Light Switch and Wiring Observations and Questions

[Kevin in NJ]

I plan on ordering a wiring harness in the not to distant future. So I thought I would look close at the original parts I have since I do not intend to use a repro switch plate.

I am only dealing with 30-31 style parts.

In the first picture you will see 4 plates. On the back side you will see the bottom tab is square or has a T shape. I am guessing there is a manufacturer difference.

In the next 2 pictures you see 3 plates. These all have the T shaped tab. Notice the one on the right has smaller diameter rivet heads that the switch bumps contact. They also have a slightly different rivet upset.

Not sure there is anything significant to these. What I have noticed are some slightly loose tabs on the rivet and one the rivet caused the tab to crack. I do not know if this is an electrical issue one would need to be concerned with, but I am using the plate with all solidly riveted tabs.

I have also noticed that the T tab plates all had flags soldered on the original wires that were set up to handle one or two wires except the horn contact was a single.

I have included 2 picts of what I suspect to be original wiring. The harness was cut about 8" from the plate. These are reference photos for later if I am soldering in a repro harness. I can get the wire flag direction correct for best fit (I hope).

Which leads me to actual wire. I have 2 units with what I am strongly believe is original Ford wire. I would not call myself 100%, but it looks good.

Most are used to calling out wire by outer gauge. I wanted to know more about the number of strands and the gauge of the strands. What I found has be scratching my head a bit. I need to dig up a better wire type chart.

In one harness all the wires were the same 16 strands of about .013" (might really be closer to .0127") wire.

In the other harness the wires heading off to the head lamps are different. The 3 pairs of wire are 7 strands of .0195 (the 5 is a guesstimation).

So what am I seeing here?
Does anyone know what was called out on the factory drawings?

Finally,

What have you guys found in the various repro harnesses currently available?

Thanks,

Kevin

[d.j. moordigian]

Kevin,

I figured Marco would / should comment. I plan on using Sacramento Vintage
harness for my e-28,....I believe they use the the correct wire gauge.

So,...back too the top..

[Ron in Quincy]

Sacramento Vintage make their harnesses in house, have a original wiring loom machine and do a good soldering job. Just my opinion.

Ron

[kcav8or]

I just bought some harnesses from Snyder's. Haven't installed them yet. Any issues with theirs?

[CarlG]

I have used Sacramento vintage for their harness(es). Can't go wrong with them.

[Marco Tahtaras]

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Your first harness (pic 4) appears to be an Essex harness. Is that the one with different strands in the headlamp wires? The other harness doesn't show enough of the tracers for me to tell if it's Ford or aftermarket. It wouldn't hurt to test the action of your chosen plate in you switch, attached to the column.

As far as the wire strands, I never cared or worried about it and don't really expect to now . As an interesting side note, all wire ends were "dipped in solder" prior to assembly.

[Dale G.]

Kevin,

This is what I do with wiring harnesses, I use original ends, cleaned up as they are made of bakelite and not plastic. The little brass dimples are deeper than repro and will click nicer in the switch assuming your end doesn't have any loose rivets or cracks in the bakelite. Also the horn contact has a better spring in the center than the repro.
I send the ends to Tyree Harris in Bumpass, Virginia. He makes up the harness to Ford specs as in Marco's picture. All the wires will be the correct lengths including the wires to the brake light switch. The repro harness brake light wires are usually too short.
Depending on how you are going to wire your headlights, you would have to tell him to leave off any wire ends so that you may wire them yourself or to just put bullet ends to use connectors. Also he would need to know if your harness is for cowl lights or park lights in the reflectors. He made for me a harness for Fine Point judging and I supplied all the original ends (flags etc.) that show and it passed with flying colors.
Good luck, Dale Gosa.

[d.j. moordigian]

Marco,

Studying Kevin's 1st photo,...the 2 on the left have a different "clocking"
than the 2 on the right....the left set not Model A? What am I missing?

[Marco Tahtaras]

Originally Posted by d.j. moordigian

Marco,

Studying Kevin's 1st photo,...the 2 on the left have a different "clocking"
than the 2 on the right....the left set not Model A? What am I missing?

They work exactly the same as long as there are two triples and a group of three singles. Note that the indexing looks identical on the face. The yellow wire (power source) is joined with green wire (Brake light) so the brake light switch always has power. That is connected to one triple (doesn't matter which one) so power is provided in all three positions. The other triple goes to the tail light so it RECEIVES power in all three positions. The three singles are the only ones that are position dependent so park/low/high each receive power with the proper position of the switch.

[d.j. moordigian]

Thank you........

[Lee Mitch]

Originally Posted by kcav8or

I just bought some harnesses from Snyder's. Haven't installed them yet. Any issues with theirs?

Just installed their complete wire harness with blinker switch. No problems at all. Easy and very good directions.