Rear Wheel bearing source?

[Certimafied]

Hello, I am in need of a couple of rear wheel bearings. Both of my current bearings have a couple rollers that have formed pits.

In everyones experience what has proved to be a good source for these?

Ive been using Mikes affordable, good prices and close to me so shipping is fast. Their site doesn't describe where they were made though.

Ive just received all my brakes back from Randy Gross I hope to get everything together and not have to tear into it again anytime soon.. within reason!

I guess I should ask too if I should worry about it? Neither my hubs nor my axles look bad where the bearings where riding.

[Model A Canuck]

Try Mac's
www.macsautoparts.com/ford_model_a

[Certimafied]

Thanks for the suggestion, They are actually cheaper than Mikes! Have you had any experience with the quality of these bearings?

[Bob C]

I'd see if Bert's had some good used ones.

[chrs1961815]

Originals rarely go bad and are plentiful. You never know what you will get with repro parts.

[Kevin in NJ]

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Are they originals with spirals?

Define pits?
Do you mean metal is flaking off?

Some minor pits are ok. Rust and flaking surface metal are not ok. Generally speaking an original bearing is going to work fine and last a long time.

Some people have reported issues with newer bearings that do not have the spiral grooves. I have new production bearings and chose to use original bearings. The cages and bear metal surfaces are not made as well as the originals.

I measured a pile of original bearings and found little if any wear in all of them.

[Model A Canuck]

Originally Posted by Certimafied

Thanks for the suggestion, They are actually cheaper than Mikes! Have you had any experience with the quality of these bearings?

No not personally just giving a suggestion.You could also try Berts if you have not already done so

www.modelastore.com

[Certimafied]

Here is one bearing, arguably the "worse". You can see some slight pitting on several rollers and you can see the path/marks on the rollers too. The hub has the same marks that can just barely be felt by finger

[Certimafied]

Here is the second bearing. It has pitting on a couple of rollers only. bigger pits than the other. Its hub looks and feels smooth.

[Certimafied]

Here is the hub with the mark that can be seen and can just barely be felt by finger.

I guess I need to check my axle that matches this hub tomorrow when I've got some light.

My worry is just what you described Kevin. I have had terrible luck with bearings in the past year for any make of vehicle. I'd prefer to do any job once if I can help it!

I may give Berts a try thanks for the suggestion.

[51504bat]

Originally Posted by Certimafied

Thanks for the suggestion, They are actually cheaper than Mikes! Have you had any experience with the quality of these bearings?

Did you factor in the cost of shipping for Mac's vs. Mike's? I'd use Mac's as a last resort but that's JMO.

[Certimafied]

No 51504bat I haven't factored in shipping yet. They will probably work out to about the same price. I know mikes will get the parts to me within a few days.

I would probably agree with you on Mac's, I don't like the ecklers group in general from past experiences. But thats neither here nor there!

[updraught]

Originally Posted by Model A Canuck

Try Mac's
www.macsautoparts.com/ford_model_a

Looks like it might fit a Russian Model A from the 30's.
https://www.macsautoparts.com/model-...8-26239-1.html

[dmaxweb]

Call Steve at Berts.

[dennis lumbert]

In my experience with reproduction wheel bearings I have found the end cages to be by heat treated and to soft.This allows the rollers to wear the cage get free,also metal worn from the cage permeates the grease and starts wearing the hub and axle races.This happened in about 1000 mile an my car.
If you buy new bearings at least check the end cages buy running a file over them.If the file removes metal and doesn’t just bounce over them they are to soft and will wear out rapidly. Damage from poorly made wheel bearings can get expensive.Just trying to save someone from experiencing what happens to me . Dennis

[Oldcarbearings]

FWIW&INHO&HO (honest&humble ) opinion,
Speaking from purely a bearing company perspective,
Whenever we get calls&enquiries for these bearings,
UNLESS we can be guaranteed the brands are USA or EURO/UK Made,
We stay away &are NOT interested in buying them.WHY?,
Because at one point/stage we're buying them in BOWER brand ,
They're made in the USA (Mexico),
THEN they (FM) switched to China,
NOW (here in Australia) BOWER/FM are NO longer making ANY journal wound rollers,
I DON'T know if that applies to RBC or other USA bearing companies,
Both euro&uk bearing manufactuers stopped making these kind/type of wound journal roller bearings decades ago.One of your Australian members Arnold Chivers,
Has come up with a metric new modern conversion for these wound journal bearings,
I'd strongly advise ANYONE to go this route,
Regards&thanks,
Adrian.

[gdmn852]

Hello,there was a previous post on problems with rear bearings, also a post about using long fiber grease made by Penrite that is meant for drum brakes ,if I can find my can will take a picture of it tomorrow.

[Benson]

I remember that long fiber grease from the 50's. Sears Roebuck and Wards sold it in large cans. I think I still have 1/2 a can somewhere in the garage.

[Kevin in NJ]

That looks like acid etch pits, but honestly I cant tell for sure. You do not seem to have a rust problem.

They are a low speed bearing and what you have might take thousands of miles to have a problem if properly lubricated. Most people would never drive enough for it to be a factor. They dont just fail and leave you some place, they would just start getting noisey telling you to do something.

The hub bearing surface wears towards the bottom as the weight causes the axle end to bend up. You need good tools to measure it. One option if you are really worried is the bearing liner kit and later bearings.

Honestly I would just lube it up good with wheel bearing grease, pack it well and go with it. I would only be more concerned if you were building to run thousands of miles a year at highway speeds. Even then what you have is likely to be fine.

Have you measured the bearing surface on the axle end? They can be very worn on the bottom. This will cause the hub to move up some messing with your brakes.

I would worry way more about your brake conditions. Are you brakes with cast drums, centered with shoes sized to the drum? Do you have all new known good parts in them?

[Russ/40]

Well Kevin, while sitting here thinking of responding, you said just what I was thinking. Those bearings and hubs are good for a very long time. Happy I didn't do all that typing now. Your spot on.