The Ford Barn

56servi · 06-02-2013, 11:10 AM

I reinstalled my oil pad today & after I had all the bolts tightened I tried to turn the engine over with the hand crank. It wouldn't budge.
I had this problem before I took the pan off also. I did have the car running when I got it & before I started to do anything to the engine. After sitting for about 2 months while I worked on the body the engine wouldn't turn with the crank. That is why I removed the head & oil pan. Originally it started to turn easily as soon as I removed the oil pump.
This time I tried to turn it as I was removing bolts from the pan. Still frozen after removing left side bolts. I left the center left on to hold up the pan After removing right side bolts & letting pan drop slightly I could turn it over
I removed the pan & pushed the pump up by hand & it would turn over.
Seems to be a connection between the oil pump & not turning over. The pin on the pump is in the hole in the block & it pushes up flush with the bottom of the block.
Any ideas?

SeaSlugs · 06-02-2013, 11:13 AM

your spring is intact on the bottom of the oil pump isnt it?

Great Lakes Greg · 06-02-2013, 11:18 AM

I think your distributor is seized.

56servi · 06-02-2013, 11:18 AM

Yes spring is on pump

56servi · 06-02-2013, 11:19 AM

Distributor is removed

56servi · 06-02-2013, 11:51 AM

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I put a screwdriver in the dist hole & it turns when I turn the engine.
Pictures of my oil pump

Tom Wesenberg · 06-02-2013, 12:26 PM

Is this a fresh rebuild? I've seen some fresh rebuilds that are very stiff to turn with the hand crank, but the electric starter cranked the engine over fine. Once the engine gets a few hours use, it should be easy to hand crank. My friend had a fresh rebuild and when I was dialing in the flywheel cover I had a hard time getting the crank to turn with the hand crank. Once the crankshaft was turning it was much easier to keep it turning, but after the crank was left untouched for a few minutes it was again stiff to get moving.

56servi · 06-02-2013, 12:37 PM

Operator Error (I think)
I put a new round gasket in the front of the oil pan with the 2 side gaskets. Looking back underneath there is already a round (appears to be rubber of some kind) gasket there so I was trying to use 2 gaskets.
I removed the oil pump to try without to see if it fit & couldn't get the pan up all the way in the front. Looked closer with a light & saw the there gasket. I thought the pan was hard to put up because of the pump spring.

Will reinstall pump & try again.

Why do the pan side gaskets need to go on the block instead of the pan? I have the rubber like gaskets in the front & back of the block & don't see any way to tuck the side gasket tabs behind the gaskets

james hitchcock · 06-02-2013, 07:17 PM

Show a pic of your oil pan. Is the baffle pushed down completely in place ? Maybe the crank is comming against if it's not in place.

james hitchcock · 06-03-2013, 10:17 PM

Did you find out anything on your oil pan problem ?

CarlG · 06-03-2013, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Is this a fresh rebuild? I've seen some fresh rebuilds that are very stiff to turn with the hand crank, but the electric starter cranked the engine over fine. Once the engine gets a few hours use, it should be easy to hand crank. My friend had a fresh rebuild and when I was dialing in the flywheel cover I had a hard time getting the crank to turn with the hand crank. Once the crankshaft was turning it was much easier to keep it turning, but after the crank was left untouched for a few minutes it was again stiff to get moving.

I have a 24-inch ratchet with a 1-3/8 socket to turn the engine with. Even then, like Tom says, let it set for a couple of minutes and it gets hard to turn. Once it starts moving, it becomes easier. The starter turns it easy enough.

56servi · 06-07-2013, 03:06 PM

Final Status:
The oil pan fits fine with the oil pump installed. The engine turns over with the hand crank without problems. I have the head installed & torqued down.
I have to clean up some hardware & then its ready for the body to go back on.
Body is at painters & should be ready in about 2 weeks.
Still lots of parts to clean the smoke film from.

During this lull I can get back to some of my other projects.

redmodelt · 06-07-2013, 10:07 PM

I think you guys missed his post, he is trying to squeeze two front seals in. The car has modern rubber seal and he was trying to install a rope seal also because he didn't know about the modern rubber seal.
The rear seal is made longer then needed. You need to trim it some. I would change that rear rubber seal to the cork type if you have one, they are a real bear to install under the car. The rear seal come in two different widths. Make sure the one you have fits in the slot so it's just held in.

06-02-2013, 11:10 AM	#1
56servi Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Commerce Twp, Mi Posts: 143	Engine locks up with Oil Pan Install I reinstalled my oil pad today & after I had all the bolts tightened I tried to turn the engine over with the hand crank. It wouldn't budge. I had this problem before I took the pan off also. I did have the car running when I got it & before I started to do anything to the engine. After sitting for about 2 months while I worked on the body the engine wouldn't turn with the crank. That is why I removed the head & oil pan. Originally it started to turn easily as soon as I removed the oil pump. This time I tried to turn it as I was removing bolts from the pan. Still frozen after removing left side bolts. I left the center left on to hold up the pan After removing right side bolts & letting pan drop slightly I could turn it over I removed the pan & pushed the pump up by hand & it would turn over. Seems to be a connection between the oil pump & not turning over. The pin on the pump is in the hole in the block & it pushes up flush with the bottom of the block. Any ideas?

06-02-2013, 11:13 AM	#2
SeaSlugs Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Central, IL Posts: 3,968	Re: Engine locks up with Oil Pan Install your spring is intact on the bottom of the oil pump isnt it? __________________ 1929 Model AA - Need long splash aprons!

06-02-2013, 11:18 AM	#3
Great Lakes Greg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,369	Re: Engine locks up with Oil Pan Install I think your distributor is seized.

06-02-2013, 11:18 AM	#4
56servi Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Commerce Twp, Mi Posts: 143	Re: Engine locks up with Oil Pan Install Yes spring is on pump

06-02-2013, 11:19 AM	#5
56servi Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Commerce Twp, Mi Posts: 143	Re: Engine locks up with Oil Pan Install Distributor is removed

06-02-2013, 12:26 PM	#7
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Engine locks up with Oil Pan Install Is this a fresh rebuild? I've seen some fresh rebuilds that are very stiff to turn with the hand crank, but the electric starter cranked the engine over fine. Once the engine gets a few hours use, it should be easy to hand crank. My friend had a fresh rebuild and when I was dialing in the flywheel cover I had a hard time getting the crank to turn with the hand crank. Once the crankshaft was turning it was much easier to keep it turning, but after the crank was left untouched for a few minutes it was again stiff to get moving.

06-02-2013, 12:37 PM	#8
56servi Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Commerce Twp, Mi Posts: 143	Re: Engine locks up with Oil Pan Install Operator Error (I think) I put a new round gasket in the front of the oil pan with the 2 side gaskets. Looking back underneath there is already a round (appears to be rubber of some kind) gasket there so I was trying to use 2 gaskets. I removed the oil pump to try without to see if it fit & couldn't get the pan up all the way in the front. Looked closer with a light & saw the there gasket. I thought the pan was hard to put up because of the pump spring. Will reinstall pump & try again. Why do the pan side gaskets need to go on the block instead of the pan? I have the rubber like gaskets in the front & back of the block & don't see any way to tuck the side gasket tabs behind the gaskets

06-02-2013, 07:17 PM	#9
james hitchcock Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Visalia Ca. Posts: 617	Re: Engine locks up with Oil Pan Install Show a pic of your oil pan. Is the baffle pushed down completely in place ? Maybe the crank is comming against if it's not in place.

06-03-2013, 10:17 PM	#10
james hitchcock Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Visalia Ca. Posts: 617	Re: Engine locks up with Oil Pan Install Did you find out anything on your oil pan problem ?

06-07-2013, 03:06 PM	#12
56servi Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Commerce Twp, Mi Posts: 143	Re: Engine locks up with Oil Pan Install Final Status: The oil pan fits fine with the oil pump installed. The engine turns over with the hand crank without problems. I have the head installed & torqued down. I have to clean up some hardware & then its ready for the body to go back on. Body is at painters & should be ready in about 2 weeks. Still lots of parts to clean the smoke film from. During this lull I can get back to some of my other projects.

06-07-2013, 10:07 PM	#13
redmodelt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland OR Posts: 6,340	Re: Engine locks up with Oil Pan Install I think you guys missed his post, he is trying to squeeze two front seals in. The car has modern rubber seal and he was trying to install a rope seal also because he didn't know about the modern rubber seal. The rear seal is made longer then needed. You need to trim it some. I would change that rear rubber seal to the cork type if you have one, they are a real bear to install under the car. The rear seal come in two different widths. Make sure the one you have fits in the slot so it's just held in.