Replace crankshaft pulley ??

[DRG-ler]

Hello guys i have a new problem ...
While removing a friend's water cooler, we noticed that a piece of the crankshaft pulley had broken out. This must now be replaced and it should be delivered in the next few days.

What I am interested in now is having problems when exchanging ideas? Does the fastening screw have a normal right-hand thread? How much torque does this have to be reattached? Do you get the pulley removed at all when the motor is installed, or do you have to lift the motor?
It is an original 1931 Tudor four-cylinder.
As I said, the cooler is still disassembled ...

Written with Google Translator.

Greetings from Berlin
Andy

[john charlton]

You must lift the front of the engine to change the pulley so it clears the front chassis cross member . You MUST remove one bolt each side at the rear motor mount where the flywheel housing bolts to the motor mount .This allows the engine to tilt when you jack up the front of the engine if you do not do this you will most likely crack the flywheel housing . The starting handle dog is normal right handed and sometimes is very tight so I hit the wrench with a heavy wooden mallet and usually works for me .

John in sunny locked down Suffolk County England .

PS Pulleys are available from all vendors Belcher Engineering in UK have them 50% off right now ,phone them check them on Google .

John in Suffolk County England .

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Check the condition of the ratchet nut teeth (for the hand crank) that is used to mount the pulley. If teeth are worn, now is the time to replace it.

[rocket1]

There is a 2 piece pulley and a 1 piece pulley,just informing you.

[Purdy Swoft]

With a long box end wrench on the ratchet nut on one end and the other end against the crossmember , the starter can be used as the power source to loosen and remove the ratchet nut . I have always preferred the two piece crankshaft pulley .

[Synchro909]

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I'll repeat what I posted in another thread about this recently because it is important. Before you lift the front of the engine, undo the bolts in the rear engine mounts (best to remove them). Failure to do so is likely to result in a cracked flywheel housing.

[DRG-ler]

A big thank you to everyone.
We will follow the tips.
I cannot say which pulley has now been ordered. A friend did that.

Can anyone tell me how much torque the screw has to be tightened again?

Greetings from Berlin

Andy

[rocket1]

Originally Posted by DRG-ler

A big thank you to everyone.
We will follow the tips.
I cannot say which pulley has now been ordered. A friend did that.

Can anyone tell me how much torque the screw has to be tightened again?

Greetings from Berlin

Andy

80 foot lbs.

[Ruth]

You don't have to, but since you have the 'cooler' already out, I remove the front spring u-bolts also to give more room to slide the pulley off.

[DRG-ler]

I'll see if lifting the engine is enough. If not, I can still loosen the screws.

Thank you very much.

[Ruth]

Watch the throttle linkage bracket bolted to the back of the engine when you lift. It will hit the firewall...

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by DRG-ler

I'll see if lifting the engine is enough. If not, I can still loosen the screws.

Thank you very much.

I'm right in the middle of a pulley replacement myself (separate thread). Assuming you have a one-piece pulley, you can lift the engine enough without removing the front spring U-bolts but it puts a lot of strain on things, and like was noted elsewhere, the throttle linkage is just the first thing to get in the way. Take 20 minutes and four new cotter pins and pull the U-bolts and hand crank housing, you'll be much happier.


JayJay

[DRG-ler]

Thanks for the tip!