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12-27-2020, 02:56 PM | #21 | |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
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Yes, are you sure the lifter is on the heal of the cam lobe? It may not be what is causing your problem right now but when the car gets out on the road and the engine heats up you can burn a valve. |
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12-27-2020, 03:18 PM | #22 |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
I know that Ed already mentioned it, but based on the symptoms you described I would double-check the points gap.
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12-27-2020, 03:28 PM | #23 |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
With the timing pin in its dimple, #1 is at TDC on compression stroke and #4 is at TDC on the exhaust stroke. At that position, both valves in #4 are just off their seats so it is correct that he can't get a feeler gauge in those valves.
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12-27-2020, 03:46 PM | #24 |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
https://imgur.com/a/JiP8Ghu pictures of spark plugs and car
Last edited by Dewshan; 12-27-2020 at 03:47 PM. Reason: Link |
12-27-2020, 03:53 PM | #25 |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
maybe it is #2 that isn't firing?? Have you checked to exhaust manifold to see which cylinder is cold?
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12-27-2020, 05:43 PM | #26 |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
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I think im going to get a new distributor with electronic ignition. I have electronic on my sportcoupe and has worked very well over the years. Ijust cant understand why #4 spark plug is so clean. Not sure what to make of that really. |
12-27-2020, 05:45 PM | #27 |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
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12-27-2020, 06:35 PM | #28 |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
Have you had an opportunity to try a known good distributor? And coil? When you do the test make sure you also borrow the high tension wire that runs from the coil to the distributor. There was another thread on the site where a miss was traced to a high tension wire that was not inserted completely.
I had the electronic distributor and didn't like it. The distributor I have now is the original one except it has the modern points and condenser. I think it performs better than the electronic one. Others have good results with the electronic distributor.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
12-27-2020, 06:36 PM | #29 |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
Borrow the distributor from your sports coupe.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
12-27-2020, 07:26 PM | #30 |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
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12-27-2020, 07:33 PM | #31 |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
My 1931 Coupe was doing this last summer. I cleaned the screen filter in the carb , changed the points and condenser, and then changed the coil . Runs great now. My 31 is an early model with screen in the carb which was half clogged.
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12-27-2020, 11:45 PM | #32 |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
If #4 isn't providing any signs of power, after 12 years could have critters plugged intake opening into #4?
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12-28-2020, 06:25 PM | #33 |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
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12-28-2020, 06:45 PM | #34 | |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
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12-29-2020, 06:53 PM | #35 |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
You might take the bottom half of the carburetor off and clean it out. Blow out all the jets. Who knows what might have crawled in there after all the years.
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12-29-2020, 07:37 PM | #36 |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
Gas is only few months old but could have dissolved some gunk left in the tank. Carb was professionally rebuilt.
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12-30-2020, 12:24 PM | #37 |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
OK, back to the basics. 1-2-3 cylinders are firing as they should. The valves for # 4 are moving and there is compression. There is spark at #4. If 1-3 are firing as they should to me that eliminates the carb, the coil, the points. after all why would it work for those cylinders and not for # 4. A test for leak at the intake at #4 shows no result. That leaves a few items; the head gasket at # 4 would be one thing, but it has compression, so that eliminates that, a clogged intake runner to # 4 as mentioned is possible, critters build nests in strange places. The odd part is that there is no wetness from fuel shown on the #4 spark plug, why, the clogged intake runner is suspect? A thought to me is compression is a result of the piston moving up and down in the cylinder with the valves opening and closing at the proper time as defined by the action of the camshaft, that action creates a vacuum that draws in the fuel, yet there is no fuel entering the cylinder the plug is bone dry. Could the cam grind on # 4 be wrong, so as the crank is turning the cycle is wrong and not creating a vacuum? If it was me before I tore anything apart I would make an adapter where I could use a vacuum gauge to see if Vacuum is created at the #4 spark plug hole while the engine is turning over. This sure is one I would like to know the answer to.
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12-30-2020, 12:47 PM | #38 |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
everyone's having twopennyworth here so here's mine...what happens if you disconnect each plug lead in turn? have you tried squirting neat fresh fuel via the s/plug holes into the cylinders and quickly re-inserting and connecting the spark plug prior to firing up. If comp good .... I'm not fully convinced yet that this is a problem specific to one particluar cylinder... 90% of carb faults are electric!
Last edited by johnbuckley; 12-30-2020 at 12:54 PM. |
12-30-2020, 09:46 PM | #39 |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
Try the old wax crayola crayon on the exhaust manifold to see if #4 is putting out hot gases. It should melt if Cylinder is firing.
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12-31-2020, 07:47 PM | #40 | |
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Re: Troubleshooting advice
Quote:
Ken
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