Hot 59AB

[western77]

Today I drained out the anti freeze added a bottle of irontite ceramic motor seal, removed the thermostats and filled with water. I ran it at a fast idle[ about 1200 rpms] with the hood down mostly for 30min. It ran in the low 190s. No extra fan was used. I shot temps on the head and goose neck which were 15* higher than the shot of the top of the radiator were the water was coming in? Maybe the HF gun. The outside air temp is 10* cooler today than yesterday, may make a difference. But anyway it was a better day. JB

[rheltzel]

Sounds like the sealant sealed a crack. It will be interesting to see if this is a long term fix.

[36fordguy]

western77 -You are running plain water and no thermostats ( S.H. = 1.0 and S.G.=1) and your quiescent temp is 190-195 degrees. This is on the high side. You did not state what pumps you are using. 8RT with new style rotors or ECA pumps (or 8BA). Or Skip's reworked pumps. The quiescent temp id directly related to the volume (GPM) going thru the radiator (thermo dynamics 101) . I know I'm going to get shit about this but thats the way it works. There is a difference in flow rates of the various pumps. You should contact Skip's and get some help from him. He rebuilds the pumps with a different impeller that increases the flow rate with some sacrifice to pressure. I'm not sure if he rebuilds 8RT pumps. The ECA motor has a different casting geometry then an 8BA motor.The block surface behind the water pumps should be open to the internal casting and cleaning the block should be easier. I have the same setup. You want your system to run as a closed loop system. You must purge the system of any air pockets. My truck 1936 with a griffin radiator has an internal filler that creates an air pocket above the filler cap of about 2" at the top of the tank. This causes only gravity flow of water thru the radiator and the new pumps to try and suck water thru the radiator and the reduced pressure at the pumps cause the water to vaporize at a lower temp causing steam. The pumps will not push the water thru the radiator due to the air pocket. I had to go a 13 LB cap in order for my purge tank to purge the air out of my system and I could push/pull the water thru my system. Going to high flow thermo and better pumps only made system work worse. The original Henry system worked until modified. Go back to the original system or modify every thing don't stop in between. My first problem came when I purchased the griffin radiator. The actual flow thru the radiator does not work with the rest of the stock. I know this post will be po poed by a lot of the hamb 36forguy

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by western77

Today I drained out the anti freeze added a bottle of irontite ceramic motor seal, removed the thermostats and filled with water. I ran it at a fast idle[ about 1200 rpms] with the hood down mostly for 30min. It ran in the low 190s. No extra fan was used. I shot temps on the head and goose neck which were 15* higher than the shot of the top of the radiator were the water was coming in? Maybe the HF gun. The outside air temp is 10* cooler today than yesterday, may make a difference. But anyway it was a better day. JB

The temp at the top of the radiator has no purpose at this time. We are trying to see if both sides are cooling plus the water in the top of the radiator is a mixture so it won't tell you what one side is doing. What was the temperatures of each side so we can see the difference. You had a small head gasket leak or a small crack and the sealer fixed the problem. Sounds like your good to go but I would get the valve and fix the cap so you can fill the water up. G.M.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by 36fordguy

western77 -you are running plain water and no thermostats ( s.h. = 1.0 and s.g.=1) and your quiescent temp is 190-195 degrees. This is on the high side. You did not state what pumps you are using. 8rt with new style rotors or eca pumps (or 8ba). Or skip's reworked pumps. The quiescent temp id directly related to the volume (gpm) going thru the radiator (thermo dynamics 101) . I know i'm going to get shit about this but thats the way it works. There is a difference in flow rates of the various pumps. You should contact skip's and get some help from him. He rebuilds the pumps with a different impeller that increases the flow rate with some sacrifice to pressure. I'm not sure if he rebuilds 8rt pumps. The eca motor has a different casting geometry then an 8ba motor.the block surface behind the water pumps should be open to the internal casting and cleaning the block should be easier. I have the same setup. You want your system to run as a closed loop system. You must purge the system of any air pockets. My truck 1936 with a griffin radiator has an internal filler that creates an air pocket above the filler cap of about 2" at the top of the tank. This causes only gravity flow of water thru the radiator and the new pumps to try and suck water thru the radiator and the reduced pressure at the pumps cause the water to vaporize at a lower temp causing steam. The pumps will not push the water thru the radiator due to the air pocket. I had to go a 13 lb cap in order for my purge tank to purge the air out of my system and i could push/pull the water thru my system. Going to high flow thermo and better pumps only made system work worse. The original henry system worked until modified. Go back to the original system or modify every thing don't stop in between. My first problem came when i purchased the griffin radiator. The actual flow thru the radiator does not work with the rest of the stock. I know this post will be po poed by a lot of the hamb 36forguy

????????? G.m.

[western77]

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I am not sure the sealant has taken affect yet. The manufacturer now recommens to drain the water and let the hole system dry out for acouple of days for the ceramic to harden and seal. So thats next on the program starting tomorrow. Have high hopes! JB

[wga]

Western - I used the Irontite ceramic block sealer with success. Did you really clean the block to get remove all traces of the anti freeze? That stuff will not allow the ceramic sealer to migrate into the crack(s). If yes to the cleaning / flush, then drain it all out.
Take off the hoses on the thermo housings to aid in the air flow to dry it out. A shop vac can direct air
into the waterneck housings to aid in drying. Or just remove the thermo housings completely. When dried out after a few days, use some water wetter or purple ice. This stuff will remove water tension. With all this you might have clogged up the radiator some. Once you have run it, might want to get a check on any exhaust gas in the coolant. A local shop used their 'exhaust sniffer' to detect any gasses. Prior to the block sealer it was in the 30 PPM and rising range. Afterward it was in the < 8 PPM. I also had Skip put new impellers on my pumps.
Another thought is that some new cores are using small tubes, although very efficient for a SBC, it is not for a flathead. And coolant cannot properly circulate in these high efficient type cores. I changed from a US Radiator high efficiency to a US Radiator standard automotive. Along with a dual point distributor, I now have a 175 - 190 degree coolant temp. It will hit 205 ish on a run up a long grade, however, when it
levels off, temp returns to 180. This is hot - 85 -90 degree temps.

[western77]

Well, I put water with 20% antifreeze and a bottle of water wetter and took out the thermostats. Getting a good flow of coolant and engine runs below 190* now. Retimed to 4* BTDC. So far so good, thanks for all the help! JB