Installing distributor in an 8BA?

[36tudordeluxe]

Can the distributor be installed at any point on the compression stroke or does it have to be installed at ATC?

[oldford2]

Well, here is how Walt Dupont taught me to do it. Take out the plugs so the engine will turn easier with a bar. Then have the Missus hold her thumb tight on the # 1 hole. Then manually turn the engine till it blows her thumb off the hole. Now you are on the compression stroke for #1. Then slowly turn up to where the pointer is on the crank pulley dot/mark. Now you are pretty much at TDC. Then insert the distributor so the rotor is pointed at the # 1 hole in the cap. Then use your timing light for whatever advance you want. works for me
John

[Seth Swoboda]

John has it. Very good explanation. Well done.

[36tudordeluxe]

Thanks John, the assembly manual I have states "drop it in with the number 1 cylinder on the compression stroke" and makes no mention of number 1 being at TDC. Am wondering if my mark on the crank pulley is off a few degrees and that's why I'm running rough off idle; it's like I'm not getting any advance, am using electronic distributor.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

In reality the rotor needs to be slightly before the contact at tdc....

[36tudordeluxe]

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Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Install at TDC of compression stroke, otherwise you will be 180 degrees off. Here's the procedure.
Remove distributor cap (with spark plug wires still in it) and crank engine over until timing mark on crank pulley lines up with pointer AND the rotor is also pointing to where number one plug wire on the cap would be if the dist. cap was not removed.

This is how I have been installing the distributor, idles okay but runs very rough when I try to drive the car. If the rotor isn't exactly on the number 1 plug wire in the cap, say a tooth or 2 off would that explain my problem?

[Ol' Ron]

You didn't say what kind of dist it was. However, the dot is 2-4 degs adv. Once the engine is running the dst should be set on the dot for #1 cyl. now rev the engine, the mechanical advance should move up the pulley about an inch, or at least 20 degs. Watch out for ping, when accelerating in hi gear.

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by 36tudordeluxe

This is how I have been installing the distributor, idles okay but runs very rough when I try to drive the car. If the rotor isn't exactly on the number 1 plug wire in the cap, say a tooth or 2 off would that explain my problem?

Have you checked it with a timing light? This is a must.

[oldford2]

Originally Posted by 36tudordeluxe

This is how I have been installing the distributor, idles okay but runs very rough when I try to drive the car. If the rotor isn't exactly on the number 1 plug wire in the cap, say a tooth or 2 off would that explain my problem?

"a tooth or too off" No good

[36tudordeluxe]

It's a Mallory electronic and am going to switch over to the modified Chevy distributor that Ol'Ron machined for me but in the mean time would like to get this Mallory working so I can make a comparison. Crank pulley I have isn't degreed so timing light won't work. When I initially installed distributor on test stand I set the rotor pointing at number 1 cylinder (out of ignorance) rather than number 1 contact in rotor but the engine ran great through entire RPM range. This is something I just recently remembered.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

You are making it too hard .
Install the distributor , start the engine ( may need to turn a little one way or the other) and adjust to mark on pulley with timing light .
Then forget you ever seen the the distributor.
If the engine is now running rough it isnt the timing !!! Your distributor is fine as is and seems to have the correct advance curve in it.
Now lets make the engine idle down , adjust the carbs as needed etc.
If dual carbs they must be balanced with flow meter and make sure power valves are good or removed etc depending on carbs .....
At this point in the game i think you are done with ignition........

[FlatheadTed]

In reality the rotor needs to be half way across the contact at tdc...
Since at TDC it has already fired ,at approx.. 4Deg .

[40cpe]

If it still runs rough off-idle after installing correctly and timing, recheck that your plug wires are in the correct order.

[36tudordeluxe]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

If your distributor has a vacuum line, doesn't that have to be plugged when setting the timing?

The distributor has no vacuum line.

[Ol' Ron]

Get Help.

[oldford2]

Well, if you have no vacuum line from the carb (venturi) and you have an 8BA carb, you must have an open port on the carb????? Or if it is blocked no vacuum to the distributor. Now I may be out in left field here because you have an electronic ignition and I know nothing about them. Your first post did not mention that. John

[36tudordeluxe]

Am on the wrong site at this point, initially I just wanted to know procedure for installing distributor in relation to compression stroke and TDC. With mechanical advance and 4 barrel carb. I should move over to the HAMB. Thanks everyone for the help.

[40cpe]

I see that you have been back and forth with this on the HAMB for over a month. I know you must be frustrated. I hope you find it soon and let us know what solved the problem.

[flatjack9]

I won't hold my breath.

[36tudordeluxe]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Don't leave just yet. Your initial question has been answered. If the engine still doesn't "fire" you may be a tooth or 2 off. In that case you will have to reinstall the distributor on TDC of the compression stroke just to make sure. I have a Mallory electronic distributor with mechanical advance and a Holley 390 4 barrel and it works real good. Do you have any open vacuum ports on your carb that should be plugged? If possible, post photos of what components you have and how they are currently configured. I will be glad to send you close up photos of my set up if you think it will help. Another question: Is your 4bbl. carb known to be in good working condition?

The Edelbrock is brand new and worked great while the engine was on test stand. Burned out module in distributor while using incorrect coil on engine stand, sent distrib. to Bubba's replaced module and is supplying correct coil. Before sending parts to Bubba, took engine off stand and put it in the car and that's when things went south. Am waiting for parts to come back from Bubba. The engine always fired immediately, even when installed in the car with wrong coil & resistor, just ran real rough as you increased RPM. Will let you know what happens with new correct coil from Bubba"s. When I had disturb. installed incorrectly with rotor pointing at number 1 cylinder rather than number 1 contact on distributor it ran great on test stand. May try going back to that setting if all else fails. Appreciate every ones's help.