The Ford Barn

Timo · 06-22-2015, 02:47 PM

A crack has developed in my 1936 Woodie's cylinder head, where the water pump attaches to the cylinder head, (see attached photos).

It's leaking radiator fluid whenever I drive and I am praying I won't have to replace the whole cylinder head.

What to do? Can I weld it back together? Is there some miracle epoxy/glue out there? Do I just keep the radiator fluid topped off and live with it?

I am a bit of a rookie in repair, but handy with a tool and eager to fix it.

Many thanks for any advice...

Dave/Green Bay · 06-22-2015, 02:59 PM

Tim:
I might have a 35-36 head in the shed if you choose to change it. Let me know and I will take a look.
Dave/GreenBay

Snouts out · 06-22-2015, 03:03 PM

Try some JB weld on it.

Mart · 06-22-2015, 03:08 PM

You might be able to limp it for a few extra miles by replacing the bolt with a nut and bolt. Maybe a 5/16" bolt will go through.

A skilled welder could probably repair that, but the head would have to come off to enable pre heat and proper weld prep. I would imagine it would be brazed rather than welded.

It would probably be easier to find a suitable replacement head. Cast iron heads are often discarded as virtually worthless.

Mart.

oldford2 · 06-22-2015, 03:44 PM

First thing to try as others suggested. Drill it out for a bolt and nut, clean it good and fill with JB weld. JB weld is great stuff.
John

JM 35 Sedan · 06-22-2015, 03:47 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I also believe that could be welded/brazed as Mart said. What is the prefix number in front of part number on top surface of that head, 40, 48, or 68? I also have a few of those early 21 stud cast iron heads laying around that I probably never will have a use for.

54vicky · 06-22-2015, 03:59 PM

as suggested use a nut and bolt but use a washer on either side to spread the clamping force.

KiWinUS · 06-22-2015, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 54vicky

as suggested use a nut and bolt but use a washer on either side to spread the clamping force.

Do as suggested , BUT take off water pump clean both mating surfaces & install new gasket using 3M yellow weather strip cement on both surfaces & gasket & you should be good to go !

flatheadmurre · 06-22-2015, 04:28 PM

I would be tempted to braze it in place....not to much material to heat up.
Then just new gasket and back on the road...

Kurt in NJ · 06-22-2015, 10:25 PM

Don't even have to drill it, just use a longer bolt, one that sticks through enough to put a washer and nut on

wga · 06-22-2015, 11:03 PM

Timo - I'd weld it, not braze it. Have stick welded these with high nickel content rod.
Ronnie on this site, would TIG or GTAW weld process on this. Do some grinding, drill
a hole and you are down the road, without an anxiety attack waiting to happen, wondering
about the epoxy you put on. You have a high dollar ride, keep it on the road.
Come on out to Woodies on the Wharf this Saturday in Santa Cruz, Ca. and hang with hundreds of your woodie friends.

JonC · 06-23-2015, 06:46 AM

These heads are available for not much I believe I have a pair gathering dust.

Timo · 06-23-2015, 09:46 AM

Thanks to all for some thoughtful and helpful tips. I've got enough support from you all to tackle it myself. Love these forums!

Dave/Green Bay · 06-23-2015, 10:10 PM

Tim:
Looked in the shed and I found a 35-36 cast iron head. Pay the shipping and it is yours.
Dave/GreenBay

06-22-2015, 02:59 PM	#2
Dave/Green Bay Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Green Bay Posts: 391	Re: 1936 Crack in cylinder head- Help! Tim: I might have a 35-36 head in the shed if you choose to change it. Let me know and I will take a look. Dave/GreenBay

06-22-2015, 03:03 PM	#3
Snouts out Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Covedale,oh Posts: 226	Re: 1936 Crack in cylinder head- Help! Try some JB weld on it.

06-22-2015, 03:08 PM	#4
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,754	Re: 1936 Crack in cylinder head- Help! You might be able to limp it for a few extra miles by replacing the bolt with a nut and bolt. Maybe a 5/16" bolt will go through. A skilled welder could probably repair that, but the head would have to come off to enable pre heat and proper weld prep. I would imagine it would be brazed rather than welded. It would probably be easier to find a suitable replacement head. Cast iron heads are often discarded as virtually worthless. Mart. Last edited by Mart; 06-22-2015 at 03:50 PM.

06-22-2015, 03:44 PM	#5
oldford2 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: pittsfield, MA Posts: 2,086	Re: 1936 Crack in cylinder head- Help! First thing to try as others suggested. Drill it out for a bolt and nut, clean it good and fill with JB weld. JB weld is great stuff. John

06-22-2015, 03:47 PM	#6
JM 35 Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland Posts: 10,858	Re: 1936 Crack in cylinder head- Help! Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I also believe that could be welded/brazed as Mart said. What is the prefix number in front of part number on top surface of that head, 40, 48, or 68? I also have a few of those early 21 stud cast iron heads laying around that I probably never will have a use for. __________________ *John* *"Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein* Last edited by JM 35 Sedan; 06-22-2015 at 08:30 PM. Reason: "suffix" should have been "prefix"

06-22-2015, 03:59 PM	#7
54vicky Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Oakville Ontario Posts: 586	Re: 1936 Crack in cylinder head- Help! as suggested use a nut and bolt but use a washer on either side to spread the clamping force.

06-22-2015, 04:28 PM	#9
flatheadmurre Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Sweden Posts: 3,045	Re: 1936 Crack in cylinder head- Help! I would be tempted to braze it in place....not to much material to heat up. Then just new gasket and back on the road...

06-22-2015, 10:25 PM	#10
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,159	Re: 1936 Crack in cylinder head- Help! Don't even have to drill it, just use a longer bolt, one that sticks through enough to put a washer and nut on

06-22-2015, 11:03 PM	#11
wga Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Yorba Linda, CA Posts: 900	Re: 1936 Crack in cylinder head- Help! Timo - I'd weld it, not braze it. Have stick welded these with high nickel content rod. Ronnie on this site, would TIG or GTAW weld process on this. Do some grinding, drill a hole and you are down the road, without an anxiety attack waiting to happen, wondering about the epoxy you put on. You have a high dollar ride, keep it on the road. Come on out to Woodies on the Wharf this Saturday in Santa Cruz, Ca. and hang with hundreds of your woodie friends. __________________ Henry Ford designed the flathead without the aid of a computer.

06-23-2015, 06:46 AM	#12
JonC Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Central NY Posts: 629	Re: 1936 Crack in cylinder head- Help! These heads are available for not much I believe I have a pair gathering dust.

06-23-2015, 09:46 AM	#13
Timo Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Boston Posts: 13	Re: 1936 Crack in cylinder head- Help! Thanks to all for some thoughtful and helpful tips. I've got enough support from you all to tackle it myself. Love these forums!

06-23-2015, 10:10 PM	#14
Dave/Green Bay Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Green Bay Posts: 391	Re: 1936 Crack in cylinder head- Help! Tim: Looked in the shed and I found a 35-36 cast iron head. Pay the shipping and it is yours. Dave/GreenBay