Should I be worried about any of these noises?

[psimet]

Finally got my engine running after sitting for 25+ years. Yesterday was the second time I got it running. First time only lasted for a couple minutes as the oil I had put into the cylinders before turning it over made too much smoke for us to keep it running.

Here’s a link for a video of yesterday. https://www.dropbox.com/s/7hn8p58nl2...%20PM.mov?dl=0

I obviously need to replace the exhaust manifold gasket but before trying to drive it I was wondering about all the other noises - like that higher pitched rattling noise that sounds almost like a chain drive sound. Something loose or possibly the water pump, etc.

Any other advice or anything all the experiences eyes and ears can notice?

This was after 5-6 minutes of idling. Spark advanced a few notches and throttle about 1 or 2 notches up.

Thanks in advance

[Bob Bidonde]

Model "A's" are noisy vehicles. I did not hear any unusual noise in your video.

[psimet]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

Model "A's" are noisy vehicles. I did not hear any unusual noise in your video.

Thank you! First time it's run so not sure how to verify the oil pump is working, the water pump is working, etc. I am borrowing some wheels/tires later today so you'd way - give it a shot? Just plan on rolling around the neighborhood until I can verify brakes, bearings, etc.

[700rpm]

I didn’t hear anything worrisome. A new manifold gasket might take care of some of the noise, but generally it sounds just like a Model A.

[ETAModel]

It sounded quieter than the 30 Fordor I've been driving.

[COOTER]

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Might be your crankhole cover rattling.

[tinkirk]

Almost sounds like a very bad vacuum leak
Replace exhaust intake gaskets and try it again


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ivan in southeast va.]

Sounds fine to me. Saw the smoke around the manifold so I probably would replace the gasket. Love the patina!

[nkaminar]

Sounds like a Model A. I hear the exhaust leak.

Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds as a unit and check to see that all mating surfaces are flat and in the same plane. I glued some quality bodywork sand paper to a block of granite and worked the manifolds back and forth for about an hour to get them on the same plane. Check the block too. There is not much you can do to the block without taking it out of the car but check it anyway. Manifold nuts should have special washers under them and they should be tight.

[WHN]

Run it!

Give it a chance to limber up. Engine has been sleeping for a long time.

MMO in gas?

Enjoy.

[Ernie Vitucci]

Good afternoon...All good accurate comments above...I think that you should pack the wheel bearing with fresh grease...at minimum new grease...at best wash the bearing and use new grease...check for wear...but you can change them later...at 35 miles an hour or so, they will do fine for now, I suspect. Run the old girl 25 miles or so and change the oil, strain it and see what you have...run 50 miles more and change it again...also give your engine a good flush and radiator a good flush...at 50 miles, flush them again. Put a little oil on the distributor bearings...its the little things that will mean waking her up without harm....after flushing, better to use 50/50 antifreeze in my humble experience...its seems to stop the rust...Ernie in Arizona

[psimet]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Sounds like a Model A. I hear the exhaust leak.

Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds as a unit and check to see that all mating surfaces are flat and in the same plane. I glued some quality bodywork sand paper to a block of granite and worked the manifolds back and forth for about an hour to get them on the same plane. Check the block too. There is not much you can do to the block without taking it out of the car but check it anyway. Manifold nuts should have special washers under them and they should be tight.

Nice. Will do. Due to my misspent youth working in heavy metal fab I just happen to have a granite surface plate in the basement. Knew it would pay off.

[john in illinois]

Good advice Ernie By just doing the bearings you get to look a lot of other parts.

John

[psimet]

Originally Posted by WHN

Run it!

Give it a chance to limber up. Engine has been sleeping for a long time.

MMO in gas?

Enjoy.

I do have some MMO in the gas. I used 5 gallons to help remove rust from the tank. Removed the shut off valve and replaced it with the largest tubing barb I could. Fill the tank, shake it, drain through a filter.

So the gas is now amber color from all the varnish that was in the tank but I am running with some MMO. I also had dropped some MMO and some regular 30W oil before that into each piston a couple months back before seeing if I could turn it over. That seems to still be burning off. We have only run the engine for less than 10 minutes so far.

If it all keeps up then I have some oil blow by but it runs...

[psimet]

Originally Posted by Ernie Vitucci

Good afternoon...All good accurate comments above...I think that you should pack the wheel bearing with fresh grease...at minimum new grease...at best wash the bearing and use new grease...check for wear...but you can change them later...at 35 miles an hour or so, they will do fine for now, I suspect. Run the old girl 25 miles or so and change the oil, strain it and see what you have...run 50 miles more and change it again...also give your engine a good flush and radiator a good flush...at 50 miles, flush them again. Put a little oil on the distributor bearings...its the little things that will mean waking her up without harm....after flushing, better to use 50/50 antifreeze in my humble experience...its seems to stop the rust...Ernie in Arizona

Yeah I picked up some wheels with some decent tires on them from a club member this afternoon. Was thinking I would check the wheel bearings and re-pack them - gotta figure out how to pull the rear as I don't have the tools. I flushed the block and radiator (found an old block crack that I posted on here and was able to fix with JB Weld). I got a bit of rust out of the block but almost nothing out of the radiator. It kind of looks like it may have been a replacement back in the 80's.

I rebuilt the distributor and heavily oiled the bushings and the oiler. Lubed the cam. I'm hoping everything is good enough I can get 25 miles out of it. I like your thinking on the oil changes. I had dropped the pan and the oil looked great but there was a little sludge at the bottom.

Thank YOU!

[psimet]

Originally Posted by john in illinois

Good advice Ernie By just doing the bearings you get to look a lot of other parts.

John

John in Illinois - hello from Illinois as well! If you ever find yourself round Elgin way and want to check out a run of the mill survivor '28 tudor then let me know!

[burner31]

Looks good, sounds good...drive it
Sounds better then mine did after sleeping for 53 years...and I drive mine everyday now, in fact we're taking it out to dinner right now.

[1crosscut]

Pull the radiator cap off and stick a dial meat thermometer in it to keep an eye on the temperature. Cheap, easy and will give you a good sense of what is going on temperature wise with your engine.
Check temperature often while you are first running and then driving the car until you are comfortable with how things are going.

[mhsprecher]

Sounds pretty darned good to me. Congratulations!

[Oldbluoval]

I’d worry about because then I don’t have to look for something else to worry about!
Sounds pretty good to me. Agreed let it
Limber up and see what gets worse or better .