battery cut out switch

[gridleak]

Any suggestions!
I am in the process of installing a cut out switch on the seat riser between ground and battery in my 29 coupe. I can't find a neat way to route the cable from the battery to switch with out drilling a bunch of holes or using a lot of cable.

[Jerry in Shasta]

I used what is called a "ratching relay", it looks like a stater solenoid. However each time power is applied it ratches to the next state,IE, to off then on, then off and so forth.

I put the switch and keep the battery cables under the floor boards. I installed the switch in the battery to frame cable.

The control switch is a momentary push button, concealed in a easy to reach location.

JB

[Lona]

I went through the same problem trying to decide where to mount the disconnect switch bought from Snyders. Wanted to mount it in the seat riser of my '31 roadster but found a lot of cutting of the pan and riser and a lot of cable was required to put it there, even though it seemed like the best hiding place for it. I ended up mounting it through the floor board between the shift lever and the seat where there is plenty of space for it and the cables from the battery ground terminal to the switch and from the switch to the frame ground. I drilled a hole through the floor large enough to accommodate the body of the switch, then installed a regular 4x4 electrical box cover plate over the hole with a smaller hold drilled it the plate the size of the switch stem. The floor mat easily hides the cover plate. The only thing showing projecting through the floor when finished is the handle of the switch. While not hidden, the handle is small but visible enough to provide a reminder to kill the battery circuit when garaging the car for the night........Glen

[clocey]

I installed one attached to my starter bolts. It is out of the way under the steering column under the hood. I misted it with a dark brown paint and it blends in well

[1931 flamingo]

clocey: The vendors have a brkt to mount it there. But for convenience many of us mount it inside so we don't have to open the hood each time we want to "kill" it. FWIW
Paul in CT There is no right or wrong location.

[mshmodela]

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Think of battery disconnect switch myself... However, I have a late 31' so lifting the hood is not an issue... Figuring somewhere on the driver's side away from the passenger fuel side of the engine.

[Mike V. Florida]

Mikes sells a kit with a switch bracket that fits on the starter bottom bolt. HERE

[BillLee/Chandler, TX]

I mounted mine in my Tudor under the front edge of the driver's seat, behind the steel cross member and through the front edge of the rear wooden floorboard. I describe it at http://www.cedarcreekas.org/TechTopics/CutOffSwitch.pdf

If the switch is to be used as it should be, it needs to be in a convenient spot to operate. Under the hood is too much "out of sight, out of mind" for me. When it is needed in an emergency, you want it to be "right there" and not buried under the hood.

And the switch should be on the ground line between the frame and the ground post of the battery in order to protect the entire system.

[mshmodela]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Mikes sells a kit with a switch bracket that fits on the starter bottom bolt. HERE

Mike V. FLA,

Thanks looks like the winning ticket for my needs...

[eagle]

I haven't done it yet but I'm going to mount a knife switch right on the starter, then off of the knife itself use a piece of brass welding rod that will come up through the floor board with a little knob on it. When you get in the car, press it down with your foot, after getting out of the car reach in and pull it up.

[Barry B./ Ma.]

I believe this set up shown by Mike V. is designed to interrupt the negative terminal, I've been given to understand it would be best to interrupt the positive feed to ground which can be accomplished right near the rear side of the battery by the seat front.

[bill44]

I mounted mine in the fire wall, and used it on the positive cable. I can turn the switch with my foot and it is up out of the way. Also if you ever need to jump start the car you can attach the jumper to the switch on the fire wall instead of having to expose the battery.

[sidhartha]

I've been looking at installing the switch that Mike posted. I plan to put it on the ground side of the system and inside the car, but not sure where to mount it. Some pictures of some of your guy's setup would be great.

[JackA]

Thumb's up to #2

[KGBnut]

Long before I got my car, somebody bored some pretty big holes in the firewall. I think it was for a hot water heater. Anyway, Pop used one of those holes to mount the battery disconnect.

I never would have bored that hole myself, but it made a great mounting point...out of sight and easy reach from the driver's seat.

[Clydes 31 P/U]

sidhartha, This is where I put my cut off, out of the way but I can reach it while seated. No holes drilled in any metal, the switch is a keyed Cat master switch that I had laying around. Clyde

[gridleak]

I got mine installed and it works fine. I don't know if all As have the rectangular hole in the center of the cross member just ahead of the seat but with a couple of large washers the switch will mount there. I used the braided ground strap by spreading the braid until it fit over the switch mounting, then I cut off the original battery connector. The other end went to one terminal of the switch. this provided a ground for the switch. A 15 in.#2 cable from the parts store was just right for the lead to the positive battery terminal.
You will need to extend the switch shaft .
The only modification made to the car are 1/4 hole in floorboard and mat.

[Lona]

Photo of where I mounted my switch. See No. 3 above......Glen

[56servi]

Jerry in Shasta=> Can you give any more info on the relay use used. I like the idea of a latching relay

[Jerry in Shasta]

Do a search on Ebay Motors for ratching relay, I think they made made by Cole-Hesse. You don't have to buy on Ebay, but it will give an idea what you are looking for.

It looks very much like a 1960's starter solenoid. They cost about 50-60 dollars.

JB