Flathead V8 engine cost ?

[Ronnie]

Old Ron
What are the ring widths for the volvo set?

[richard crow]

when i hear i board my eng 125. over & it don,t over heat i think of the people that say i been smoking for years & what they say about smoking is b.s. they been luckey

[Ol' Ron]

The piston and rings are at the machine shop. Probably;y look up Volvo 4 banger.

[GOSFAST]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Gary:

Would you happen to consider renting this plate out? I've made one from an old head but I'm not sure it will do the job as well as the huck of steel you got in the picture.

Tim

Hi Tim, negative on lending/renting any tools, sorry! There was a ton of machining/engineering on that (aluminum, not steel) plate. A "few" hours on the CNC.

Originally Posted by richard crow

when i hear i board my eng 125. over & it don,t over heat i think of the people that say i been smoking for years & what they say about smoking is b.s. they been luckey

Have done "tons" of Flatheads over the years. Back in the mid '90's we'd do 15/20 per year for a single customer/friend, "Flathead Bob"! NEVER had a single build run hot/smoke, not a single one, and many of these were "large" over-bores!

We were one of the few shops around back then making a "girdle/bridge" that literally straddled the center main and tied both pan rails together AND at the same time supported the original center main cap which was machined flat on top! One of the weakest areas of the Flathead block is the (ribbed) center main webbing including the main-threads on the center fasteners. (I still have the "pattern" here for the part!)

I placed this info here before, but I'll repeat it once again! Ford came to realize that the V-8 cranks (as more power became necessary) needed the both center counterweights on there to keep the center main from destroying itself. This is STILL true today with the aftermarket cranks for the BB Chev's. They've incorporated the identical center counterweights on the center main on the larger stroke shafts!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Just on a side note with respect to larger o'bores, you WILL most definitely sacrifice some amount of HP with less material on the walls. We've done extensive dyno testing with ALL mfr's including the early "Nailheads" as well. The "thicker" the walls, the more heat retention, which simply put, equals more HP! The more heat contained from the charge firing will always result in more power.

[Ol' Ron]

Just pock a few holes in an old head with a hole saw and you've got one.