1965 352V8 very rough idle with back fires

[Himi52]

I cleaned the tank by myself. I soaked it for days and inspected it through the gas gushed port and looked extremely clean. I have a filter before the fuel pump and one in the fuel pump and one after. I will take a look at the carb and see what it looks like.

[KULTULZ]

I have a filter before the fuel pump and one in the fuel pump and one after.

Is that first filter factory installed? Usually a filter before a suction pump will cause cavitation/vapor lock/possible blend separation.

Is the filter after the pump filter (canister) factory installed? You have a lot of resistance to draw/delivery.

Maybe check the integrity of the system with a vacuum pump (poor hose/clamps) and use a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure and volume delivery.

[Crankster]

"If you hear hoofbeats, think Horses, not Zebras"

Check Ignition first, just like the troubleshooting manuals suggest. Inspect spark plugs, and check for the quality of the spark. Are the plugs badly fouled? Remember, we have no way of knowing some of these factors, can only go by the stuff you tell us.

First thing, remove coil wire from distributor cap, and see that the terminal is about 3/8" or so away from a head bolt or other good solid ground. Crank the engine over and observe the quality of the spark. This simple test checks the primary ignition, points & condenser and coil itself. Should have a nice healthy bluish spark that will jump maybe 1/2". Only do this test just long enough to make a determination, it is kind of hard on the ignition coil winding insulation.

[Himi52]

Here’s the latest. I removed the two filters on the fuel line. Tried to start it, no luck. I took off the top of the carb and noticed that the float was in a downward position. The tab on the float was bent down. It wouldn’t go up or down. I guess my mechanic rebuilding the carb was a little slim on experience. I bent it back so the float was visually parallel to the top of the carb when pressed lightly on the plug. Tried to start it no luck. I have a little spark from the coil. It was a bright day so it was hard to see. Today I purchased a capacitor from Ford dealership. Motorcraft but made in Mexico. Tonight for the capacitor install but is raining outside. Another day…
Using a technical service manual I noticed that the distributor is off 180 degrees. I have all the wires in the correct order. It has been like that since I purchased from my uncle back in the 70’s. Would that affect the starting? Thanks for all your help.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Himi52

I removed the two filters on the fuel line. Tried to start it, no luck. I took off the top of the carb and noticed that the float was in a downward position. The tab on the float was bent down. It wouldn’t go up or down. I guess my mechanic rebuilding the carb was a little slim on experience. I bent it back so the float was visually parallel to the top of the carb when pressed lightly on the plug. Tried to start it no luck.

Did fuel enter the fuel bowl? If not, fill the bowl (to point float closes needle/seat. Instructions to adjust float will be in repair manual. You may want to do a fuel pressure/delivery volume test to see if the pump is working.

I have a little spark from the coil. It was a bright day so it was hard to see. Today I purchased a capacitor from Ford dealership. Motorcraft but made in Mexico

.

That's OK. They have been MEXICO since the seventies.

Using a technical service manual I noticed that the distributor is off 180 degrees. I have all the wires in the correct order. It has been like that since I purchased from my uncle back in the 70’s. Would that affect the starting?

If it was that far off, it would not run at all. You need to check timing integrity once the fuel is repaired and there is still no start.

[JimNNN]

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Originally Posted by rotorwrench

I'm not sure how many are American made now days unless that includes Mexico.

Also, because of something called "price elasticity" I'm doubting that my local auto parts stores have a selection of different grades of condensers/points/rotors to satisfy either the budget minded or quality minded vintage car buff. They likely have just one option for each part. If they do have more than one option, it's usually to have some redundancy in their supply chain so they don't run out of stock. I don't ever recall being given an option between good quality condensers or low priced condensers, though that may have happened 30 or 40 years ago.

I mention this because I often see the warning to stay away from the low priced imported ignition parts. Buying those parts usually isn't a conscious decision on the part of most old car buffs. I do want to get good quality ignition parts, though. Does anyone know where a person can reliably get the best quality points style ignition parts?

[KULTULZ]

I do want to get good quality ignition parts, though. Does anyone know where a person can reliably get the best quality points style ignition parts?

I cannot understand it ...



POINTS - B8Q 12171-A - DP-12

CONDENSER - C9AZ 12300-A - DC-13- A

[Himi52]

Hi Again,
I did as you recommended and changed the condenser from a Ford dealership nearby. I put some more gas in the tank. Put the battery charger on on trickle for a few days. Went out today and it fired right up with no hesitation. I am going for a cruise in the neighborhood later today. Thanks for all your help and advice. I will keep you posted for any future Coming Attractions

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Himi52

I did as you recommended and changed the condenser from a Ford dealership nearby.

Glad it fired!

By any chance did you save the box? Can you post the PN the dealer sold you?

[Himi52]

Hi,

The dealerships name is:

Theodore Robins Ford
2060 Harbor Blvd.
Costa Mesa, Ca 92627
949-642-0010

Pictures to follow...

[KULTULZ]

Thank You for that!

I was unsure if the COND was still available. The points are and you solved my query.