Dressing points what's the proper procedure?

[corvette8n]

Do I use a points file?, or sand paper? and is there a procedure put out by Ford?

[Fordors]

Proper procedure to me always meant using a point file (I suppose those were made with a fine cut), reserve the file to be used only for your points, and sandpaper might deposit an unwanted substance on them.
In reality I prefer to replace rather than file. JMO.

[51 MERC-CT]

Haven't had a set of points to file in over 20 years but when I did I used to use a Diamond dust nail file.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Depends on what ya want to do , to get them cleaned up and start the engine we use a wire brush and a dremel. Works pretty good. I have a building full of point files and none of them work very well.
Emery cloth works pretty good but need to blow off the residue with brake clean etc.....
The finest emery ever made is a dollar bill folded and sprayed with brake clean to polish them. Have one on the bench .....
Also have a plastic grinding wheel on the grinder for polishing the contacts.

You could write a book on this subject, for many years we have often thrown away sets that were better quality than the new ones we put in, and dont even start the discussion regarding condensors?????????

[fordwife]

Since we're on that subject, I pick up all the nos ignition parts I can at swap meets, flea markets,etc. Even if they are from stores like Sears or Western Auto, in my opinion, they are better than the foreign stuff we're getting today.

[koates]

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Testing condensers is a big problem for the average Joe restorer or mechanic. Using a multimeter to charge up a condenser and watch the pointer is only a VERY BASIC test. Whats required is a proper automotive condenser tester (a bit hard to find these days) which tests for leakage using up around 600 volts. Also a meter in the tester that shows the capacity in microfarads. A good idea is to warm up the condenser to engine operating temp and test it after doing the cold test. Also a series resistance test is a good idea. New old stock 50 year old condensers are usually not worth buying. I once tested a dozen NOS genuine 1932 model B Ford condensers and not on of them was even close to being acceptable. Most modern condensers have an average capacity of around .24 mfd. Early Ford V8 requires about .30 to .36 mfd. but the lower ones will work OK but contacts life could be reduced. If you are having a bad running or hard starting engine its an easy thing to just replace the condenser to prove a point before getting more involved in fault finding. I was once called to a car that would not start (fire up) by its owner who had done a tune up. He had replaced new points , plugs, condenser, fuel filter, air filter etc. It had no spark at the plugs and turned out to be a faulty new out of the box condenser which was shorted to ground. Always carry a couple of new spare condensers when touring around. Regards, Kevin.

[2manycars]

I use 400 grit wet or dry paper, followed by dragging a business card through the points to clean off any grit.

[slowforty]

Buy the way Brake Clean is not your friend if used around an open Flame.
The fumes caused by the Brake Clean hitting the Flame are HIGHLY DANGEROUS IF BREATHED.

[54vicky]

Originally Posted by slowforty

Buy the way Brake Clean is not your friend if used around an open Flame.
The fumes caused by the Brake Clean hitting the Flame are HIGHLY DANGEROUS IF BREATHED.

I believe you will find the clorinated type is the dangerous one.they also sell a non clorinated type.

[supereal]

If the points need "dressing", they need to be replaced. However carefully you abrade the point surface, it will be rough and the life will be shortened. The biggest enemy of point life is a weak condenser. We are finding that the majority of foreign made point sets are inferior. USA points will usually be higher priced in catalogs. The quality of the contacts, pivots, and rubbing block will be worth the extra cost.

[jake197000]

i bead blast them then use emery or a file and then brake clean.but the point alinment is very important.the points will last longer if properly aligned.i use a magnifiying headset.the more square the points,the more contact area to carry the current.

[2manycars]

Originally Posted by supereal

If the points need "dressing", they need to be replaced. However carefully you abrade the point surface, it will be rough and the life will be shortened. The biggest enemy of point life is a weak condenser. We are finding that the majority of foreign made point sets are inferior. USA points will usually be higher priced in catalogs. The quality of the contacts, pivots, and rubbing block will be worth the extra cost.

Around here, we often need to dress the points in the spring, after they have developed a corrosion film over the damp winter. Not dressing them because they are pitted, which is a different problem.

[hotrodart]

I got a point file from NAPA in the '60s........used it often on lots of cars (still use it) and never had point life shortened, or performance degraded, particularly on high performance engines that were street raced frequently.

[Clem Clement]

At Hershey in the greenfield, a couple of graybeards were messing with points in an old Olds. I walked up and showed 'em how: Took out a $100 bill and dressed the points and the engine ran. No one cracked a smile. The wanabees were stunnified.
Clem

[V4F]

I use a point file & always close the points on a match book cover to remove filings

[RalphM]

Does anyone supply new US made points?

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by RalphM

Does anyone supply new US made points?

Or good points files? I need one, preferably the old fashion type, no handle, except perhaps just a twist on the end.

[supereal]

C&G shows USA made points as 68-12107. $30 per set That is about twice the price of the foreign made, but worth the difference. 800/266-0470. I don't know a source for point files. I have had mine for over 60 years, but seldom used on ignition points. It is handy for other uses such as relays etc.

[flatheadmurre]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

Or good points files? I need one, preferably the old fashion type, no handle, except perhaps just a twist on the end.

My cheapskate version is Post-it sprayglue and sandpaper on a feelergauge...thin flexible and just tear off and replace.
Wifes nailfile looks tempting to...thin diamondcoated thing...if you don´t hear from me again you know what happened

[Fordors]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

Or good points files? I need one, preferably the old fashion type, no handle, except perhaps just a twist on the end.

A quick Google search finds them at Amazon, Auto Zone, eBay (many with free shipping) and more. Nicholson offers one and they are probably the oldest and best name in files.