Today's Observations

[VeryTangled]

Originally Posted by billybronco1

Seems 1936 therm is an odd ball, hard to find.

[billybronco1]

I'm seeing ones that look like this for the 1936 (bellows type)

[VeryTangled]

Yup, that's similar to the real-deal ones. I don't recognize those prongs around the top. There was another type that had a spiral to open/close the flapper.

The ones in the advert above are modern style stats put into a collar.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by billybronco1

I'm seeing ones that look like this for the 1936 (bellows type)

Unless you are going for a points car I wouldn't use these.

[billybronco1]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Unless you are going for a points car I wouldn't use these.

I'm not looking for points, this car will not win any, I just need two thermostats, anyone have part numbers or know who sells them for a 1936?

[JSeery]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

A 36 is no different than any of the other flatheads up to 48. If it has the same diameter radiator hoses it takes the same thermostats. The in-hose type was posted in thread #21. Or you can use a regular modern style one like shown in post #17. I can post the numbers for them if you are interested in going that way. You just have to decided how you want to secure them, there are several methods. There are several threads on this topic.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ht=thermostats

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ht=thermostats

You were involved in the last thread I posted.

[Ol' Ron]

10/30 is the right oil, flow ,not pressure keeps the bearing cool.
Gramps

[billybronco1]

Got my inferred digital thermometer today, added my second bottle of K-seal as recommended by the manufacture, (two max) as I still have a tiny head gasket leak. As mention before I flushed the system good before adding the second bottle.

Took the car out for about 10 miles, temp gauge stayed at the half way mark the whole trip. When I got home, not sure where to point the inferred thermometer but this is what I got. Top hoses 145 & 150. Water in radiator 170 degrees, exhaust manifold 450.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by billybronco1

Got my inferred digital thermometer today, added my second bottle of K-seal as recommended by the manufacture, (two max) as I still have a tiny head gasket leak. As mention before I flushed the system good before adding the second bottle.

Took the car out for about 10 miles, temp gauge stayed at the half way mark the whole trip. When I got home, not sure where to point the inferred thermometer but this is what I got. Top hoses 145 & 150. Water in radiator 170 degrees, exhaust manifold 450.

I for one have been following this post from the start and I am "STILL" trying to figure out what you are looking for!!!! I "think" your positive that your car "Doesn't" have thermostat's????? IF this is the case THEN what exactly are you looking for the answer to????

[Jacques1960]

...and no obvious contaminants / debris in the first flush other than K-Seal you mention ?

[billybronco1]

Originally Posted by rockfla

I for one have been following this post from the start and I am "STILL" trying to figure out what you are looking for!!!! I "think" your positive that your car "Doesn't" have thermostat's????? IF this is the case THEN what exactly are you looking for the answer to????

I not really looking for anything other that comments from other that know more than me. This car and its issues are all new to me. I have been posting my question and observations and have got lots of friendly feedback and answers, thank you. More than one said to get an inferred thermometer because my car over heated the first time out. Just trying to get a general consensus from others who have been around the flat-heads and have had similar issues. I posted my temps today which personally seem to be okay with or without thermostats. As far as K-seal I heard from others they had success with it, before I heard that I was hesitated to use it. So just a learning curve me, I have had the car for three weeks and have learned a ton already.

[billybronco1]

Originally Posted by Jacques1960

...and no obvious contaminants / debris in the first flush other than K-Seal you mention ?

It was actually very clean. The guy before me use to run water wit "Water Wetter" in the summer and just used antifreeze to store it, so lots of change overs. But I still don't understand why my flush stopped it from over heating when no crud came out. Today I was curios if by adding another bottle of K-seal to the clean radiator would it overheat again - no it didn't after 10 miles

[Jacques1960]

In the words of that famous Ford owner Mr. Spock, “Fascinating”. Hard to imagine how a flush alone would resolve the issue without clearing debris, somehow freeing a (non existent) tstat, etc.

[Jacques1960]

...perhaps the flush did not remove the prospective debris / blockage, but did relocate it to a location where it interferes less with flow ?

[VeryTangled]

I think we've heard reports of a few drives so far.

Getting used to the scary-not helpful temp gauge will take a while for you to get to know the car. Have you spilt more than a gallon of coolant? Once you've done that a couple of times you'll know more about what's up.

Still the head gasket looms from what I gather.

Keep up the driving. Be very careful with the brakes. Keep some water/etc, fuel, flares/reflectors, and tools in the car. And make sure the tires are up to what you're trying.

Keep having fun and enjoy the V-8'ing!

The pic is when I shut down after an interstate highway run in my '36 in Maine from 2012. I assume it's 487 miles in three days touring because this was right before we put 'er on the trailer. My '35 did the similar to me when I got caught in a construction one-way wait in '18. A guy has gotta have a little fluid with him, and expect to check it more frequently than fuel! If it was running down the road with that temp I'd be sucking the seat cover upwards and looking for a place to dive out of traffic.

Adding... Many times when I park, I hop out and open the hood side(s). Helps the car cool, and get ready to go again without... Dare I say it??? Vapor lock.

[Bored&Stroked]

Most importantly (if it was mine), I would get a good modern mechanical temperature gauge - and truthfully, would probably have one for each side of the engine. Then you'll really know the actual temperatures in all driving conditions.

If you're still getting coolant into the engine (potential head gasket leaks), then that is an issue in that water or water vapor/steam will get into the cylinders and that is not a good thing - as it will rust the bores and and open valves if the engine sits.

So, you need to really keep checking this out and if it continues, then as a first step, you'll need to pull the heads, clean the chamber areas (transfer) areas in the block, inspect for cracks, inspect the gaskets (in case you have a blown head gasket), etc..

There are a few different ways that water can get into the chambers - some easy to fix (just gaskets), some will make you want to cry (cracked blocks).

Good luck!

[billybronco1]

I like the idea of an updated set of gauges, oil, temp & amps. Anyone know a good place to buy one or all for the flat head?

Today I did another couple runs about 6-8 miles each every time I get home I check the temps with my new thermometer, seems to be stable at 140 on the hoses 170-175 fluid in radiator. Also seems the K-seal did its thing, no more leak in the questionable cylinder, yeah!

But I noticed a new issue, when I shift from 2nd to 3rd at a good rpm the engine backfires. Sounds like a timing issues, what do you think? I have been reading about timing, now how does the backyard novice mechanic deal with it?

[VeryTangled]

Originally Posted by billybronco1

But I noticed a new issue, when I shift from 2nd to 3rd at a good rpm the engine backfires.

Those can only go thru the carb or the muffler and I'd drive to limit the times it happens.

[JSeery]

A sticking valve is a source for a back-fire.

[estout81]

A backfire as you described can be caused by a exhaust leak between engine and muffler.