributor, go through it (or have one of the few recognized experts go through it for you, but we can talk you through it if you are game), get a proper coil rebuilt by Skip Haney, install new inner caps, gaskets, and spark plug wires, then have confidence in your ignition system.

11-19-2023, 08:56 AM	#3
Kube Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wisconsin, USA Posts: 9,007	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Hi ya Tim. Welcome aboard! There are a number of knowledgeable guys on here that are willing to share their expertise. Me? I'd stick with the stock distributor and points. They are very good units when properly rebuilt. Charlie Schwendler in NY is the guy for the distributor and George Haney in Florida is the guy for the coil. If you like, I can provide contact info for each of these guys. __________________ "I can explain it for you. However, I can't understand it for you".

11-19-2023, 08:58 AM	#4
Pat/Ohio Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wilmington, OH/Lakeland, FL Posts: 952	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard You might try a little emery cloth on the face of your points. Good luck, Pat

11-19-2023, 09:31 AM	#5
Robert/Texas Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Burton, Texas Posts: 681	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard I installed a Mallory crab type distributor on my '34 some years ago because I couldn't get the original one to work. I bought that distributor from Patrick's in Arizona. After 5k miles or so the bushings wore out and I couldn't get the points to hold their adjustment so I sent the original distributor to Charlie Schwendler to rebuild it. The car never ran better.

11-19-2023, 10:36 AM	#6
TNTim Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2023 Location: Knoxville, TN Posts: 19	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I appreciate all the reply’s. Ill give the emory cloth a try. Still wrapping my head around positive ground! So should the positive side of the coil go to the distributor/condensor?

11-19-2023, 10:45 AM	#7
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,320	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard The points closing grounds the circuit. Thus, the negative "hot" lead should go to the coil on a positive ground system. BTW, posting pictures on this forum can be a challenge. A Search should yield several threads that explain the process.

11-19-2023, 12:44 AM	#2
TNTim Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2023 Location: Knoxville, TN Posts: 19	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Evidently I can’t post pics or show a link to pics. Have to post more so here is #2.

11-19-2023, 11:59 AM	#8
38 coupe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South Texas Posts: 1,631	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Please post a picture or provide a detailed description of the engine (head studs vs head bolts, number of studs, number of bolts holding the coil or adapter plate to the distributor, etc.). Even very stock appearing cars can have engine swaps done so long ago that to the uninitiated everything appears year correct. It will help to make sure we are all talking about the same thing before we give you detailed advice.

11-19-2023, 12:16 PM	#9
A bones Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: CLAYTON DE Posts: 1,283	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Including your area of locale,, with your Avatar, may show that you might have a seasoned, capable, and willing member near by. __________________ Enjoy yer day. Tom Hate can't fix what it started.

11-19-2023, 12:28 PM	#10
dean333 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Shorewood Illinois Posts: 863	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard My personal preference is upgrading to a crab distributor that Charlie prepared, much easier to diagnose for the future. __________________ Tim Carlig

11-19-2023, 01:21 PM	#11
deuce_roadster Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Shelton, WA Posts: 3,800	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard You didn't mention anything about the fuel system. 20 years ago the rubber products most likely were not compatible with the alcohol in today's fuel. ANY rubber in the entire fuel system should be replaced with new versions that can handle the alcohol. The fuel pump diaphragm, the flex line from the hard fuel line to the pump and any other should be replaced. Look into the tank for rust, blow the hard line out. Even if you have non alcohol gas available, if out on a tour you might not. As mentioned above, oxidation on the points will prevent them from doing thier job and you will have no spark. A good tip is to watch the ammeter as you are turning the engine over with the switch on. The needle should wiggle. If not, the points are not working, or rarely, the switch is not making a good connection to the distributor. When you get more posts, send us pictures! and WELCOME!

11-19-2023, 02:47 PM	#13
Fritz Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: From Chicago. Now Nashville Posts: 207	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Not too far from you is another leading source on early Ford ignitions and parts distributors, Third Gen Auto in McMinnville. They can test/rebuild your distributor and recommend/sell good parts. __________________ Cars and metal rust away and are destroyed, but the Word of God will stand forever (Isaiah 40:8, Matthew 24:35).

11-19-2023, 04:48 PM	#18
Kube Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wisconsin, USA Posts: 9,007	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Tim, Now that I see your car, I'd strongly suggest you keep it as close to factory as possible. That is one heck of a nice car that seems to have avoided modification. It, in my opinion, would be a shame to modify it now. Mike Driskell, as mentioned in post #13, is one heck of a good guy. He also rebuilds distributors. Not certain how far he is from you, but if within reasonable driving distance, he'd be a great fellow to become acquainted with. Charlie in N.Y. : 716.662.9159 / [email protected] George Haney in FL. : 941.637.6698 / [email protected] __________________ "I can explain it for you. However, I can't understand it for you".

11-19-2023, 04:53 PM	#19
petehoovie Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Posts: 8,156	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Tim, I love your Slantback! __________________ The only thing nice about being imperfect is the joy it brings to others.... *"Silver rings, your butt! Them's washers!"* "We shot our way out of that town for a dollar's worth of steel holes!" - from 'The Wild Bunch' - 1969 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NReUd2_0u0 Last edited by petehoovie; 11-19-2023 at 04:59 PM.

11-19-2023, 05:15 PM	#20
38 coupe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South Texas Posts: 1,631	Re: My First Flathead! 35 Standard Nice looking car, I agree on keeping it stock. Speaking of keeping it stock, that looks to me like a 37-41 distributor under the aftermarket coil conversion plate. That could cause problems if 32-36 inner caps are used since they are different lengths and are clocked 90 degrees different than the later distributor. If it was me I would get a proper 33-36 distributor, go through it (or have one of the few recognized experts go through it for you, but we can talk you through it if you are game), get a proper coil rebuilt by Skip Haney, install new inner caps, gaskets, and spark plug wires, then have confidence in your ignition system.