The Ford Barn

khnaess · 01-04-2018, 03:57 PM

Hello
I have to remove the rear end on my 1937 Ford (clutch issue) and need a little guidance when it comes to removing the shock absorbers.
I suppose the easiest way is to disconnect the absorber link that connect the shock absorber to the axel and not loosen the whole absorber from the frame.

I have raised the car on stands and removed the wheels. I have also loosend the two nuts that holds the shock link. But the shock link doesnt come off easily. Do I have to use a puller or something? Was it wrong to raise the car from the ground? I have not used any force yet, I thought it was best to ask for help first. Are there any spring with tension in the shock absorber that I should be aware of?
Regards
Knut Haakon Naess

skidmarks · 01-04-2018, 04:33 PM

Links studs have a taper. I made a small pickle fork that works good but if you dont have one and want to avoid damaging the links i would unbolt the shocks from the frame and let them hang on the rear

jimTN · 01-04-2018, 04:59 PM

Take two hammers, buck up one side of the shock arm where the link connects and hit it on the other side with the nut backed off. It will pop out.

JM 35 Sedan · 01-04-2018, 05:09 PM

With the car on stands, and rear wheels removed, what I normally do to remove a shock link, that's attached to the rear, is to loosen the nut a few turns, then using a length of aluminum or brass bar stock, place one end against that nut, and hit the other end of the bar a good wack with a 2 to 3 lb hammer. That will break the tapered end loose, and the soft bar stock prevents damage to nut and threads on link. Then remove the nut, pull the end of the link out, and push the shock arm & attached link up out of the way. I started using this method after destroying several good shock links using a pickle fork, or a make shift puller.

skidmarks · 01-04-2018, 07:36 PM

Well i guess the BFH approach works for some people, my little shop made pickle fork works fine without mangling the shock links. Each to their own.

Was there a ford service tool ever made for the shock links?

Ken/Alabama · 01-04-2018, 08:42 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I always just unbolt the shocks from the frame . I found it to be quicker and I don't run the risk of damaging the shock link.

khnaess · 01-05-2018, 01:36 AM

Thank you. I appreciate all your help, this forum is great.
Have a nice weekend

SofaKing · 01-05-2018, 07:53 AM

Try a Tie Rod end puller, $12-15 here, not sure about Norway. No hammer blows will be transmitted to the precision pieces inside a Houdaille shock assembly.

01-04-2018, 03:57 PM	#1
khnaess Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Norway Posts: 68	disconnect rear shock absorber Hello I have to remove the rear end on my 1937 Ford (clutch issue) and need a little guidance when it comes to removing the shock absorbers. I suppose the easiest way is to disconnect the absorber link that connect the shock absorber to the axel and not loosen the whole absorber from the frame. I have raised the car on stands and removed the wheels. I have also loosend the two nuts that holds the shock link. But the shock link doesnt come off easily. Do I have to use a puller or something? Was it wrong to raise the car from the ground? I have not used any force yet, I thought it was best to ask for help first. Are there any spring with tension in the shock absorber that I should be aware of? Regards Knut Haakon Naess

01-04-2018, 04:33 PM	#2
skidmarks Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: newark, delaware Posts: 3,735	Re: disconnect rear shock absorber Links studs have a taper. I made a small pickle fork that works good but if you dont have one and want to avoid damaging the links i would unbolt the shocks from the frame and let them hang on the rear

01-04-2018, 04:59 PM	#3
jimTN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Powell, TN Posts: 2,509	Re: disconnect rear shock absorber Take two hammers, buck up one side of the shock arm where the link connects and hit it on the other side with the nut backed off. It will pop out.

01-04-2018, 05:09 PM	#4
JM 35 Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland Posts: 10,858	Re: disconnect rear shock absorber With the car on stands, and rear wheels removed, what I normally do to remove a shock link, that's attached to the rear, is to loosen the nut a few turns, then using a length of aluminum or brass bar stock, place one end against that nut, and hit the other end of the bar a good wack with a 2 to 3 lb hammer. That will break the tapered end loose, and the soft bar stock prevents damage to nut and threads on link. Then remove the nut, pull the end of the link out, and push the shock arm & attached link up out of the way. I started using this method after destroying several good shock links using a pickle fork, or a make shift puller. __________________ *John* *"Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein* Last edited by JM 35 Sedan; 01-04-2018 at 07:52 PM.

01-04-2018, 07:36 PM	#5
skidmarks Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: newark, delaware Posts: 3,735	Re: disconnect rear shock absorber Well i guess the BFH approach works for some people, my little shop made pickle fork works fine without mangling the shock links. Each to their own. Was there a ford service tool ever made for the shock links?

01-04-2018, 08:42 PM	#6
Ken/Alabama Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 3,261	Re: disconnect rear shock absorber Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I always just unbolt the shocks from the frame . I found it to be quicker and I don't run the risk of damaging the shock link.

01-05-2018, 01:36 AM	#7
khnaess Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Norway Posts: 68	Re: disconnect rear shock absorber Thank you. I appreciate all your help, this forum is great. Have a nice weekend

01-05-2018, 07:53 AM	#8
SofaKing Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Salt Lake City, Utah Posts: 756	Re: disconnect rear shock absorber Try a Tie Rod end puller, $12-15 here, not sure about Norway. No hammer blows will be transmitted to the precision pieces inside a Houdaille shock assembly.