35-5window coupe

[robert shreveport]

I have already pm'd a few guys on the forum about this car but would like to hear the general consensus from the general forum itself. I am considering buying a 35 5-window coupe. It is a restored car with the original flathead engine. It is in a closed building, unheated and not cooled, and has not been started in 15 yrs. I know what he is asking for it and believe it may be too much 20,000. Because of it not being cranked in so long I wonder what shape the engine is currently in and how I might get it to running. The condition of the gas tank I also am concerned with. The carb. doesn't concern me too much. I have been told, by a good older friend who has seen the car and has no monetary benefit being derived from it's sale that it is a super nice looking car. I know beauty is in the eye of the beholder but!! What is the consensus of the forum on what I have said that I know about it so far? Is the 5 window coupe a desirable car? IS a 35 any more or less desirable than 34,36,37,38,39 or even the 40. Probably the body metal soundness is the most important aspect. IF it is rust free and the upholstery is in good condition and NO signs of mice that will be a big plus for the condition. Have a 31 "A" and 55 chevy but have been looking at the 32-40 fords for a while now. This may be a car that I should not "pass on" and I am reluctant to go and see it without more knowledge of it's value and feedback from people who have "been there". Being a complete car is always a plus for a start

[Straightpipes]

Robert,
A lot of unknowns here. All that you mentioned would be of concern. I'd want to hear it run and get it out where you can get a good look at it. Thats quite a lot for a car that isn't running and may need quite a bit of work. I'd like to think they are worth that. I have a 35 5 window that is on the road and running great and I wouldn't expect nearly 20K.

Get up under there and look for rust in the rear kickup area of the frame.

You'll have to plan on some work. I'd say that the fuel tank will need to come out for inspection and cleaning. All fluids need to be changed. All brake drums should be inspected. New battery, on and on. You will probably spend another grand bringing it back to life.

[TonyM]

Originally Posted by robert shreveport

I know beauty is in the eye of the beholder ... Is the 5 window coupe a desirable car? IS a 35 any more or less desirable than 34,36,37,38,39 or even the 40.

To me, all pre-war Fords are "desirable." What is desirable to you? Some guys like open cars more, some like coupes more, some like 3 windows more than five windows. It depends on the guy when it comes to desirability.

[35koop]

i just bought an older resto 35 5w deluxe coupe that had been sat in south africa , described pretty much the same , took me 4 days to get the alloy heads off and they are shot with corrosion from the inside , and there's a broken piston in there too just for good measure ... the car did run but acted like it was the fuel so be aware of what you may end up with ..

paul .

[flatheadfan]

Robert-

First, just about any Pre-War Fords are desirable with only a few exceptions. Second, if possible only consider a car that is close to 100% complete. Getting and finding quality early V8 parts is getting more and more difficult. Unfortunately, this rareness can rapidly deplete your car fund. Finely, give us some pictures so we can put things into some sort of mental framework to make a judgment on the car's potential. Oh yes, '35 and '36s are my favorites but others have their own list. A picture of my '35 5 window coupe.

Tom

[Mart]

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Great looking coupe, Tom, I think the fact that the wheels are not red clinches it for me.

Mart.

[1952henry]

Although your nose could detect recent rodent dormers, I would visually inspect the interior and all wires to make sure squatters hadn't been there before being served eviction notices.

[Mike in Mass]

Its nice to find a complete car but as my dad says the body ,the body ,the body , thats what your buying, everything thing else can be bolted on ,,,get it out in the sunlight eyeball it down the lines feel it where it comes down to the running board right in front of the rear tire , has it been rolled ,patched,smucked up with plastic , back before the internet( 1985ish) we drove to Nebraska to look at an original 38 coupe. all the guy talked about was how good it ran, my dad hung out with him at the front of the car talking about the motor while I started feeling my way around the body soon as my dad saw my face ,he said I knew we were not buying the car, you couldn,t really see it ,but you could feel the ripples on the roof where it had been hit by somthing big , the body is it just my 2 cents good luck hope its nice mp

[Neal]

It has to be very nice for $20,000. Five windows are nice but they do not get three window or roadster price. Do some looking around for a basis on price.

Neal

[G.M.]

My first car was a 35 5 window in the late 40's the price was $7.50 It ran but burned oil. The fuel system may not be to bad as it was stored before this new gas. Varnish is the main problem and denatured alcohol dissolves it. My biggest concern would be a cracked block from freezing. If it has aluminum heads inspect them for water leaking through the castings. This old aluminum is very porious and tends to leak on the top several inches behind the pumps. I have started a lot of flatheads that sat for years, some over 50 years and all but one turned out to be good running engines. That one a mouse got in and peed on the cam and tappets. DON'T try turn it over you may break something. Remove the sparkplugs and air cleaner. Buy a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil and an air parts washing gun, the syphon type. Put the syphon hose down in the MMO and spray down in all the cylinders. Push on the gas linkage to open the carb plates and spray down both sides of the carb. Let it sit several hours, put it in gear and rock the car to turn the engine a little and give it another shot of MMO. When turning the engine put a rag over the plug holes or MMO will make a mess. Don't get in a hurry and if it ran good when shut down years ago it should still run good. If you like it buy it. If it was running $20,000 is a fair price. G.M.

[robert shreveport]

Thanks guys for all the feedback, my older friend has some pictures of the car that I can look at. We have just missed getting together over the holidays for one reason or another. Today maybe can see pictures and then maybe go and look at it.

[jdl]

And don't be afraid to make a offer you can live with, maybe he will negotiate.

[JM 35 Sedan]

If/when you go look at it, take a bunch of digital pictures and post them here or on a host website so we can see what this car looks like in detail.
Restored means different things to different people, but if this is a professional restoration, with a solid no rust body and other sheetmetal, good running engine and drivetrain, and drives well, it would probably be worth $20k. JMO

[banjoQ]

ultimately, only you know weather you will want to commit to this car. I have a soft spot for 35's myself. When it comes to horsetradin' I like to keep what I want to spend in one pocket and what I might have to spend in the other. No sense showing your hand if you don't have too. I would make an appointment with the man to inspect the vehicle. Show up with a floor jack, stands and a creeper. Prepare to look at everything under the car and inside and out. Take a couple of hours, it will send a clear message that you are a player for the car. IMHO, the tank should be considered yard art and replaced. As for the motor, that's a coin flip. I just got one running after a 50 year sleep. Cost nearly a couple of grand to get it right. The good part is the mech. brakes. Easier to get right after a long storage. Be positive, yet conservative with the seller. Make an honest offer and get ready to haggle. Lowballing here will only set the tone for the rest of the deal. Cash in hand can be a powerful tool! Good luck with your deal and be sure to post a photo when you can.

[34coupe]

Try and find a local member of the early Ford v8 club that has some knowledge on flatheads, and what your concerns are, then go check it out, kick the tires, stick your head in the holes, crawl under it and over, ask questions, make a offer, but make sure its THE CAR YOU WANT ! if you really want a 34 roadster or a 36 cabriolet you probably wont ever be happy with a 35 coupe. if your looking for a 30s coupe with more room and more power and will turn some heads, then I think you found your car, good luck and keep us posted.