Harmon Collins build thread ...

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

This is just the start of a thread on the Harmon Collins distributor build . I have 3-4 of these in the shop and have just stopped just to build these units . I will include a step by step blow by blow as we go over the next couple weeks .
I have done quite a few of these over the years and will include part numbers etc for different stuff.
So lets start with the WHY do you need a Harmon Collins dual coil set up for the flathead ????

And i guess you could answer that with you dont need it .

However there was a time when you could experience a gain from the dual coils etc. Lets pretend its 1944 or so and you have built your 50th flathead and each one you and Jed down at the Esso station had figured out how to make one run a much higher rpm band from stock . Assuming its 1944 there wasnt many options even with a small tow ignition guru with a old allen or sun machine .
I remember hauling a box of parts wrapped in a army blanket to another town and having some top secret work done (early 60s for me), put the heads back in the blanket then taking them back to the station . ( we ran a flathead on a local dirt track and the rules were stock engines , up to 53 ) Years later i began to understand that the out of town shop was flycutting the heads so the valves didnt hit the head!!!
So lets assume you do need it and think they LOOK cool !!
The Harmon Collins dual coil is a pretty simple unit utilizing tow seperate coils and acts as two four cylinder ignition systems utilizing a increased dwell time per coil firing event , ( so there IS a advantage ) Distributor cam is ground to provide four cylinder action thru the bendix aircraft platinum contacts !!! Platium high quality contacts are very reliable and may or may not need replacement .
SO FOR DISCUSSION SAKE LETS ASUME YOU DO NEED THE ENHANCED SYSTEM .......
SO LETS DISCUSS AS WE GO , I WILL ADD AS TIME ALLOWS ........

[42merc]

Save

[STAN WHITE]

Bubba I think I bought a couple of condensers from you for my Harmon& Collins dual coil ignitions. I also am going to run an H&C Ignition. I have one that I ran for years , That I will probly run again. I also have two new H&C in the box just incase. Interested to hear the rest of the story from you. I also like others info. Thanks. Stan

[JM 35 Sedan]

This will be a good one to follow. I think I had asked if you could do this for us some years ago, around the time you did the crab build thread.

[fortyonerag]

Subscribed

[38 coupe]

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Just to be clear, it looks to me like the Harmon Collins unit is a reworking of the stock 42-48 V8 distributor. Is this correct? If so, I'm guessing that a really dedicated person could make the conversion parts today since there are plenty of stock distributors still around (not interested myself, I've always run out of bravery exceeding the speed limit before my stock drive lines ran out of acceleration).

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

A little sunday morning discussion , ( baby its cold outside at 2 degrees in Indy ) so glad i insulated this shop really well!!!
Looking at the unit on the bench the lower section below the line is the parts needed to make it the " Harmon Collins distributor . Someone asked if they could just "make" the parts , i would say "probably not" ...
From left to right

1- u shaped condensor mount to mount the condensors (one for each coil)
2-Point plate with Bendix Aircraft contacts mounted one set per coil
3-Cap clips ( 49-53 loadamatic )
4-distributor cam with everyother one ground off (machine ground )
5-Dual coil special rotor with carbon button on bottom
6-secondary ring with brass contact and secondary coil connection
7-Harmon collins ( no center bump inside ) also special cap assembly
8-two long screws to allow primary ignition hook up
9-upper left rotor adapter to allow special rotor to fit crab

We will massage and clean all these parts and adjust as we go .
Upper parts will be treated as usual........

[FLTHDCPE]

Do a search, both here & on H.A.M.B. Someone has already tried this. A lot of work and expense, and the results were not all that good.!! Ask me how I know.?

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Ok some more work today :

One of the weak points on a collins is the plastics , think about it they are are at the least 50 years old . When new they used 6 volts and very low current levels ( maybe 4 to 5 amps at the most ) . One of the problems is what i call "chevrolet mentality" . Chevrolet mentality is when you and your "chevrolet " friend think that 12 volts and a .4 ohm msd super coil made Grumpy Jenkins Camaro run fast it should work on your early ford !!! And it will work at least for a little time .
We suggest using the Bosch blue coil from amazon .com # 00012 Bosch Blue ......

Heres a secondary ignition law for you ....

YOU CAN NOT PREVENT SECONDARY IGNITION FROM FINDING A PATH TO GROUND !!! EVEN IN A VERY OPEN CIRCUIT "IT WILL SEEK AND FIND A GROUND SOMEWHERE "
IF YOU OPEN CIRCUIT THE SPARK WILL TRAVEL THRU SOMWHERE EVEN THOUGH YOU MAY NOT SEE IT OR WHERE IT WENT .

So using those thoughts the other issue with these distributor is they often will only run on four cylinders . What we have found is that the secondary spark is grounded somewhere ???
To help prevent this we use GE Gyptal insulating paint , the holes for the coil screws are a great place for voltage to arch and kill four cylinders are treated with a coat of gyptal paint as well as the inside the distributor cap.
These parts are kinda hard to get but dzus on the board used to make some replacements . ( more about that later )

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Another blip for today , amazon just dropped off some new Bosch Coils for this project .
Brazil made for German Bosch # 9 220 081 083
us # 00012 cost approx $50 each
3.0 ohms so no resistor needed
I have never ever seen a defective one !!!!
Can be mounted in any position, dont like the color paint them or use stick-um paper checkered flag etc ......

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by 38 coupe

Just to be clear, it looks to me like the Harmon Collins unit is a reworking of the stock 42-48 V8 distributor. Is this correct? If so, I'm guessing that a really dedicated person could make the conversion parts today since there are plenty of stock distributors still around (not interested myself, I've always run out of bravery exceeding the speed limit before my stock drive lines ran out of acceleration).

Tyrell Pennington in Alaska is making new dual coil distributors using the rabbit ear style crabs. He goes by tradrod1930 on Instagram. They look killer.

[FLTHDCPE]

It should look like this.

[FLTHDCPE]

Lets try this again. Attached is a file showing the mounting of two "Bosch Blue " coils that "Bubba" refers to in his post for the "Harman & Collins" duel coil ignition system. This is the way I chose to do it.

[tubman]

The only thing that would improve that picture is adding a couple of proper condensers.

[FLTHDCPE]

I had two of your"proper condensers" on this distributor before these. I experienced an ignition problem and changed to the ones that are on there now. I sent you a "PM"

[tubman]

Originally Posted by FLTHDCPE

I had two of your"proper condensers" on this distributor before these. I experienced an ignition problem and changed to the ones that are on there now. I sent you a "PM"

I am in the process of answering your "PM". I don't think it would be proper to get into a discussion of what happened on the general discussion board as others are involved.

[FLTHDCPE]

Like this one better.!! This is what I like.!! "Ole Timey" Look.!!

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by FLTHDCPE

Lets try this again. Attached is a file showing the mounting of two "Bosch Blue " coils that "Bubba" refers to in his post for the "Harman & Collins" duel coil ignition system. This is the way I chose to do it.

shish ?? I happen to know that his "wife" actually did the coil covering , tell her Bubba said "good job ""!!!!!!

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Todays discussion is the harmon collins contacts .

The contacts are aircraft magneto points ( the very best quality platium) very dependable and hardly ever fail ( keep the coil resistance at 3.0 ohms ) NO MSD blastr stuff !!!!
In many cases we dont have to replace , just a good clean up with brake clean and a $2 bill for emory cloth ( money is the finest emory cloth you can buy ) Just spray some brake clean on a folded bill and polish the closed contacts . Works very very good .
The point plate is a modified crab plate , brass contact straps are removed and cut off , screws and point posts are discarded .
We lightly blast the plate ( i use a mixture of glass and light abrasive) and paint with trans star black primer ( the very best paint for the job) .
Reuse the factor wire leads if possible and reinstall to plate .......
LOOKS GREAT ...




Note got a pm from whygoby that DZUS has passed away a few weeks back , and he had a few ( small quanity) new rotors for the Collins he had made ???


Another note : Terry my part time guy just happened to have a pocket full of $2 bills . Left over from his old strip club days !!! Hes 80 and said he got a lot of use out of twos sometimes picking up 50 or so each week when he cashed his check ??? I dont understand but some will ????

[Als48]

I Got a hot rod Ford and a Two-Dollar Bill,

Ha ha

[alchemy]

I found a website for Chief Aircraft Parts and they don't show anything with that part number. Can you let us know the application or another part number?

What do you think about hand grinding the "extra" cam bumps off by hand? If I could finish the surface nicely, does it need to be a perfect profile, or would "gone" be good enough?

I've got two complete units, but another spare inner cap and rotor that could possibly be turned into a third distributor.

And, thanks for the hint that the cap clips are off a loadamatic. I'll have to strip them off before I toss the next one of those in the recycle bucket.

[37Ford]

I have used Bendix aircraft contacts (# 10-357174) in my HC.

[Terry,OH]

You can grind off every other lobe of the cam but where do you start, what lobe? So be careful. You may have to modify the points slightly to get the wires to attach with the lock washers and nuts. The Bendix 10-357174 has to be slightly modified or 10-52344W is original.

[v8fordman]

Does anyone make the bracket or have a drawing with the dimensions for the condenser bracket? What condensers will work or does anyone have any originals for sale?

[KiWinUS]

Jay I can get measurements & take pics of one of my brackets if that helps you. Cheers. Tony

[tubman]

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Just about any good condensers will work. If it's looks you're after, original Mallory "Trash Cans" are available and pop up on eBay occasionally. However, almost all of these (even those NOS "in the box") usually have split cases. If you find a couple test them before use, including "heat cycling" them. I got discouraged by the used units, so I made my own. A lot of guys used them, so I make and sell them on a limited basis. $50.00 to forum members plus $8.00 shipping.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by v8fordman

Does anyone make the bracket or have a drawing with the dimensions for the condenser bracket? What condensers will work or does anyone have any originals for sale?

Here ya go from the bench today ........

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Some condesnor work today , bracket dimentions in previous post answer ..
The Collins is a very good example of two 4 cylinder systems , we are using the 3.0 ohms Bosch blue coils and two Vertex Magneto condensors ( these are the very best condensor available today ) My friend owns a very serious racing magneto business and has these made ( high quality) to service his customers . They test at .36 mfd and use a soldered end ground which makes them bullett proof !!
Note the connectors are NOT soldered , he claims a crimped connection is better than soldered one as solder will vibrate and break !!!

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

condensor pics collins

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Some more assembly for today .......
The shaft appears to be the stock crab unit , the cam has been ground off slightly on one side ( detailed pic to help if ya need the index to grind your own ) On assembly i use a new clearance washer as most are kinda ground up after some use , ( my friend Mike Baker made me some of these a few years back , hes a diehard early Ford guy that owned a machine shop) and i use a smaller snap ring ( From 3rd Generation Mike Driscal) , makes assembly easier and adds a little bit of clearance . ( shaft must spin easy by hand , if it dont ya did something wrong )
Spark retard ring is also pretty standard ring .....
I use spray lube on all these parts and mobil one red grease on bushings etc .
There is a couple mods to the actual case i will address later in the build .
Install the point plate and snap ring and its looking pretty good ........

A note on the peanut butter crackers on the bench , my helper Terry hides them all over the shop and its my job to eat them , dont really like them (not) but it hurts his feelings if i dont keep them ate up ???

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Ok back on it this monday morning .
Assemble the shaft etc , adjust contacts to .015 before testing can begin . Both set at .015 mount on tester and use "house" Vertex" test lead will mount both condensors later.
Each wire is 4 cylinders adjust on dwell meter to be perfect ( 015 is 70 degrees of dwell) and each degree of dwell is 2 degrees of engine timing !!
Both sets MUST be synced ( cant imagine this ever being correct with out a machine !!!!???
Note that after adjusting one set and checking the sync of the other side it is 4 degrees ( 8 degrees of engine timing ) and must be readjusted , not hard to do on a distributor machine .
If left alone one gang of four cylinders would run out of time ( sync) with the other gang !!!!!!! This is true with all the dual coil sytems .
Now we have the primary ( section one) ignition adjusted and timed so we can move on to part two ( the hard part ) checking the high voltage part of the dual coil using higher voltage for the secondary ignition firing the spark plugs .
Stay tuned we are geting there .
Something we take for granite here is the BUZZ of the distributor . After a while everyone can tell if its wrong just bu sound , this one has a very smooth BUZZ at 3000 rpm !!!!!!!! yea !!!!!!

[STAN WHITE]

Bubba I have a question on the vacuum brake. I was told by a Flathead engine builder that I did not need to use the vacuum brake. he said that I needed to back it off by a couple of turns. This was on a highly modified 59AB Engine. It ran great is this correct? Stan

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Wow , the engine builder was running on a myth !!!! I disagree , the vacuum brake is needed at the very least to prevent spark scatter . With no tension on the retard ring the spark will jump back and forth ( I call it spark scatter as that’s what it looks like on a distributor )
I will illustrate as time allows ..,

[KiWinUS]

Great thread Bubba. Are there any significant differences (other than the obvious) from the Crab H&C to the 8BA style H&C.
Thanks
Tony

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

Great thread Bubba. Are there any significant differences (other than the obvious) from the Crab H&C to the 8BA style H&C.
Thanks
Tony

I have done some loadamatic collins units as far as i can tell they are pretty close to being the same set ups .

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Some more discussion today :

The Harmon Collins uses a standard set of advance weights and spark ring .
( I have three in the building a each one has the advance slot modified ) So i think the orginal units have a stock advance adjustment and the hot rodders have made the slot wider etc .
This example is comparing the one i have here to a stock alum and cast iron unit on the bench..
Tuners almost want more of everything and the Ford crab doesnt leave much for adjustment with two bolt hold own and very little adjustment .
This one has 22 degrees of adjustment (measured on dist tester ) stock is 12 or 6 either direction compared to 11 either retard or advance .
My dyno time has shown that a 4 degrees change was a ton on the dyno.!!!!!

I use a ton of mobil one grease on piston leather to help seal the piston and provide lube for movement !!

Note : You are somewhat limited to timing advance as too far will cause rotor index to be way off and cause a misfire either low or high rpm !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

SOME more for this afternoon :

New nuts ( bras) and screws for the primary connections. Pay attention to the seondary ring the cap , rotor and connections to the condensors .
Make sure the rotor adapter is pushed ALL the way down if not rotor damage will occur !!!

Something new i have been thinking about for some time is a secondary test with live 12 volt battery and all plugs hooked up...
We have the primary synced and adjusted but havent loaded the secondary , my friend Ed at Mag Tech made me this bar for 8 and 12 cylinder secondary testing .
This will allow me to actually test the spark to each plug and test ( with a scope ) if i want to........
Remember i have a couple here that will only fire 4 cylinders ....

[spendingtheirinheritance]

You have one H-C unit there that fires 7 cylinders like magic. However #1 cylinder gets zero spark. You can take #1 wire off the plug and put it to your tongue and get nothing--it's a very accurate test. I've changed caps and wires, cleaned everything and still #1 finds an alternative ground. Perhaps hooking up your sparkplug bar will help find the answer.

You began this thread asking if we really need this H-C dual coil set up. Practically no. The car runs great with the crab. However the car itself needs the set up.

It's a 32 roadster, Merc crank, ported and relieved, pre-war slingshot manifold, cheater heads, 37 LaSalle transmission, Culver City Halibrand quickie, Ed Stewart dropped axle, Lincolns on all four corners, and a killer set Of Halibrand six-pin knock-off smoothies to ride on.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by spendingtheirinheritance

You have one H-C unit there that fires 7 cylinders like magic. However #1 cylinder gets zero spark. You can take #1 wire off the plug and put it to your tongue and get nothing--it's a very accurate test. I've changed caps and wires, cleaned everything and still #1 finds an alternative ground. Perhaps hooking up your sparkplug bar will help find the answer.

You began this thread asking if we really need this H-C dual coil set up. Practically no. The car runs great with the crab. However the car itself needs the set up.

It's a 32 roadster, Merc crank, ported and relieved, pre-war slingshot manifold, cheater heads, 37 LaSalle transmission, Culver City Halibrand quickie, Ed Stewart dropped axle, Lincolns on all four corners, and a killer set Of Halibrand six-pin knock-off smoothies to ride on.

Good example of when ya gotta have a Harmon Collins , i agree !!!

[KiWinUS]

Now that’s what you call “a hot rod”

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by spendingtheirinheritance

You have one H-C unit there that fires 7 cylinders like magic. However #1 cylinder gets zero spark. You can take #1 wire off the plug and put it to your tongue and get nothing--it's a very accurate test. I've changed caps and wires, cleaned everything and still #1 finds an alternative ground. Perhaps hooking up your sparkplug bar will help find the answer.

You began this thread asking if we really need this H-C dual coil set up. Practically no. The car runs great with the crab. However the car itself needs the set up.

It's a 32 roadster, Merc crank, ported and relieved, pre-war slingshot manifold, cheater heads, 37 LaSalle transmission, Culver City Halibrand quickie, Ed Stewart dropped axle, Lincolns on all four corners, and a killer set Of Halibrand six-pin knock-off smoothies to ride on.

Cass yer next on the list will get er done .......................

[Shaun1162]

Great thread, very informative. They certainly are cool looking!

[Shaun1162]

That roadster looks great too!

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Well would ya look at that ! The postman delivered this Harmon Colling unit with two ford coils and a new rotor and secondary spark ring !! Pretty slick unit ??????????
Hopefully i will get some secondary testing done today ??

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Ok its monday and i am back on the build . Got the unit spining in the machine , hooked up the twin Bosch blue coils for a quick look at the spark output without the plug wires . ( secondary testing is next )f , both sides of the primary are kinking some good spark out the coil wire and seem very stable with rpm.
So NOW i got to look at the firing order and get the plug wires on my new secondary spark plug bar .........news at 11 as they used to say ..

[FLTHDCPE]

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[IMG]New brass condensers[/IMG]

Here they are.!! New Condensers installed and running. Waiting for a test Ride.
Thanks "Tubman"

[FLTHDCPE]

Lets try this again, Here's the pic's.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by FLTHDCPE

[IMG]New brass condensers[/IMG]

Here they are.!! New Condensers installed and running. Waiting for a test Ride.
Thanks "Tubman"

You're welcome, Steve. I'm sure these will work fine for you. I have to say that it was a pleasure sending them to a guy with name like yours. In the words of Wayne and Garth, "I'm not worthy!".

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Ok back to it , planning on finishing up this collins unit today .....

check primary both terminals on machine .......good

install coil and wire each to fire secondary voltage !!!!!

Note that most problems are i the high voltage side of the units !!!

Note these plug wire firing order ( and the changes) , open for discussion , one of you suck-squeeze--bang -- blows guys need to look this over and respond !!!!!

Thanks flthdcpe for the diagrams

[Automotive Stud]

I'm still curious to hear what you think about the reproduced rotor and center cap that was being offered a while back? I had a set but wound up letting it go.

[Terry,OH]

The HC does not change fireing order it is still the same as the typical Ford distributor. Yes the plug wires connect to different terminals on the cap as indicated. The reproduction rotors and intermediate cap are very good.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by Automotive Stud

I'm still curious to hear what you think about the reproduced rotor and center cap that was being offered a while back? I had a set but wound up letting it go.

I have used a couple o Dzus units with good results , ( he passed ya know) so they are no longer available .......

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

While i dont disagree with Terry Ohio , we need to be carefull how its stated . Yes the firing order doesnt change BUT the sequence :: ie comp vs ex sure does .
If you use the factory wiring placement you will loose a cylinder or two???

Now lets discuss my last few weeks and some responding to what we have learned .
To start with the ignition system is primary and secondary .

Primary is usually 12 volts ( maybe 6 ) and has a inductive kick when the coil fires of lets say 200-250 volts!!! If the secondary has a problem then this voltage is higher . ( note when i worked for Allen Test products our testers would flag a problem as soon as you hooked the machine up IF this voltage was over 250 volts .
I had a hot rod 66 chevy truck i used in class and this primary voltage would jump to 450 volts as soon as you opened up a spark plug wire !!!

Another fact : There is no such thing as a perfect insulator !!! IF voltage is high enough ( reason for fence around transformers etc . ) Voltage will travel thru the air if the voltage is high enough!!!

A open secondary will ALWAYS go to ground somewhere in the circuit even though you dont see ( or feel) it ! And once the voltage has found that path it will do it again if need to do so !!!!!!!!

All of these dual coil v8 units have a problem with these facts !!

I found that when i tried to fire only four of the eight plugs spark would in fact fire all eight terminals at the cap and sometimes all eight plugs would fire with only one primary wire hooked up.......

So my suggestions are :

Use the harmon collins firing sequence

Wipe all wires caps etc with wd 40 ( a water dispersant )

Use solid core wires with good connections

dont run a open circuit

Make sure all wiring is in good shape and use the largest wiring you can ..

More as i finsih my next two and load them down .......

[Zeke3]

Professor, will this be on the final exam?

I don't have a HC ignition, but it is interesting to learn about them.

[Bored&Stroked]

The Harman Collins firing order (on the cap) is mandatory! The reason is that you have a two-pole rotor, so the firing jumps form side to side as each coils fire.

This changes the plug wiring order on the cap. On all original HC distributors, they remarked the caps by melting a new cylinder number in the four locations that are different.

If you attempt to route your plug wires to match the stock Ford crab cap - you'll have 4 cylinders firing at the wrong time. I learned this the hard way when I built my first flathead race engine at 15 years old. I didn't have a HC cap - didn't think about it - and made plug wires to match the Ford numbers. Tried to start the engine and it backfired so heavily that it blew the oil dip stick out of the pan and hit dear old Mom right in the chest.

So, I knew something was drastically wrong and sat down and looked at the distributor and figured out the issue. Guess I was a fairly smart kid - made sense of it all on my own in about an hour . . . as I guess I didn't want to kill my Mother (who always helped me in the garage!).

I ran an HC distributor for about 3 years on the street - always ran well except for occasional condenser failures. Joe Hunt set mine up for me from the get-go - so at least one knows it was done right. Later on I put a HC Mag on the engine - about the same time the SCoT blower went on . . .

I've got about 4 of them to rebuild - guess I should get started!

Thanks Bubba - great to see your posts!

[mcharley40]

Sorry to hear that

[STAN WHITE]

Bubba A few questions. First I purchased two of your Condensers they are very nice, Very satisfied. My question is on the Blue Bosch 12 volt coils. I understand that they are 3 Ohms and have a built in resister. I think above mentioned that a resistor is not needed with a 3 ohm coil. So I am alittle confused? Also where should I buy 2 ea Bosch coiles . Do you handel that? Plus looks to me that I might have to make a new brkt to hold condensers on a H&C Distributor.Does the length of the wire being longer should I stay with the same Gage? I have not ran this Engine since 1989. I was running it with a H&C Ignition I just bolted it up and it ran great. I might have been over doing it but it would go to 6K rpm No problem. !/4 X5 276 C I. Running a Potvin .425 Cam. Ed Bingly Engine. I also have two new H&C Distributors that I purchaed 35 Years Ago. Might be willing to sell one. Thanks for any info that you can privide. Stan White. 775 265 5333 Gardnerville,Nevada

[34fivewindow]

Originally Posted by STAN WHITE

Bubba A few questions. First I purchased two of your Condensers they are very nice, Very satisfied. My question is on the Blue Bosch 12 volt coils. I understand that they are 3 Ohms and have a built in resister. I think above mentioned that a resistor is not needed with a 3 ohm coil. So I am alittle confused? Also where should I buy 2 ea Bosch coiles . Do you handel that? Plus looks to me that I might have to make a new brkt to hold condensers on a H&C Distributor.Does the length of the wire being longer should I stay with the same Gage? I have not ran this Engine since 1989. I was running it with a H&C Ignition I just bolted it up and it ran great. I might have been over doing it but it would go to 6K rpm No problem. !/4 X5 276 C I. Running a Potvin .425 Cam. Ed Bingly Engine. I also have two new H&C Distributors that I purchaed 35 Years Ago. Might be willing to sell one. Thanks for any info that you can privide. Stan White. 775 265 5333 Gardnerville,Nevada

Here you go Stan

[STAN WHITE]

34 five window, Thanks for the photo brings back many memories! Ed was a good guy very knoelgable person I learned a lot from him. I went up to I think Windsor when he had his Willys there bought him a bottle of Brandy & a box of good Cigars. That was the last time I saw him. I miss talking to him. I have two of his Engines. It was amazing the extensive work he performed on the blocks when building his engines. Mainly on the end exhaust ports! I assume from your location that you know Vern Tardel. Any way I am doing an original 34 3WDW have had it for thirty five years. I looked for one since the early 50s. This car is special to me as it is perfect in every way. Original paint (Black) it has the original stripe in places. No holes drilled no rust. I am doing it as an early 50s car. Give me your e mail and I will send some photos. I was in the Richmond area in my younger days. Stan 775 265 5333

[34fivewindow]

Originally Posted by STAN WHITE

34 five window, Thanks for the photo brings back many memories! Ed was a good guy very knoelgable person I learned a lot from him. I went up to I think Windsor when he had his Willys there bought him a bottle of Brandy & a box of good Cigars. That was the last time I saw him. I miss talking to him. I have two of his Engines. It was amazing the extensive work he performed on the blocks when building his engines. Mainly on the end exhaust ports! I assume from your location that you know Vern Tardel. Any way I am doing an original 34 3WDW have had it for thirty five years. I looked for one since the early 50s. This car is special to me as it is perfect in every way. Original paint (Black) it has the original stripe in places. No holes drilled no rust. I am doing it as an early 50s car. Give me your e mail and I will send some photos. I was in the Richmond area in my younger days. Stan 775 265 5333

Stan..... Ed was my Father's best friends. they grew up and went to school together. I was actually named after him, and spent my spare time at the Speed Shop up until it closed in 1972.

This is the last picture of him and I at his shop at home.......Ed

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by STAN WHITE

Bubba A few questions. First I purchased two of your Condensers they are very nice, Very satisfied. My question is on the Blue Bosch 12 volt coils. I understand that they are 3 Ohms and have a built in resister. I think above mentioned that a resistor is not needed with a 3 ohm coil. So I am alittle confused? Also where should I buy 2 ea Bosch coiles . Do you handel that? Plus looks to me that I might have to make a new brkt to hold condensers on a H&C Distributor.Does the length of the wire being longer should I stay with the same Gage? I have not ran this Engine since 1989. I was running it with a H&C Ignition I just bolted it up and it ran great. I might have been over doing it but it would go to 6K rpm No problem. !/4 X5 276 C I. Running a Potvin .425 Cam. Ed Bingly Engine. I also have two new H&C Distributors that I purchaed 35 Years Ago. Might be willing to sell one. Thanks for any info that you can privide. Stan White. 775 265 5333 Gardnerville,Nevada

Bosch coils amazon.com Bosch blue 00012

[spendingtheirinheritance]

Bubba

The suspense is killing me. Any new progress on the H-C's?

[mfirth]

Bubba, good to see you "at it' again. Hope you are doing well health wise.