Removing rear hubs

[Ian Crawford]

What works for me is: Leave the wheel ON, it must stay on and have the weight of the vehicle on it, remove the nut and put it back on upside down or use a non castelated nut just proud of the axle end and do NOT jack it up. Jack up the OPPOSITE side rear just off the ground, no need to remove this wheel. With a 4lb hammer strike the loosened nut 2-3 times square on the end. The hub will be loose. I have never owned a hub puller because I have never needed one. Try it and see.

[Martinbuilt]

I don't know if I'll need to try this or not, but the physics make sense.

I have another hub-related question, though.
I've helped a friend fight with his. It was a car that had sat for decades.
On a car that is properly maintained and driven, are those rear hubs still miserable to pull? Is it safe to use copper-eaze or something similar on the taper?

[jw hash]

they make a nut that is designed to bottoms out on the end of the axle and you can use a hammer on. so it help from damaging the threads.

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by jw hash

they make a nut that is designed to bottoms out on the end of the axle and you can use a hammer on. so it help from damaging the threads.

"Hammer blow removal tool." Works - somewhat. Can deform the axle end and make removal off the taper even harder.

Better are the clamps that pick up the groove (or protrusion) on the hub center and use a screw to "jack" the hub off the taper using the axle end "dimple" to center the screw.

These clamps are available in "universal" type (i.e. can do either groove or protrusion) or "innie" or "outy" version made specifically to fit the hub pattern. The specific sizes are stronger.

Many use the "universal" removal tool which bolts to the lug nut bolts and uses a center screw to bear against the dimple/axle. These have a downside in that they can deform the flange of the hub, but is probably the most commonly available in your local garage.

Any of these "screw clamp" types can be applied, torqued up to a practical limit, and then "tapped" on the end with a hammer - the shock is frequently enough to start the removal.

Joe K

[JoeCB]

"hammer blow removal tool" .... $100 name what's commonly called a "knocker"

Joe B

[Bruce of MN]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Never seize on the taper is a bad idea. It should be clean.

[Afordman31]

This is the one I made and it works! The vendors have these also!

[Bob Bidonde]

The tool Tom Endy speaks of is a "Knockoff Wheel Puller." This tool is available from "A" parts dealers, and it is inexpensive. It has a 5/8-18 thread and it also can be used on the steering column shaft.

[The Master Cylinder]

Originally Posted by Afordman31

This is the one I made and it works! The vendors have these also!

The one made by Mitchell, the O/D people. Works on all Model A hubs.

[BillCNC]

Before I bought a hub puller, I'd just loosen the rear nuts 2 turns then slowly drive the car around the block turning the steering wheel left and right like a stock car driver keeping his tires warm during a yellow flag. The rolling and turning makes them loosen quickly. I only bought the hub puller for when the car was not running and I need to remove the rear hubs.

Regards
Bill

[WHN]

Originally Posted by BillCNC

Before I bought a hub puller, I'd just loosen the rear nuts 2 turns then slowly drive the car around the block turning the steering wheel left and right like a stock car driver keeping his tires warm during a yellow flag. The rolling and turning makes them loosen quickly. I only bought the hub puller for when the car was not running and I need to remove the rear hubs.

Regards
Bill

Interesting! Never heard this one before.

Enjoy.

[Ian Crawford]

The "Knockoff Wheel Puller." Bob has shown would be excelent for this job.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by The Master Cylinder

The one made by Mitchell, the O/D people. Works on all Model A hubs.

I have made a few of these and sold a couple. I was impressed by the design and even more impressed by how well they worked. BRILLIANT!

[Pete]

Lets assume you have a repair shop and need to pull a model A rear hub to do the brakes.
The car is a typical "driver" and is mostly stock.
Almost all of the previously listed methods will get the rear hub off. Mainly because they were not running at original factory specs. (various reasons)
Now, a slightly modified model A comes in the shop.
The owner uses it in "model A games" at national meets and local get togethers. He has a "touring " engine and drives the car at legal freeway speeds regularly.
He has weld on safety hubs, laps the hubs to the axles and torques the nuts to book specs.
I guarantee you that most of the previously listed methods WILL NOT break the hub loose.
You will need a puller that pulls from the puller groove in the hub, (a few shown previously) a hard high nut and a torch with a rosebud tip. (NEVER use a puller that pulls from the studs)
You install the nut to just flush with the axle end, then the puller. Now be sure the puller screw has a FLAT end. (some have a "tit" on the end.)
Tighten the puller to at least 250 ft. lb.
Heat the hub to no more than 300F. (It should NEVER change color)
It will pop loose, usually with a very loud noise.

A safety tip: NEVER try to pull ANY hub without a nut partially screwed on the axle end.

[Joe K]

In Dad's "stuff" were two "Knockoff wheel pullers" - one is the Model A variant. The other is "larger?" (Bigger thread)

Dad had a Model A RPU ($25 car, sold back to the junkyard for $25) and later a 1936 Ford Sedan. (This the car he drove immediately after WWII. Probably left at his return to Ft. Knox about 1945.)

What might this larger knock off one be for?


Joe K

[Benson]

delete

[Kurt in NJ]

The A and the 36 have the same axle threads

[jg61hawk]

I have another hub-related question, though.
I've helped a friend fight with his. It was a car that had sat for decades.
On a car that is properly maintained and driven, are those rear hubs still miserable to pull? Is it safe to use copper-eaze or something similar on the taper?

The axle should be dry...and the hub clean and dry. Lubricants will allow the hub to get too far up the taper and possible crack the hub. Assemble dry and clean.

[J Franklin]

What is the question?

[Pete]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

What is the question?

The question was, "What is the question?"