05-24-2015, 03:49 PM | #1 |
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Head torque
Got scared about torqueing the head - warping, leaking, busting water outlet etc. Les Andrews book does not address the number 8 stud. Am I okay in torqueing to 20" lbs before installation in the car, removing the #8 nut to install the ignition cable clamp after engine installation and then finish the torqueing in 10 # increments?
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05-24-2015, 04:37 PM | #2 |
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Re: Head torque
Unless your going for fine points judging I think a lot of people
leave the clamp off. That way if you have to change the distributor out on the road you don't have to worry about draining the coolant and torquing the head.. Bob |
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05-24-2015, 04:39 PM | #3 |
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Re: Head torque
Number 8 stud should be longer so I put my cable holder on top of the nut so if I want to remover the distributor I don't have to disturb the the torque of that stud.
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05-24-2015, 06:25 PM | #4 |
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Re: Head torque
Yes, the way you state the question should work fine.
Just don't use a paper gasket for the water outlet. |
05-24-2015, 07:34 PM | #5 |
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Re: Head torque
Tom.. Why no paper gasket? What did Henry use?
Larry Jenkins |
05-24-2015, 08:08 PM | #6 | |
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Re: Head torque
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Quote:
Your options are a thick copper sandwich style gasket (original style) or no gasket, but a narrow bead of RTV instead. (That's what's on my S/W Town Sedan right now). Whatever way you go, you want the mating surfaces to be flat and true.
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05-24-2015, 10:30 PM | #7 |
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Re: Head torque
Yes, what Jim said.
Years ago my friend broke two outlets and I broke one before we learned it was the paper gaskets getting wet and squeezing out at the ears. Since using copper or no gaskets, I haven't broken any more outlets. BTW, I've never looked at the blueprints for the coolant fittings, but every original outlet and inlet gasket I've seen has been brass. |
05-24-2015, 10:58 PM | #8 |
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Re: Head torque
Henry did not use a torque wrench.
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