Generator Bearing?

[moonshine runner]

Good morning Barners,

Anyone ever had a bearing go bad in a generator? While out driving yesterday, the 56 developed a heck of a loud squeal. The noise speeds up when the engine accelerates and back down.

I thought it might possibly be a bearing gone bad in the water pump so I removed the belt and the fan turns very free by hand and no noise but when turning the pulley on the generator, I can hear what sounds like a slight squeak.

Would a bad generator bearing be so loud when gone bad that people on the side of the road can hear it as you drive by?

Thanks!

Kevin

[Ole Don]

This used to be a common problem. These bearings at one time needed to be removed, cleaned and repacked. Now we have sealed bearings that usually outlast the old style ten to one. If you don't feel up to doing it yourself, see if you can find an independent re-builder in your area.

[moonshine runner]

Originally Posted by Ole Don

This used to be a common problem. These bearings at one time needed to be removed, cleaned and repacked. Now we have sealed bearings that usually outlast the old style ten to one. If you don't feel up to doing it yourself, see if you can find an independent re-builder in your area.

Thanks Don,

Yeah we have a place close in Joplin, MO that rebuilds things like this all the time.

Kevin

[moonshine runner]

Don,

Did you see my follow up on my post about the hesitation issue I was having?

Kevin

[darrell]

did you run the engine with the belt of to be sure.

[moonshine runner]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by darrell

did you run the engine with the belt of to be sure.

No, I just checked the generator by hand with belt off.

Kevin

[moonshine runner]

Ok I think I have found the source of the noise with my stethoscope. The noise is coming from the distributor. Not sure why, this distributor was supposed to be rebuilt with a new bushing.

Kevin

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by moonshine runner

Ok I think I have found the source of the noise with my stethoscope. The noise is coming from the distributor. Not sure why, this distributor was supposed to be rebuilt with a new bushing.

Kevin

Have you been oiling the upper end of the dist shaft? It may look different than the one below depending on which dist you have, but it should have an oiling tube at the top with a spring loaded cap (circled in red). A fresh shot of oil might help it out.
.

[moonshine runner]

Howdy dmsfrr,

Well, no I hadn't yet because I just recently got this car home in October and haven't driven it much but here's what I did do just about 30 minutes ago.

I went out and took the cap off and shot WD-40 down around the shaft and points rubbing block and no more noise!

So I will definitely shoot some oil in that spot you show. Thanks for the photo.

Kevin

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by moonshine runner

..... this distributor was supposed to be rebuilt with a new bushing.

Mine was recently rebuilt also since it was full of metal filings when I got it.
Because of the way the driven gear on the dist shaft meshes with the camshaft, the dist drive shaft is constantly being pulled 'down'. This can create a lot of wear on the upper dist bushing. When it wears down too far it starts grinding the spinning internal dist parts into the inside bottom of the dist housing. Keeping it properly lubed has got to help.

Originally Posted by moonshine runner

....... here's what I did do just about 30 minutes ago.
I went out and took the cap off and shot WD-40 down around the shaft and points rubbing block and no more noise!

The WD-40 let you know where your squeaky problem is but it will evaporate out real quick, and it will have washed off the tiny bit of plastic safe grease that should be on the points rubbing block & dist lobes, so put a little dab of it back on when you're putting real oil on the shaft bushing.
.

[Jimz Bird]

Also, never use a gasket between the distributor and the block. They are designed to fit metal to metal.
Using a gasket can cause the breaker plate to be pulled down by the camshaft just far enough to chew up the breaker plate. The result would be metal filings in your distributor.
The oil that was mentioned is important along with some distributor cam lube on the points rubbing block and distributor cam. Just don't overdo it. It's just like Brylcreem for slicking back your DA. "Just a dab will do ya."
When installing new points it is good to check your dwell after about 100 miles or so also. The rubbing block has square corners which will round out fairly quickly which changes when the points open and close.
When setting the dwell set it at the lower limit within spec to allow for rubbing block wear. That would be towards the upper limit of gap if you are using a feeler gauge. Remember that dwell and gap are inversely proportional.
Of course, check the timing after fiddling with the dwell.

[Hoosier Hurricane]

On the distributor base is an oil cup. This is what oils the upper bushing, not the felt under the rotor. Periodic oiling of this cup will keep the bushing lubricated. John

[moonshine runner]

dmsfrr, Jimz bird, and Hoosier Hurricane (John), Thanks!!

I will definitely be giving the dist a shot of oil and lubing the points rubbing block with a little dab!

I really appreciate your advice!

Kevin

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Jimz Bird

Also, never use a gasket between the distributor and the block. They are designed to fit metal to metal.
Using a gasket can cause the breaker plate to be pulled down by the camshaft just far enough to chew up the breaker plate.
.....

Jimz Bird,
Thanks, I had a senior moment and forgot to mention that.
.

[56 Mercer]

Hey Moonshine,

Would you mind to give the name of the rebuild shop in Joplin, I would like to have that on hand, for a just in case?

[moonshine runner]

Howdy neighbor (56 Mercer) ! Don't mind at all. American Battery on 2nd and Joplin. Talk to Jason. 417-623-4180. Actual address is 215 south Joplin and they do great work.

Kevin

[Daves55Sedan]

The Generator rear bushng originally was made of graphite and brass dust (pressed into the shape of a piece of pipe. If that bushing cracks up, you can get a gen/alt rebuilder to replace it with a new bushing made of solid brass. Sometimes they need to order brass stock and machine it for your armature shaft. Some of them have a bunch sitting on the shelf.
I swiped bearing grease in the bushing after it was pressed into the gen backplate. Then squeeze some motor oil (using a squeese bottle with telescoping plastic tubing) into the bearing lube cup on the outside of the backplate. There is a small weephole about a 1/4 inch above the portion of the backplate where the bearing is. When oil begins to drip out of that weephole, stop squeezing oil into the bearing lube cup.
One the Y-block engines, the bearing lube cup is a spring loaded round metal ball inside the backplate. It is necessary to push down on the ball while filling the lube cup.
The generator has a sealed roller bearing at the front. It cannot be lubricated.
Use the same squeeze bottle to lube the distributor bushing lube cup. Here, it has a little spring-loaded metal door you can open with your finger, then stick the tube of your squeeze bottle in.
Just use a little bit of bearing grease on your distributor cam. In cold weather, grease will build up at the rubbing block on the points and just force the grease off the cam if you use too much grease. In extreme cold conditions, too much grease on the cam will initially cause your point gap to be increased until the engine warms up enough to allow the grease to eventually be forced away from the cam.

[moonshine runner]

Dave,

Thanks my friend! I just got the car the 3rd week of October and haven't driven it much and I didn't realize the dist has an oil cup on it but I do now!! I certainly appreciate all the help here on the barn!

BTW, I went out and oiled it with 30wt oil tonight.

Kevin

[56 Mercer]

Thanks for the info Moonshine.