Checking brakes on 36 panel

[Macdozer]

I am working on a 1936 panel delivery with mechanical brakes.
The cars been sitting for 30 years or so and I think it would be wise to check, clean and repack the wheel bearings . I am wondering if I should check and adjust the brakes first or should I go head and get the bearings squared away?

[JSeery]

On cleaning and packing the bearings are you referring to just the front wheels? If you are wanting to check the brake shoes and drums for wear/condition you will have to pull the drums. That is fairly easy on the front and can be very difficult on the rear. Before attempting to remove the rear drums you might want to read up on it. It is also important to get them back on correctly!

[Charlie ny]

Eric,
Check for evidence of grease on the shoes, not good on any type of brake but really not good with mech brakes. I am 100% in favor of floaters which when properly installed....no big deal....will make your mech brakes pretty close in effectiveness to Ford hydraulics.
Charlie ny

[SofaKing]

In either order will work, personally I'd do the bearings first. My reasoning is that adjusting the brakes requires a certain "feel" and if your bearings are dragging or rough, that may give the false impression the brakes are adjusted too tight. That being said, on the rear getting everything lined up, drum on shoes, hub with bearing, taper shaft and keyway takes some effort and if the shoes are out of alignment it's a real pain. Ditto on what JSeery said about studying-up and get a good puller.

[Macdozer]

I think it would be good to check both front and rear. It sounds like getting the rear hubs off can be a real pain and I'll need the tool to get the rears off.
Charile , ny what do you mean by "floaters" ?

[JSeery]

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Originally Posted by Macdozer

what do you mean by "floaters" ?

They are parts you can add that improve the brakes. As I stated before, you might want to study this a little before you jump in. The shoes on this brakes adjust differently that what you are most likely familiar with. This front drums and brakes should be fairly simple, but the are different than modern bakes.

https://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylc...p=mss&ei=UTF-8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcJ5LUbmro0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EjRe411l3M

[Macdozer]

Been reading up on this some. Things sound pretty straight forward except for the rear.
Getting the rear hubs off sounds like a chore. I just checked with all ford parts on a rear hub puller, at $250 seems really expensive for what it is. Any one know of other places that might be more reasonable?

Also is there a seal in the rear hub? If there is can it be purchased from an auto parts store or is it a special item?

Thanks for all the responses.

[Terry,OH]

The seal for the rear is inside the axle housing. The housing would have to be removed to get at it. There is a sealing washer under the nut and washer, when you remove the nut and washer before pulling the drum pick the seal out, it is hard to see. Check with Winfield Tool and see how much their rear hub puller is. You may have to loosen the shoes so they do not drag on the drums when you remove the drums. best way to do this is to remove clevis pin from the brake rods clevis at each wheel. The clevis is part of the brake adjustment so don't move it until your ready for the adjustment.

[Macdozer]

Good to know about the rear seals.
I called Winfield tool, they no longer make the hub puller , they gave the number to all ford parts.

[moefuzz]

The biggest problem with 80 year old mechanical brakes is generally not the brakes.
All the rods, joints, bushings and gimbal style connectors wear and things move unequally between left and right side brakes.
Key problems are the mechanical infrastructure itself, adequate brake shoes and drums finish the rebuild.

[JSeery]

You might be able to borrow a puller from someone. I know VanPelt has a tool loan program (or did at one time) on some tools.

[Karl Wolf]

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

The seal for the rear is inside the axle housing. The housing would have to be removed to get at it. There is a sealing washer under the nut and washer, when you remove the nut and washer before pulling the drum pick the seal out, it is hard to see. Check with Winfield Tool and see how much their rear hub puller is. You may have to loosen the shoes so they do not drag on the drums when you remove the drums. best way to do this is to remove clevis pin from the brake rods clevis at each wheel. The clevis is part of the brake adjustment so don't move it until your ready for the adjustment.

The inner seal resides inside the axle housing. Access to this is by pulling the bells off the center section and driving them inward, to remove. Install is to drive them toward the wheel side. Labor intensive, to say the least.

There is such a thing as an inner seal that installs from the outside, with only the drum removed, making the worn inner redundant and thusly unnessesary to dissassemble the whole rear. I have saved a couple of them, National brand (for my own use, not for sale). I have posted the National number, do a search. They are obsolete, I've found them on the auction site.

Karl

[Dave D]

Originally Posted by Macdozer

I just checked with all ford parts on a rear hub puller, at $250 seems really expensive for what it is. Any one know of other places that might be more reasonable?

Try removing those hubs without one and you will see how "reasonable" that price is! There is only one correct way to remove those drums without damaging them and this tool is it.

[JSeery]

Early Ford store has one for $50, no idea how good it works or the quality! http://lbcunited.com/earlyford2/prod...4476a54ab18528

[mrtexas]

Here is what I use. Works great: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-REAR-DR...604462&vxp=mtr

There are several styles listed on ebay.

[Macdozer]

Does anyone have a part number for the inner seal on the rear hubs?

Also how do you remove the seal to get the bearing out.

[flatheadfan]

I have used a similar type of Early Ford puller and wouldn't use it again. I have found if the drum is on tight the tightening bolt will mushroom out the threaded portion of the axle shaft regardless of having a nut on to protect the shaft threads. If this happens you have a REAL problem to deal with. Suddenly, $250 for a correct puller looks cheap.

Tom

[flatheadfan]

I have used this puller. It usually does the job, but not always. Enclosed is a picture of a broken one that gave up at slightly under 200 pounds.

Tom