The Ford Barn

PC/SR · 10-11-2013, 11:28 PM

I tried Marco's electrolytic rust removal method and it works great.
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/elec...cderusting.htm

The carbon rods are $12 for 5 from McMaster Carr. I drilled a hole in the end and clipped on an alligator clip and ran bailing wire to a nail on a strip of wood across the top of a plastic bucket. Also ran bailing wire from the work piece to a nail on the wood, and hooked up a battery charger to each, positive to the rod, negative to the workpiece. Watch out, some nails are coated and will not conduct electricity, even if they look shiny. Test continuity. Started out on 12 volts, 2 amps, but later changed to 12 volts, 10 amps. Made more bubbles and probably worked faster. The residue washed off with soap and water in a bucket and a scrub brush.

The local Safeway store had Arm and Hammer products labeled Activated Bi-Carbonate of Soda (not washing soda as shown on Marco's page) in the laundry soap section, but look at the ingredients label and it is Sodium Carbonate. (Hey, its marketing.)

The great part of this method is that it will get into places that a wire brush won't, but clean up the workpiece first as much as possible anyway to save time. It's non-toxic and can be disposed of down the drain. And you can use the stuff in the laundry too. Maybe its me, but it seemed to get out some grease stains in old T shirts that the boss around here won't let me put in the regular wash.

Thanks Marco.

Tom Wesenberg · 10-12-2013, 12:02 AM

I know you meant Vince Falter, and I have also done electrolytic rust removal, but used old steel rods. It does a good job, and like you said, it gets deep into rust pits to remove all the rust. I rinsed my very rusty rim in hot water then gave it a very light sandblasting and primer paint. Sure beat using the sandblast cabinet to remove the thick rust.

PC/SR · 10-12-2013, 12:09 AM

Yes, thanks Tom, and my apologies to Vince and Marco.

Tom Cavallaro · 10-12-2013, 08:32 AM

This is how I cleaned my gas tank without removing it from the car! It worked better than any other process I tried, and I tried quite a few for over 3 months, but the electrolysis worked in one day.

goodoldvic · 10-12-2013, 12:39 PM

Tom, thanx THAT is a freakin' great idea. Did you drain/dry it then use a vacuum to suck out the dried rust?

aojo · 10-12-2013, 02:57 PM

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We use rebar and a battery charger to clean old tools and it really works well to remove rust. I am curious as to how you attached the wire leads to clean the gas tank?

Tom Cavallaro · 10-12-2013, 05:34 PM

goodoldvic, yes. I spent about 5 hrs on it and kept a hose trickling in at the same time to keep the tank filled, and to keep the foam off the paint.
I also used a 200 amp charger...LOL. When I was all done took the petcock out altogether and vacuumed all the rust out. I was surprised as to how much was in there. I still have a filter on the line between the bowl and carb but haven't changed it in over a year. I still see some rust on the bottom of the bowl but it's like toothpaste it's so fine.

Tom Cavallaro · 10-12-2013, 05:40 PM

For the hookup...I put the negative on the petcock, and the positive on the rod and used a piece of plastic to insulate the rod from the tank. I used the arm and hammer and two table spoons of salt for the liquid and filled it up with water. The bubbles that are made coming out is Hydrogen gas so make sure you are well ventilated.

10-11-2013, 11:28 PM	#1
PC/SR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santa Rosa, CA Posts: 1,279	Electrolytic Rust Removal I tried Marco's electrolytic rust removal method and it works great. http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/elec...cderusting.htm The carbon rods are $12 for 5 from McMaster Carr. I drilled a hole in the end and clipped on an alligator clip and ran bailing wire to a nail on a strip of wood across the top of a plastic bucket. Also ran bailing wire from the work piece to a nail on the wood, and hooked up a battery charger to each, positive to the rod, negative to the workpiece. Watch out, some nails are coated and will not conduct electricity, even if they look shiny. Test continuity. Started out on 12 volts, 2 amps, but later changed to 12 volts, 10 amps. Made more bubbles and probably worked faster. The residue washed off with soap and water in a bucket and a scrub brush. The local Safeway store had Arm and Hammer products labeled Activated Bi-Carbonate of Soda (not washing soda as shown on Marco's page) in the laundry soap section, but look at the ingredients label and it is Sodium Carbonate. (Hey, its marketing.) The great part of this method is that it will get into places that a wire brush won't, but clean up the workpiece first as much as possible anyway to save time. It's non-toxic and can be disposed of down the drain. And you can use the stuff in the laundry too. Maybe its me, but it seemed to get out some grease stains in old T shirts that the boss around here won't let me put in the regular wash. Thanks Marco.

10-12-2013, 12:02 AM	#2
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Electrolytic Rust Removal I know you meant Vince Falter, and I have also done electrolytic rust removal, but used old steel rods. It does a good job, and like you said, it gets deep into rust pits to remove all the rust. I rinsed my very rusty rim in hot water then gave it a very light sandblasting and primer paint. Sure beat using the sandblast cabinet to remove the thick rust.

10-12-2013, 12:09 AM	#3
PC/SR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santa Rosa, CA Posts: 1,279	Re: Electrolytic Rust Removal Yes, thanks Tom, and my apologies to Vince and Marco.

10-12-2013, 08:32 AM	#4
Tom Cavallaro Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Barrington, NJ Posts: 280	Re: Electrolytic Rust Removal This is how I cleaned my gas tank without removing it from the car! It worked better than any other process I tried, and I tried quite a few for over 3 months, but the electrolysis worked in one day. __________________ I work very hard to avoid all and any mistakes. I thought I made a mistake once, but I was wrong.

10-12-2013, 12:39 PM	#5
goodoldvic Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: New Jersey shore Posts: 257	Re: Electrolytic Rust Removal Tom, thanx THAT is a freakin' great idea. Did you drain/dry it then use a vacuum to suck out the dried rust?

10-12-2013, 02:57 PM	#6
aojo Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 41	Re: Electrolytic Rust Removal Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) We use rebar and a battery charger to clean old tools and it really works well to remove rust. I am curious as to how you attached the wire leads to clean the gas tank?

10-12-2013, 05:34 PM	#7
Tom Cavallaro Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Barrington, NJ Posts: 280	Re: Electrolytic Rust Removal goodoldvic, yes. I spent about 5 hrs on it and kept a hose trickling in at the same time to keep the tank filled, and to keep the foam off the paint. I also used a 200 amp charger...LOL. When I was all done took the petcock out altogether and vacuumed all the rust out. I was surprised as to how much was in there. I still have a filter on the line between the bowl and carb but haven't changed it in over a year. I still see some rust on the bottom of the bowl but it's like toothpaste it's so fine. __________________ I work very hard to avoid all and any mistakes. I thought I made a mistake once, but I was wrong.

10-12-2013, 05:40 PM	#8
Tom Cavallaro Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Barrington, NJ Posts: 280	Re: Electrolytic Rust Removal For the hookup...I put the negative on the petcock, and the positive on the rod and used a piece of plastic to insulate the rod from the tank. I used the arm and hammer and two table spoons of salt for the liquid and filled it up with water. The bubbles that are made coming out is Hydrogen gas so make sure you are well ventilated. __________________ I work very hard to avoid all and any mistakes. I thought I made a mistake once, but I was wrong.