59A-B Vacuum at dipstick tube

[deuce_roadster]

Maybe all your (intake especially) valve guides are worn and need to be replaced. If so, I would switch all 16 to 1 piece guides and new valves.

[piewagn]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

Maybe all your (intake especially) valve guides are worn and need to be replaced. If so, I would switch all 16 to 1 piece guides and new valves.

This is beginning to be my thought process… I’m astonished that those guides wore out that quickly….

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by piewagn

Pulled the intake…good seal all around. While grasping the valves and shaking side to side by hand on the intake valves that were at the bottom of the cam lobes and I get noticeable lateral movement and you can see the stem move while peering down the intake port. Seems excessive to me. Is there a spec for lateral movement or play? I’ve also noticed it has the 2 piece guides with the tulip valves. While prying down on the guides through the port, they move quite easily. Is this normal? It does have the adjustable lifters. How high are the guides supposed to sit above the floor of the port? I’ve go what looks like 1/8-3/16” above. Is THIS normal?
I want to thank everyone for their input up to this point, more would be greatly appreciated! Thanks fellas!

Mystery solved.

The movement your seeing is excessive a few thousands at most is what the clearance should be which you would never be able to detect from the valley area. The tops of the guides you can see in the port is typical for the stock guide the guides were never designed to be what we Hot Rodders would like to see that being nothing blocking the port.

So the solution to your problem will going to the latter 8BA style valve train
You can then modify the tops of the guides to flow nicely in the ports prior to finishing the installation.
Ronnieroadster

[piewagn]

Originally Posted by Ronnieroadster

Mystery solved.

The movement your seeing is excessive a few thousands at most is what the clearance should be which you would never be able to detect from the valley area. The tops of the guides you can see in the port is typical for the stock guide the guides were never designed to be what we Hot Rodders would like to see that being nothing blocking the port.

So the solution to your problem will going to the latter 8BA style valve train
You can then modify the tops of the guides to flow nicely in the ports prior to finishing the installation.
Ronnieroadster

Yeah, thanks for the input Ronnie! I had a sneaky suspicion the guides were the culprit being how loud the valves started rattling when that raw unmetered fuel got dumped down the manifold. Plus driving 20+ miles, some at highway speeds to get home. I guess with those guides being cast and washing away any lubrication, it just wore them excessively. Once I pulled the manifold and didn’t see anything that was leaking, it kinda had me leaning that way. I’ve already started pricing things out. I figure while it’s down, I may as well install a new clutch too. Thanks everyone for their input, greatly appreciated!!

[Bored&Stroked]

Also, the earlier split guides tend to have more issues with play/movement - due to their basic design (being split). Also the valve stems are smaller (5/16), so there is less surface area as well. As Ronnie noted, I always switch over to the later 1-piece guides and use the seals/sealer around the intakes. You vacuum was obviously coming through the valve guides.

When you have the top-end redone, make sure you find a shop that has the correct guide mandrels for a flathead and that they are very familiar with these engines. At inexperienced machine shops, it is the flathead valve train area that tends to get screwed up the most!

I've seen a few ruined engines done by folks doing things like decking the block to "even up the valve heights" - as they don't know that the valve angles and heights to the deck are different side to side.

[piewagn]

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Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Also, the earlier split guides tend to have more issues with play/movement - due to their basic design (being split). Also the valve stems are smaller (5/16), so there is less surface area as well. As Ronnie noted, I always switch over to the later 1-piece guides and use the seals/sealer around the intakes. You vacuum was obviously coming through the valve guides.

When you have the top-end redone, make sure you find a shop that has the correct guide mandrels for a flathead and that they are very familiar with these engines. At inexperienced machine shops, it is the flathead valve train area that tends to get screwed up the most!

I've seen a few ruined engines done by folks doing things like decking the block to "even up the valve heights" - as they don't know that the valve angles and heights to the deck are different side to side.

My issue now is finding a machine shop… so far 3 that I’ve contacted acted like the Flathead was a plague… I’ve got one guy I just remembered that I’m gonna call…hopefully he can hook me up, or I’ll be looking for the equipment myself to set up the valves/guides/seats, I am a machinist after all… thanks again everyone!!

[cas3]

You could have at least a general location in your avatar so folks here could help in your search.

[piewagn]

Originally Posted by cas3

You could have at least a general location in your avatar so folks here could help in your search.

You are correct Sir! I’m in Lansdale….Pa

[piewagn]

Engine is out and I’ll continue with disassembly. Some parts have started to arrive, but I fear I may be waiting on my valve kit. I ordered it from Reds on Friday and it says the sale is still “pending” and my account hasn’t been charged yet. That usually means backorder, although it doesn’t say that in the listing…it usually does from what I remember. I’m calling them Monday to see what’s up. Wish me luck fellas. Driving this car is my therapy and it absolutely helps with my mental state. I’d really love to have this thing back on the road for my favorite season…fall! Hope everyone is enjoying their weekend….

[Bored&Stroked]

Other places to check are two of our favorite members: Michael at ThirdGen Auto and Mac VanPelt at VanPelt sales.

They can supply you with everything you need. Lots of the guys on here buy from both of these members.

[piewagn]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Other places to check are two of our favorite members: Michael at ThirdGen Auto and Mac VanPelt at VanPelt sales.

They can supply you with everything you need. Lots of the guys on here buy from both of these members.

I'll have to cancel my order from Red's first. Vanpelt has the kit and it's even less expensive. I'll figure my path forward once I call Red's on Monday.... I was hoping to start reassembly by the end of next week, but it looks like that's wishful thinking....

[RKS.PA]

You might call Don Deitrick at Stauffers Automotive Machine Shop in Phoenixville, PA Phone is 610.935.1513 He's not the far from you and is a first class machinist....as well as a first class guy. He knows Ford flatheads and my experience with him could not have been better.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by piewagn

I'll have to cancel my order from Red's first. Vanpelt has the kit and it's even less expensive. I'll figure my path forward once I call Red's on Monday.... I was hoping to start reassembly by the end of next week, but it looks like that's wishful thinking....

How do you plan to redo the valve seats? You can't just throw new valves in the block . . .

[piewagn]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

How do you plan to redo the valve seats? You can't just throw new valves in the block . . .

I'll probably have to knurl the guides and I'll make a mandrel at work.

I've got a line on and old school seat tool and I'll cut them myself. I am a machinist so I'm fairly sure I can figure this out. I really do appreciate everyone's input and concern and I'll keep everyone updated on progress. I'll probably be taking video of the process and posting it to my YouTube channel.


The following video has a follow up video where he's actually knurling the guides. As long as I can keep the guides secure in the block, I'll be able to true the seats with the mandrel I'm making. The picture is in my head.



https://youtu.be/qZBXFMqHs-c

[piewagn]

Originally Posted by RKS.PA

You might call Don Deitrick at Stauffers Automotive Machine Shop in Phoenixville, PA Phone is 610.935.1513 He's not the far from you and is a first class machinist....as well as a first class guy. He knows Ford flatheads and my experience with him could not have been better.

If I really start running into issues, I will definitely give this guy a call. Thanks for the contact info....

[piewagn]

Well, progress fellas! Don't know how taboo it is to post links to other forum threads. I don't have an image hosting account, nor do I wish to have one. But, I've posted pics in my thread at the HAMB if anyone is interested.

All seats ground to center valve with guides and seats. Everything installed and lash adjusted. I’ve also made a pointer for my TDC timing mark. Now to clean surfaces and get the heads bolted on so I can get this thing back in! I’m trying to understand why the valve train was all clapped out when the rest of the engine looks so fresh… anyway, back at it tomorrow after some chores and hopefully ready to go back in by the end of the day. Hope everyone is having a great weekend!


Thread: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...#post-14616218

[Ronnieroadster]

Very nice work its great being able to do the job yourself that adds so much more to the satisfaction and knowing its being done right.
Ronnieroadster

[piewagn]

Originally Posted by Ronnieroadster

Very nice work its great being able to do the job yourself that adds so much more to the satisfaction and knowing its being done right.
Ronnieroadster

Thanks Ronnie! Yes...this is a rewarding one....and seeing all those shiny new valves lined up is nice. It's a very nice complete kit and I'm very pleased with the results!

[Bored&Stroked]

Great job jumping in and getting after it! It looks like you'll be in good shape and I'll bet your top-end will be in much better shape than before. Let us know how things work out.

[piewagn]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Great job jumping in and getting after it! It looks like you'll be in good shape and I'll bet your top-end will be in much better shape than before. Let us know how things work out.

Thanks B&S! Absolutely will keep everyone posted! I’ve been recording video for my YouTube channel and I’ll be posting my initial startup and road test. Thanks for your and everyone else’s input! Great community here and it took me a looong time for my first post, but I figured if there was any info to be had, it was here!